A friend queried whether it was possible to add a turbo to my 6v92 given the fact that it doesn't do so hot on climbs, even before I've done the conversion. Is this advised? What kinds of costs should I be expecting (initial install and then long-term costs for increased fuel consumption, upkeep, etc)?
It sure would be nice to get more than 30mph (or less once I'm fully loaded) up the average pass. I don't mind the time it takes so much as the long tail in the side-view mirror. It kills me to cut fellow drivers' speeds in half in these single-lane canyons.
Are you sure you don't have a turbo already? It would be a rare occurrence if you didn't.
Send a picture of the engine.
6-92 usely came with a turbo ????
The 8v71 N/A was a option in the 1983 MCI 9 could be he has a 8v71
If that's a 6v92, there's supposed to be a turbo on it already.
Evaluate what you have before worrying about hot rodding. Is what you have working properly?
My MC8 with 8V71 stock 270 HP, climbs Fancy Gap in VA at 45 mph. An MCI renaissance with 400 HP S60 climbs the same slope at 50 mph.
Whoopity do? You are going to be slow, no matter what drive-train. Get used to it, and stay right when you can.
The other drivers can learn some patience.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
We are in 2018 now. Factors change with time and past options may lose their benefits. Today, a mid 90's Series 60/BT500 can be had for between 10k and 15k. Buying right will fetch you a solid 4 stroke electronic controlled motor, made to run far more miles than the older generations. Unless you want an older style coach, do the math and you may find going 4 stroke out of the gate is a more sound decision over the long haul.
I would never buy a computer engine bus. And I doubt I'll ever wear my mechanical 6V92TA out. For a business regulated by the EPA it makes sense, but that ain't me.
Here's a snap of my engine:
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsites.sora.do%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2018%2F02%2FIMG_8330-e1517694304741.jpg&hash=c1484d7bf4da7a8e5c1bd6f7917536e0c5d220fd)
It is a 71N. Count the number of exhaust ports on either side of the engine. For all we know it could be a 6V71 which is hopelessly gutless.
Quote from: windtrader on February 03, 2018, 11:09:57 AM
We are in 2018 now. Factors change with time and past options may lose their benefits. Today, a mid 90's Series 60/BT500 can be had for between 10k and 15k. Buying right will fetch you a solid 4 stroke electronic controlled motor, made to run far more miles than the older generations. Unless you want an older style coach, do the math and you may find going 4 stroke out of the gate is a more sound decision over the long haul.
only an possible if you have a suitable differential/gear train designed to be compatible...highly doubt that's an easy option...
It is a 8v71N blow up the cam pulley and you can read it
Quote from: eagle19952 on February 03, 2018, 02:04:33 PM
only an possible if you have a suitable differential/gear train designed to be compatible...highly doubt that's an easy option...
My suggestion is to get a coach with a 4 stroke and build on that, not try in anyway to transplant it.
The 871 is a great engine but pretty gutless. If performance is a primary criteria for you that is the wrong power plant. Either re power or get a different coach. We had an 871 powered coach for 65,000 miles and it was just fine. But not fast. We now have a 10 liter Cat powering a 42,000 lb country coach and the difference is incredible.
There's no replacement for displacement.
Thanks guys. Reading up on this thread (below) as I try to learn more about what to expect from this engine, as well as options for improving performance (if we decide to go that route):
http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=9113.0 (http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=9113.0)
8v71...reliable. Gutless. Boring.
Like driving an old Toyota Camry.
Good luck
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
As I've stated many times before, turboing an 8V-71 really wakes it up. The standard N55 injector 8V-71 put out 270hp and 675lb/ft torque. N60 injectors were 290hp and 740lb/ft torque. N65 injectors were 308hp and 800lb/ft torque. My turboed 8V-71 with 7G75 injectors is 375hp and 1125lb/ft torque. If you build the 8V-71 to a maximum turbo engine, 400hp and 1200lb/ft torque with 7G80 injectors can by had. Almost twice the torque of N55 engine. Good Luck, TomC
Quote from: TomC on February 04, 2018, 06:56:21 AM
As I've stated many times before, turboing an 8V-71 really wakes it up. The standard N55 injector 8V-71 put out 270hp and 675lb/ft torque. N60 injectors were 290hp and 740lb/ft torque. N65 injectors were 308hp and 800lb/ft torque. My turboed 8V-71 with 7G75 injectors is 375hp and 1125lb/ft torque. If you build the 8V-71 to a maximum turbo engine, 400hp and 1200lb/ft torque with 7G80 injectors can by had. Almost twice the torque of N55 engine. Good Luck, TomC
Thanks Tom. I see you've contributed a lot to the thread I posted above. Is there a relatively easy way for me to see what my current engine is rated at so I can get an estimate on what I would be paying to upgrade for increased power and efficiency? I am not sure we
need to get better power out of this engine, but I would definitely like to know my options.
Quote from: skytripping on February 04, 2018, 12:31:08 PM
Is there a relatively easy way for me to see what my current engine is rated at
start by pulling the easy valve cover and see what tag is on the injector yellow tag is n70 and n65 is a brown tag...iirc.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/iFYAAOSwTuJYtXx4/s-l225.jpg) (https://dieselpro.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/d/e/detroit_diesel_injector_rebuilt_pro75_n75_inyector_reconstruido.jpg)
Quote from: Scott & Heather on February 04, 2018, 04:33:42 AM
8v71...reliable. Gutless. Boring.
Like driving an old Toyota Camry.
Good luck
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I have a 6v92 as well and she don't like hills either. Man if I don't see the hill early in order to pick up speed, I pay for it. What I tell everyone is she's not fast but she's steady.
Big word is reliable. The ones with jacked horsepower requires a constant eye on engine temperature. Even spending the money on turboing isn't going to make great improvements. Probably 5 to 10 mph on medium mountain grade. Keep in mind how much added weight makes a difference during the conversion empty or full liquid tanks, toters, trailers etc.