This is going to be the first winter we've stored a bus, and I want to get a little advice regarding covers. Years ago when I had classic cars, there was always a debate as to whether or not the covers helped protect or caused more damage by trapping moisture and rubbing on the finish. To me it seems that the sun does more damage than anything else, so if to block the UV rays and nothing else seems like a reason to cover. Added water repellent qualities wouldn't hurt either, as one never knows when a new leak will pop up. Nothing like a winter of snow melting on a vehicle roof to help find every leak possible.
Unfortunately we have no options for indoor storage. Lots of space on the gravel lot behind our barn, and that's about it. I know that parking on gravel is not ideal, but right now that's what we're working with. I park on a concrete slab during the warm months, but it's pretty close to where the plow runs through to clear the drive in the winter. It would concern me to park it that close to the plow's path.
Bus is a 4108a with a length of 35 feet. Height is 11 feet plus a tad for where the vents are. No roof a/c or large vent covers yet. Width is 96" plus a few for mirrors.
I've explored Amazon and the general online sources and most of what I see is aimed at S&S class A, not bus conversions.
So, anyone using a cover that has a recommendation?
Richard
I just found a place to "dry" store my bus: on gravel and no cover, same as you. I was wondering if it makes sense to get some 2x12 boards and roll the bus up onto them, keeping the tires off the gravel/dirt/mud that might form. For cover, I was thinking about just getting some large tarps at HF then roping and weighing down them down with some sandbags. I'm planning on using the bus fairly often so not worried about damage caused by the plastic touching the bus. Lastly, have not decided what to do to cover the tires.
Plastic tarps is actually the one thing that I assumed was a no go. Too much moisture trapped underneath with no where for it to go. To me that seems like a recipe for metal rot.
Some of the newer fabrics promise to shed actual water (rain/snow) but to allow the moisture vapors to escape from underneath. Problem for me is that I have no experience with these things and don't know the good covers from the ones that are all promise and no performance.
Richard
Yeah, if I was planning on keeping the coach stored for some months during the wet season, I'd do more searching into some better options. I'm not even certain I'll cover it if it's used every few weeks to once a month. I'll be visiting often once it starts raining just to make sure there isn't any leaking as this the first winter I've owned it. On second thought, it'd better more prudent to hose it down now to check for leaks and seal them up while the weather is still nice. Oh well.
I know it may be a little spendy, but I put up a carport awning big enough to park the motorhome under. I added siding & a concrete floor as funds allowed.
The convenience is so nice ! 8)
Minimum size is 5 ft wider & longer than your coach. 10 ft + is better. ;D
Quote from: windtrader on October 10, 2017, 03:54:42 PM
Yeah, if I was planning on keeping the coach stored for some months during the wet season...
Remember, this is Wisconsin. Winter is not a 'wet' season. It's most definitely a snow season. The only wet is the snow melting when the sun decides to show itself once a week or so (more than that, but it seems like once a week). I have no plans to drive the bus from late December through at least March, as that's prime salt season around here. Some days in winter the blacktop actually looks white due to the salt crystals in the drying snow melt. I'll be able to start the bus and move it around the gravel a bit to keep oil seals wet, and that's about the best I can do.
For this year, carport not an option. The bus will be outside. My goal is to find a way to minimize problems given the limitations at hand.
Richard
Nice on the awning and glad you have a permanent spot to store the coach. It is amazing how just a roof covering helps a lot like carports with open side. I found this really nice (i.e. safe) open storage site for only 50 bucks a month, it sort of stopped me shopping for a better spot as they are all a lot more.
Location is certainly a factor. Fortunate to be in NorCal and "winter" here is nothing like in other spots. Get some rain but plenty of sunny days to dry things out so I'm figuring a tarp would be fine but sort of questioning if it's worth even throwing one over at all.
Since coaches are designed to be outside, I wouldn't worry about it. If you really want to spend that kind of money, just get a good RV cover for the length of your vehicle. One that is soft cloth lined with an outer fabric that can breath. It doesn't need to go clear to the ground. Just down over the windows or to top of baggage doors should be sufficient. Add extra tie down grommets to handle wind if necessary. Or you could get some Tyvek and duct tape over roof windows,vents, AC's and vista windows if you still have them. Don't use the cheap or Duck tape. It leaves residue when removed. Good stuff might remove some paint if you don't warm it first.
How big is your barn?
Quote from: Lee Bradley on October 10, 2017, 05:17:10 PM
How big is your barn?
Barn is more than large enough at 30x90. However, it was built in 1840s and is timber framed. I've got a door on one end and theoretically could drive inside. However, there is no way to know the strength of the main floor timbers and it's a long way down to the basement level (former milk parlor). In the days this barn was built the heaviest equipment used was a hay wagon with a team of four horses. There were tons of hay in the barn, but they were spread out over the whole floor, not in just four spots like a bus wheels.
On my "I've won the lottery" list of things to do is to have the main floor re-engineered with steel beams and proper supporting columns so that the bus can come inside. Until then, it's going to be outside parking only.
I will continue looking at the motor home covers. I had thought it would be necessary to get coverage all the way down the sides, but I guess if I can get coverage to the top of the bay doors it will probably be okay. That opens up a lot more options, as lack of height was a problem with the ones I had seen online.
I've used a tarp for several years before we built our barn. The key thing with a tarp is to buy a good thick one that is actually waterproof, the regular blue or green tarps from HF are not waterproof at all and you will trap water. I bought a 20x40' silver heavy duty tarp from McMaster Carr industrial supply. It cost me $200 but has worked perfectly for 3 years.
Consider a greenhouse, shadehouse type structure made from curved galvanized pipe. Cover it with white greenhouse quality plastic sheet. I have one that is 20' wide, 12' tall, and 70' long that I have used for 20+ years. I bought it from a garden center that was closing for $300, and I cover it with new plastic every five years or so. Since it is curved, it sheds rain and snow easily. There are even instructions on the web for making one yourself using galvanized fence pipe and a jig to bend the pipe into an arc. Zoning wise, (at least here) it is considered a temporary structure, so no additional taxes. There are greenhouse supply companies that sell cross-pipe connectors and accessories. Modifying your barn might also be a good idea. It might be cheaper to fill in the lower story rather than reconstruct the floor, or have a pit arrangement made with concrete. The cost of everything will guide you. The RV covers that Camping World sells cost big bucks, and they will still flap in the wind and chafe the paint, and you can't work on the bus inside the cover very well.
The heavy duty silver tarps from HF are waterproof and the heaviest one isn't abrasive, and shouldn't hurt the paint. They come in pretty large sizes. I'd still buy a grommet kit to add extra tie downs.
https://www.harborfreight.com/49-ft-x-29-ft-4-in-silverheavy-duty-reflective-all-purposeweather-resistant-tarp-60442.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/49-ft-x-29-ft-4-in-silverheavy-duty-reflective-all-purposeweather-resistant-tarp-60442.html)
https://www.harborfreight.com/28-ft-10-in-x-59-ft-silverheavy-duty-reflective-all-purposeweather-resistant-tarp-60453.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/28-ft-10-in-x-59-ft-silverheavy-duty-reflective-all-purposeweather-resistant-tarp-60453.html)
I did them same thing as Chessie with the Harbor Freight tarps, I think I used 2 20x15 silver colored tarps to cover my 35' 4104. Cost was about 40 bucks verses 400 plus for the rv covers. Works great. Also let's plenty of air to circulate under it.
Quote from: Nel on October 11, 2017, 05:25:06 AM
I did them same thing as Chessie with the Harbor Freight tarps, I think I used 2 20x15 silver colored tarps to cover my 35' 4104. Cost was about 40 bucks verses 400 plus for the rv covers. Works great. Also let's plenty of air to circulate under it.
Did you do anything special to keep the tarp from rubbing the paint off the roof? I worry about the wind causing it to rub/flap around a bit causing damage.
Richard
Depends on the quality of the paint. If it is Imron, no worries. You could buy some cheap flannel sheets and tape over critical corners. Two smaller tarps would be better if you don't have help handling huge cover.
No issues with paint on mine, I also used plenty of bungee cords to hold it down, don't use rope or cord needs to give a little on real windy days, my cover goes about half way down the side of the windows and windshield so moisture is not an issue.
Great discussion, my head is full of ideas! BCM rocks!
Was just wondering if you had a long side on the barn where you add a shed roof along side.