Right now I have a dorm fridge in there, it worked fine last summer, but we've got some longer trips planned with a family of 6, well we need more space.
We do plan on putting that mini fridge in a bay for cold drinks and meats for grilling to avoid constant trips inside. That's not the issue, just some context.
I found a free fridge on craigslist, this fridge. https://www.frigidaire.com/Kitchen-Appliances/Refrigerators/Top-Freezer-Refrigerator/FFTR1821QS/ (https://www.frigidaire.com/Kitchen-Appliances/Refrigerators/Top-Freezer-Refrigerator/FFTR1821QS/)
They said the freezer didn't work, turns out the coils where coated in dust, nothing an air compressor couldn't fix. It's been running in my office here for a week pulling .7kw / day , and making great ice. Sound great, except.... it's 30" wide on every side, no way that is getting in through the door. If I take the doors off it's 28.5" wide on one side, my stock windows are 29.5 inches high, with 3-4 guys I think we can get it in there.
But should I?
I'm waffling on if I should put something quite this big. Would a 25 - 28" wide fridge work just as well but much easer to manage in and out if need be. Additionally I have 1900 watts of solar on the roof, so I should have plenty of power, but I'd like to not be silly and over do it with size and power usage.
I just replaced the fridge in mine a few months ago. We took off the hand rail and anything that would be in the way to bring it thru the door. Also, I got a counter depth fridge where all the guts are on the bottom so it's not as deep as regular fridges.
As far as taking it through the windows. Others in here can confirm but I was told that once you break the seal of the window, it costs a lot for replacement seals. I'm not sure the year of your bus but mine is a 74 MCI and finding seals are a little harder and $$$ to replace so I told the guy doing the fridge, do NOT take a window out.
I found one that's full size. Course it's not the biggest full size but it's plenty big.
By window I mean just opening the window fully open (flips up), or just removing the pins and pulling out the window frame. The outer frame remains in tact, I measured on the inside.
ahh okay,
here's the one I got
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-20-6-cu-ft-Counter-Depth-Side-by-Side-Refrigerator-with-Ice-Maker-Monochromatic-stainless-steel/50218607 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-20-6-cu-ft-Counter-Depth-Side-by-Side-Refrigerator-with-Ice-Maker-Monochromatic-stainless-steel/50218607)
I don't know how much room you have inside but I don't have slideouts and the there isn't a lot of room in the kitches so I had to get "counter depth" plus that was the style of the one that I was replacing so I didn't want to change anything. I was able to get it on sale too.
And you got it through the door? Huh.
I still have the Bus style door, not and RV door, so mine does not open fully as well.
I'm just wondering if it's worth it to go through all this trouble, or just find something a tick smaller.
refrigerators have been successfully loaded through a removed windshield.
Good excuse to get fresh windshield rubber and call it a preventive maintenance project?
happy coaching!
buswarrior
I actually had the window replaced with new gaskets last year.... Doh!
Quote from: neoneddy on February 09, 2018, 09:55:26 AM
And you got it through the door? Huh.
I still have the Bus style door, not and RV door, so mine does not open fully as well.
I'm just wondering if it's worth it to go through all this trouble, or just find something a tick smaller.
Yep I have the bus style door as well. When it's fully open, it's not in the way at all. Had to remove the hand rail and I have a flap that lays over the steps when I'm driving so the passenger can rest feet on it instead of dangling above the steps. That had to be removed too. I don't know what style bus you have so I'm not sure what your dimensions are. I know the fridge door had to be removed. I'm not sure about the hinges....possibly they removed that too.
I would vote for the largest frig you can fit through the door or open window once its door has been removed. You can sell the one you got for free.
We had to remove the passenger/co-pilot seat but got our couch in through the door of our 5A. Fridge was smaller than that. :)
Since the window gaskets are new, have a glass company remove window and reinstall after refrigerator is inside. Can't cost that much. That way, if they break it, it is on them. If after refrigerator is inside, you decide you don't want to use it, you can remove it with a sawsall.
I got news for you,, a glass company will NOT except the risk for breakage.. They will "quote" you $500.00 for R&R and at the end charge you for the actual time used to R&R at their normal rate. ( Any breakage will be on you).>>>Dan
I got news for you,, a glass company will NOT except the risk for breakage.. They will "quote" you $500.00 for R&R and at the end charge you for the actual time used to R&R at their normal rate. ( Any breakage will be on you).>>>Dan
With new rubbers, glass should come out easily. Just have guy who installed the glass with new seals do it then. At least, he'll have done it before successfully.
Hold on there guys, let's not make something simple overly complicated.
I don't want to put a big side by side in, this isn't our full-time home and like I said we'll keep the dorm fridge in the basement bay. I will stick with my 30" wide 18 cu ft , some good points made and the local used appliance place won't take mine as a trade on a smaller one , which they don't have anyway.
I've got a few volunteers ready who would be willing to help me get this in through the side window. It's only 68" tall, so plenty of room to put it in the long way.
It will mean remaking a cabinet and moving a wall, but better to do it right than compromise on this I think.
Thanks for the insight fellas.
Hello: I put my full size in through the side window that opens (Prevost) blanket on window ledge, couple of guys, went right in. I allowed it to set on the floor 24 hours (to re-settle Freon) before plugging in. No problems. Also have small fridge and ice maker in bay to reduce kitchen traffic when entertaining. Gerry H
A few years back, the 10 cubic foot apartment size refrigerator was the rage. That's what I use, and it is much better than the RV refer. Mine draws 1.5 amps, and is plenty big for our needs. A Sanyo stainless steel model.
Mine went through the side glass. Worked just fine. Full size house fridge. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180211/852d60a34fe69859a5d7ce614ae41d7c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180211/0d6c6ea4de37c38ca819a4e990c0e6d0.jpg)
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Check out Summit refrigerators. They make 24" wide, tall refrigerators. Only thing-they need to be vented from the back since the radiator is typically in the back.
I use the 9.0cu/ft NovaKool that is 12v/120. Pulls 5.5amps on 12v-runs about 40% of the time so about 2amp overall draw. I like it since the compressor is in the front and vents out the bottom. Very quiet (but not cheap). Good Luck, TomC
Quote from: TomC on February 11, 2018, 07:14:16 AMCheck out Summit refrigerators. They make 24" wide, tall refrigerators. Only thing-they need to be vented from the back since the radiator is typically in the back.
I use the 9.0cu/ft NovaKool that is 12v/120. Pulls 5.5amps on 12v-runs about 40% of the time so about 2amp overall draw. I like it since the compressor is in the front and vents out the bottom. Very quiet (but not cheap). Good Luck, TomC
Me too. Love it. (mine is about 8.5 cu ft, but similar otherwise).
Quote from: Scott & Heather on February 10, 2018, 06:46:50 PM
Mine went through the side glass. Worked just fine. Full size house fridge. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180211/852d60a34fe69859a5d7ce614ae41d7c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180211/0d6c6ea4de37c38ca819a4e990c0e6d0.jpg)
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I really like your tile and counter tops!!
Thanks!!
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