Our 4108a has all its factory windows. All are non-opening except for one slider in front and one on opposite corner in the back.
Any one ever add screens to the factory sliding windows on an old GM?
With the budget allows Peninsula Windows are the plan. For now though, we just want to sleep without mosquitoes.
Thanks.
Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108A-125 (Current bus)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (totalled Sept 2017)
Located in beautiful Wisconsin
KD9GRB
Richard,
I haven't done it yet on my 4905, but I think it was Fast Fred who told me about this trick.
You can swing the entire window out after releasing the "emergency escape", and then cover the entire window with a single screen. wrap it around to the back side of the frame and glue it fast to the aluminum frame. You can then slide both the front and back open for air. On my windows, I moved the stop so they open further than factory. I think I actually lost the stops for a few.
Steve
Here's some photos of screen inserts made for old style 1953 GM 4104. Two different patterns one for front slider one for rear slider - fit all large sliders. Nylon screen sandwiched & glued into two pieces or 1/8" hardboard (Masonite) & cut to shape to fit into large perimeter frame then slider closes to screen insert. These were homemade 30 years ago & have served us well - no bugs!
Quote from: dtcerrato on October 21, 2017, 10:50:14 PM
Here's some photos of screen inserts made for old style 1953 GM 4104. Two different patterns one for front slider one for rear slider - fit all large sliders. Nylon screen sandwiched & glued into two pieces or 1/8" hardboard (Masonite) & cut to shape to fit into large perimeter frame then slider closes to screen insert. These were homemade 30 years ago & have served us well - no bugs!
Dan & Sandy - I love the simplicity of this idea. I've got a LASER engraver that can cut 1/8 board, so once I've got the pattern made for the outline it would be easy to cut out the shapes. This will be one of my winter projects, I hope.
I did essentially the same thing as Dan for my MCI sliding window, just a simple frame and screen attached to it. Removed the safety stops so it can open farther.
We have used homemade screens that Velcro to the window frame for many years. They work fine, but I like yours better.
Same as Lin and thank you. We just slid open the windows, (they went up and down) and used Velcro all around outside the window frame.
Then used colored off white bug netting. Mosquito proof. The "curtains" were made fairly loose around the window frames. Easy to make up.
But not so loose they blew around when the bus was rolling down the road. The curtains acted as a gage as to how well the radiator was sucking.
Seems there was a suction partial pressure effect sucking inwards around that big left front mounted radiator. The curtains showed it. A big fan.
Crown Supercoach. Long ago.
Couple of things I ought to mention is when making the screen frames, use "tempered" (darker & harder) hardboard (Masonite). Seal the internal sandwiched (screen) side of the frames with a varnish or laquer prior to glueing the screen into the sandwiched frame. The outside perimeter of the frame should be belt sanded until it fits into the window track easily prior to sealing it. We used aluminum paint on the outside frames to match the aluminum track in sits in. Sealing the frame up good keeps it's integrity over time from the elements.
I have a couple of Peninsula Windows for screens so I don't need to "build" screens but I sure like your idea of sandwiched layers to support screens and build up the thickness you need to fit into the rails -- also the way you secure the screens and seal the hardboard is very good. Good ideas, and nice work.
Since I've got the LASER machine to cut the shapes, I'm thinking of using 3/16 plexi for the layers. It would be easy to bond them together with the screen held in between. I can make practice runs with cardboard until I get the shape just right, and then cut the plexi.
Plexi would be great & impervious to wicking any moisture but at 3/16" it may be too wide for the main window track (at least on the 4104) thus why I mentioned the need to belt sand the screen frame.