I wanted to grease, clean, and inspect brakes on the bus. Putting the tire back on I noticed this center cap and around the painted over glass reads oil level. So I scraped it off and pulled the cap. The level looks to be close to the bottom, aka full. I wanted to share with others my findings of the things we don't know exist, or at least I didn't. I don't know how typical this is on skoolies but I'm sure MCI made it standard on front wheels.
My question is: what oil goes here? 90w diff? IDK
Excellent discovery!
Yes, oil for gears and bearings goes in there.
The religious debate rages whether oil, grease, synthetic, semi-synthetic or plain dino sourced lube.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
My personal preference is Lucas hub oil because it is least likely to leak out past the seal and get itself smeared all over your brake drums. As Ewen has already pointed out there are other options.
Lucas Hub oil also
Lucas :)>>>D
Lucas then, thanks for the majority opinion!
I read that the manual states, or MCI suggests 100k hub oil changes. The oil in the hub looked black for sure. I'm going to pick up some Lucas and a syringe and keep that on my back burner list. ;D
Thanks again,
Jay
The more often the better. Just remove the whole steel cover and let drain for a while. If you want to be neat, there are special catch pans you can buy that fit below the hub. Or let her rip and clean up after. It takes quite a while to refill, because the Lucas Hub oil is quite thick and tacky, and takes some time to spread into the hub through the bearings.
JC
Quote from: lostagain on February 05, 2018, 08:39:46 AM...... It takes quite a while to refill, because the Lucas Hub oil is quite thick and tacky, and takes some time to spread into the hub through the bearings.
JC
Pay close attention to JC's advice and remember to check them again after or during your first run because the Lucas oil will continue to work through the bearings as it warms up in use.
Your Stemco hub cap should have a drain plug toward the outside end if you don't want to remove the whole cap ( Removing it will require a new gasket)>>>Dan
Most of us that drive these coaches know that these exist...but glad you found out before your hubs went dry.
And I for one have been slowly having mine converted to grease because I hate the oil filled hubs. I just have the two steers to finish and I'm done with oiled hubs for good.
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Quote from: Scott & Heather on February 05, 2018, 03:34:36 PM
Most of us that drive these coaches know that these exist...but glad you found out before your hubs went dry.
And I for one have been slowly having mine converted to grease because I hate the oil filled hubs. I just have the two steers to finish and I'm done with oiled hubs for good.
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how are you keeping the diff oil from the hubs...
My drive axle is still oil because of the diff. But my tags are grease now and the steers will be done soon.
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Quote from: Scott & Heather on February 05, 2018, 07:21:57 PM
My drive axle is still oil because of the diff. But my tags are grease now and the steers will be done soon.
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clarity,
got it :)
I just did this project on my MC12, the windows on mine were very brittle with age.
The replacement for my hubs were https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/stemco-359-5999/hub-cap-window-kit-p-w86-3595999 (https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/stemco-359-5999/hub-cap-window-kit-p-w86-3595999)
I pulled off the hub caps and cleaned it out and then replaced with lucas hub oil.
Before
(https://i.imgur.com/BwcJvVNh.jpg)
After
(https://i.imgur.com/UFJtHTth.jpg)
jcdillin, thanks for the link and suggestion. As you can see one side is the stemco brand with the flat window and the other is, what I presume, must be original or at least older aftermarket hub cap.
Because you got me looking at options, I plan to just buy two new hub caps with the flat windows and the drain bolt for ease of changing for next time!
I will have to measure the bolt pattern to confirm the hub cap is as follows:
https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/stemco-348-4009/cap-hub-p-w86-3484009 (https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/stemco-348-4009/cap-hub-p-w86-3484009)
With a quick search I found a few online, including Amazon. I like Amazon given the fast shipping, free shipping, and excellent no questions return policy!
http://www.wolfetruckparts.com/CAP-HUB-W86-3484009-WTP-41-p/3484009-wtp-41.htm (http://www.wolfetruckparts.com/CAP-HUB-W86-3484009-WTP-41-p/3484009-wtp-41.htm)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002D49WBY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B002D49WBY&pd_rd_wg=r6iFS&pd_rd_r=F9R038TGN3NV2ZM5CKCF&pd_rd_w=mNUmz (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002D49WBY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B002D49WBY&pd_rd_wg=r6iFS&pd_rd_r=F9R038TGN3NV2ZM5CKCF&pd_rd_w=mNUmz)
I'll update with a post install picture for those interested.
Jay
Virtually all trucks have oil bearings on the front axle. Some of the older buses had an inner seal to keep the gear oil out of the outer ends of the rear axle to run grease on the bearings. When I bought my bus, I had all bearings and seals on the axles changed to oil. Being an old truck driver, I knew what neglect on greased bearings can do.
The only greased bearings I see now are on some trailers-and that's using synthetic grease. Good Luck, TomC
Use a good synthetic grease on bearings and you don't need to worry about bearing neglect. When oil seals leak, they coat everything, including contaminating brake lining and increase stopping distance, especially on two axle coaches. A major mess to clean up everything from all the oil. Btdt too often in past on vehicles. Some love oil seals. I don't.
The hub caps you linked look like standard trailer axle caps (I could be wrong, my eye sight isn't as good anymore) make sure you have the correct one. I highly doubt you will find the one you need on Ebay. I am not sure they sell enough of those one for a company for flog them.
www.stemco.com/f/qbin/Hub_Caps_Literature.pdf (http://www.stemco.com/f/qbin/Hub_Caps_Literature.pdf) for correct cap selection.
Ditto what Jim said. Those aren't the right stemco covers you have on there
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