So, this morning we finished up a hockey tournament here in Blaine ,MN and it was time to take the bus home.
Was 50ish degrees out, I started it up and it smoked like usual until it game up to temp (sat for 3 days). It wasn't until I left the parking lot that the exhaust was completely clear. Engine temp was around 140-150 .
This is all normal still I think.
Now ever since I got the bus this spring the throttle has been stiff. It's been nice while cruising because with the eight of my foot on it she'll cruise at 63-65 perfectly.
Now what worried me
I couldn't get it to go much past 62mph no matter how much throttle I have it. It always felt like 3/4 pedal the whole 7-10 mile drive home. Acceleration from a stop seemed great still.
I'm wondering if it's possible I have binding in my throttle cable . Is that something that can go out of adjustment? The second factor for looking into this is I never get black smoke ever (more fuel than it can burn).
Any ideas?
God I hope my engine isn't having issues.
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I would lubricate the throttle pivot points and check the air cleaner and fuel filters.
Make sure your fuel filters don't need changed. They can creep up on you.
Just did fuel filters within 200 miles.
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Quote from: gumpy on October 01, 2017, 11:17:14 AM
I would lubricate the throttle pivot points and check the air cleaner and fuel filters.
Yeah I've been meaning to tackle the air cleaner. Who knows when that was last done.
Any tips on tackling that or can I just stop by :-)
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Quote from: neoneddy on October 01, 2017, 11:33:13 AM
Yeah I've been meaning to tackle the air cleaner. Who knows when that was last done.
Any tips on tackling that or can I just stop by :-)
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It's a pain in the butt to get it out and moreso to get it back in. You're welcome to get the element from JD and bring your bus by and I'll help you change it. It'll take about 30 minutes. BTW, I want your old filter element if you're just going to throw it away. I'll trade you my time to help change it for the old element. :)
Check the linkage have some one push the pedal and be sure it is opening all the way,then be sure the shut down cylinder is retracting all the way back,no black smoke either the fuel filter or the shut down cylinder is not fully retracting would be my WAG if you have a mechanical engine
My throttle cable (MC-5C so about the same as yours) had frayed inside the flexible rubber cover and was almost seized. I only discovered it when I was changing my engine, I didn't look for it. The rubber cover is a kind of bellows affair at the end of the cable. Changing the cable was a stone bitch, it was very hard for a number of reasons that since I now know them I can tell you... :)
When I first got my bus had the same problem.Turns out there was rag in the fuel tank blocking the pickup.
Maybe Your usage also.
I use to re-use the big filters and it worked great, i no longer have a big parts washer sitting on the barrel. But having one of these big long filters sitting on a brick or two in the barrel and able to strain the parts fluid is a great option.
Floyd
Update: had the lady come and stomp on the pedal up front and I'd say there is a good 1-2 inches of travel still available that the pedal wouldn't do.
Next I climbed in the spare tire bay to find a bent throttle linkage rod or something.
It's going to be hard to resist straightening it out before I hear a reply from the experts, no promises.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171001/de6f297980b174418ad3edcfc1c8a64e.jpg)
Next I also found this monstrosity on the other side of the throttle. Anything to be concerned with? What's it do?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171001/37c00887848a94711ec9b30733cec827.jpg)
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someone spliced a broken cable.... ???
What a mess almost looks like a Eagle with all the rust,a air throttle could be your best bet on that bus
Just got back from a test drive after bending the throttle linkage back and giving all the moving parts a shot of wd40 and then lithium grease.
I've got good news and bad news to report. Good news is I think this was the issue, after straightening the linkage there was maybe ½ inch of throttle movement left at the engine. Wow the power, I doubt many people have said that about a 6v92 in a bus but it felt like a major upgrade.
She went right up to 70 and wanted to keep going on flat land. I'm wondering if maybe it was bent as a poor man's governor by the previous transit company.
So what's the bad news? Other than more rust for me to worry about I fear my 8mpg trips might be in the rear view mirror. I still never saw any black smoke but in the end she's got way more power then I even felt when it was a gutted shell.
The broken cable just went to a sensor. Best I can tell throttle position, I don't think my 82 mc9 has any Computer smarts on it.
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Time to change to air throttle.
Quote from: neoneddy on October 01, 2017, 03:35:40 PM
The broken cable just went to a sensor. Best I can tell throttle position, I don't think my 82 mc9 has any Computer smarts on it.
Possibly part of a cruise control system. Hard to tell from the photo, but that part it goes into looks like an air cylinder like one I have that is part of a defunct cruise control.
Quote from: TomC on October 02, 2017, 06:30:59 AMTime to change to air throttle.
My bus came with a hydraulic connector from pedal to fuel pump -- it was locked up with corrosion inside. I put on an air-assembly, it worked very well.
My cruise also doesn't work, it's something I'd like to get working.
Now in the original post I was concerned a bit about the smoke, I'm actually wondering if that was from the pedal never fully retracting and fuel being allowed to seep in while shutdown. There is a fuel shutoff in the back, but I usually only use that when sitting for long periods of time.
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The fuel rack that controls the injectors is controlled by the governor, not the pedal. When the engine is turned off the governor goes to no-fuel and puts all the injectors in the no-fuel position. When the engine is starting again, and being cranked, the injector positions are set by the starting aid, it positions the injector racks for starting. As soon as the engine starts the governor takes over and controls the injector positions. Smoke when starting is pretty much a function of cold cylinders not fully burning the injected fuel (the governor doesn't know the engine is cold) or burning off oil that might have seeped in from valves, bad rings, etc.
Brian
Thanks everyone. I get such anxiety at times about stuff.
I have anew question, but I'm going to start a new thread.
Does smoke smell like diesel or burning oil you would know difference, check the oil in case your burning ( that is worse case) or could be cold start smoke all diesels will smoke a little when cold weather starting .
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Quote from: TomC on October 02, 2017, 06:30:59 AM
Time to change to air throttle.
Agree totally for safety more than anything else
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Quote from: MrCrowley on October 04, 2017, 04:57:29 AM
Agree totally for safety more than anything else
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Na, smells like diesel, earlier in the year when it was warmer she'd start up with no smoke.
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I want to resurrect this to post an update, nothing worse than an unresolved post.
I'm pretty sure the issue all along was my transmission being low on fluid. After finding all my bolts loose on the bell housing recently, I'm pretty sure I was loosing plenty of fluid, so I never got lockup. Makes sense in hind sight as I noticed when it happened on our trip back from the Dells all of a sudden I couldn't go as fast as I was before and I was building some heat, nothing crazy scary, I just figured it was the hills and the heat. MPG dropped after all of this too, I think I posted this elsewhere, but I did end up adding almost 3 gallons, but I think I have the leak mostly fixed, and I'm carrying 3 gal of extra fluid and will be checking frequently. Had Scott Crosby the mobile mechanic out here this spring and he gave the engine a clean bill of health, so nothing bad there, my worries there were just me being a newbie.
Now, my throttle linkage was still bent, but I'm guessing it was a poor man's governor that the old transit company did to keep black smoke down and MPG up. I still don't get full WOT rack position, but I'm ok with that, no need to hammer it.
Did you see the leak ? loose bell housing bolts shouldn't make a 740 leak, you have to remove the the flywheel,lockup clutch and turbine and use a special puller to remove the stator and pump to get to the seal those don't free float like on a car