I was just gifted a yanmar 3 cylinder diesel out of a John Deere golf ball picker upper. Has about 1400hrs on it. Oil looks good, runs solid ran it today, radiator looks brand new actually the whole motor looks a lot newer than the body of the golf ball picker upper. Since this is free to me, can I buy a generator head for this and build a generator? I've converted two buses so I'm handy lol.
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Cool!
I think there is more to bolting on a motor to an alternator. If you find a generator with a busted motor, that would make the most sense. It would be a lot to cobble together all the non motor components to make your own generator.
Since I've just been knee deep in generator problems, learning more than I care. In my case, a Generarc RV 8Kw liquid cooled diesel, some features are designed into generators. For example, the typical engine coolant temperature and oil pressure switches do more than light up bulbs in the dash; they also shutdown the generator. An electronic control module coordinates this shutdown and manages other functions; this is probably unique to generators. Power from the alternator is monitored and controlled via the module. Load and engine speed are managed as well.
Hmmm. Interesting. Probably way too much work to do this. Maybe I'll just keep the tractor. I realized today actually that it's a greens mower. Has hydraulics and everything. Would be cool to add a plow to it or something. I'll figure out something to do with it.
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To make it simple, just find a 12kw belt driven gen head. Belt drive it with a cogged timing belt and off you go!
I just did the same thing as you are attempting. It is quite possible and not really that difficult.
We had a Kohler generator attached to a Perkins diesel. Mice destroyed the generator and control box. I was left with a perfectly good engine.
After a bunch of phone calls to the tech at Wrico, I was the proud owner of a 13kw generator head which bolted directly to the end of the Perkins. Then I wired a set of Murphy switch gauges to control the shut down of the engine in case of high temp or low oil, and installed a key switch to run the whole shebang.
The big factor that will determine if this will work is the measurement of your bell housing. The generators can be ordered with adapter rings to enable them to bolt directly to most standard size bell housing/flywheel combinations. The tech at Wrico can send you a chart of the standards they can fit. The measurements you are concerned about are:
1) Bolt pattern on and of bell housing. Both the diameter of the bolts and the number of them.
2) Diameter of the depression in the end of the flywheel as well as the bolt pattern.
3) The offset between the surface of the bell housing and the surface of the flywheel depression.
The end of the generator will have a flex plate. This is nothing more than a few thin pieces of metal which are bolted to the shaft on the generator. The flex plate bolts directly to the flywheel. It sits in the depress which is on the surface of the flywheel - sort of where the clutch pack would go in a 'normal' engine set up.
The flex plate is connected to the part of the generator which spins. You will mount it to the flywheel first. The portion of the generator which is stationary (the outer casing) mounts directly to the bell housing through the adapter ring.
There are no brushes on the new generator heads, so they sit pretty compactly and don't take up as much space.
Once you've got the new generator head bolted on, all that's left is to cram all the new wiring for the controls into the box on top of the generator. I've got mine all working through a Murphy Switch. Turn the key, and the Murphy Switch engages a relay to provide power to the governor, radiator fan, fuel pump, and hour meter. The Murphy Switch I have allows 30 seconds to crank and build oil pressure. They can be ordered with a 15 second delay or with a manual bypass button for starting. Once the engine starts and builds pressure, the Murphy Switch just sits there until there is a problem. If the needle in either the oil pressure or engine temp gauges hit the set point, the Murphy Switch cuts power to the relay, thereby shutting down the system. Easy peezy.
Right now I've got mine set up with parallel key switches in the generator bay and inside the coach so I can start in either place. There is a toggle in the generator bay which will send power to either key switch so that it can't be started accidentally by someone in the other area if you're working on things.
The one thing you'll have to figure out on your particular engine is how to govern the engine speed. It will be really important that you have an accurate governor and can set the engine to hold a speed of 1800 rpm. The frequency of the power (and the voltage to some degree) are determined by engine speed, so this has to be held constant.
I can send photos if you would like. The one posted shows things just before I installed in the bay.
Wow! Fantastic write up Richard! Ok, I'll chat with Erich more about this. After all the engine is indeed free. I won't have a single moment to work on it until Christmas because I'm on the road. But I can start gathering bits and pieces and info. Thanks so much again. I may be poking your brain more soon.
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Quote from: Scott & Heather on September 05, 2017, 05:55:07 AM
Wow! Fantastic write up Richard! Ok, I'll chat with Erich more about this. After all the engine is indeed free. I won't have a single moment to work on it until Christmas because I'm on the road. But I can start gathering bits and pieces and info. Thanks so much again. I may be poking your brain more soon.
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Just let me know what you need. Wrico can get you set on the generator head. For the Murphy pieces I went with MurCal (I think that they are the California distributor for Murphy). They have an excellent tech support team that can walk you through that end of things.
I did not install an auto start setup. Perhaps I'll do that later on, but for now I wanted to be in control of what happens. If you want auto start I believe Wrico can help.
Richard
I've got one of those cheap Chinese wind generator things. No vanes etc. I've been toying with putting it with a model airplane engine to make a mini 12v generator. The only thing that stops me is I don't have a spare engine and given the thing would be such an experiment, I'm not prepared to buy one.
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Wrico has an auto start control system that can be adapted to work with most setups. It is a stand alone and not brand specific. I have one on mine, just flip a switch, easy peasy.
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Nice, auto start is on the list for sure. I'll need to price out the head and conversion parts to be sure it's worth it for me but again, free engine with relatively speaking low hours so I can't imagine i should pass this by
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How great Scott, you get to choose the generator KW output and physical size for a decent price, lvmci...
Martin Diesel in Defiance, Ohio (Southwest of Toledo) builds their own generator units, and they use Yanmar engines. They have parts for old & new Yanmars. I have had a generator of theirs since 1996 with no problems. They have mated their generators to other engines such as Perkins, as well. Their number is (866) 868-9911.
Scott do you know the hp rating on that engine? Hp will dictate the size of head you will want to mate it up to. (iow, limit kw output)
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A friend of mine (died about 7 years ago and was in his 80's then) built a generator out of a 3 cyl kubota from an old tractor and a belt driven 8k head from harbor freight. Got over 20 years out of it before having to replace the power head. No electronics just a simple key start.
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Crazy cheap way to do it...pulley size dictates RPM. Makes sense. I don't know the HP rating yet. I'll look at the serial tag closer later but from what I've read it should be in the 16hp range. I only want 7000 watts give or take. Don't have huge power needs. I've been running for several years on 6000 watts without issue at all.
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Better to oversize and not need it, going to be the same fuel usage for the same kw output reggardless of the size of the generator head. If it is a 16hp i would probably go with around a 8-10kw head. You need to knlw what the hp is at the rpm you will be setting it at. I would think 1800. You can get a head for 1800 with same size pullys or 3600 with 2 to 1 pullys. Definately go with a cogged belt setup though.
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Belts and pulleys work, but if it's possible to just bolt a generator head to the engine that would get my vote. Certainly more compact, certainly less maintenance. Belts & pulleys seem like just one more thing to go wrong that doesn't need to be there.
The process of mounting the head to the engine took us less than 30 minutes. Would have taken even less time if the guy helping me hadn't dawdled crossing the street to my shop :)
There are adapter plates and flex plates to fit most common flywheel/bell housing sizes, so it can't hurt to ask about that when you talk to whoever you're going to buy the generator head from.
Richard
I agree, bolting direct would be beSt. I'm going to be calling wrico as soon as I get a free moment. I might stop by them when I'm passing by Eugene
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Ours is 7KW Kolher head bolted to a 24 HP Kuboda 3 cylinder. It has 9,036 hours and still running strong. Just replaced the Thermostat and change oil every year as well as filters. Blow out the old condenser hole because a lot of road dirt get in there with the air inlet from the bottom.
Do a lot of research before buying a head,I used a M/B engine from a refer trailer one time and bought a 10kw head the the harmonic distortion was so far off on the head a light bulb was about the only thing you could run off it,look for a head under 5% harmonic distortion .A 16 hp engine should run a 7kw head but no more
Kubota says their 15.6hp 3 cyl will run up to 11.6kw continuous, of course thats going to be at sea level. I would take into consideration hp derating for altitude as well. Higher you go, lower kw output you are going to get from the engine. Definately better to go bigger than you think you will need. Don't want to be camping up at 10k feet and overload on a hair dryer lol.
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Ok, so one final quick question. Is there a specific reason for 1800rpm? What would stop someone from running the genny slightly lower RPM, say 1500 and using pulleys and a belt to achieve 1800 on the generator head side? Would this save fuel?
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The generator heads are designed to produce the proper voltage and frequency (60hz in US) at a particular speed. If you're going to bolt directly to the engine, then you'll need to have a way to set the engine speed to the proper speed. Most diesel generators run at 1800 rpm. A few run at 3600, but they are generally much noisier and not ideal. Even with the pretty decent voltage regulator on the new generator heads, get the rpm off just a bit and you'll be producing the proper voltage but at the wrong frequency. You can run an electric motor at frequencies other than 60 hz, but there will be consequences (most not good.)
I suppose you could run the engine at a lower speed and the run generator through pulleys to get the proper speed, but I don't think you'll save any fuel. It will take the exact same amount of energy to produce the desired electrical current and I don't think that there will be any great efficiency different on the engine between 1500 and 1800 rpm. I'm not good at formulas, but I'm sure that there is one which shows how many BTUs of diesel burning are necessary to produce a kw of electricity.
If you go the pulley route instead of the direct bolt-on method, you'll also have to deal with the extra drag and heat generated by the belts and pulleys. That will of course lower your efficiency a tad. You'll also have a larger setup as there will need to be room between the generator and engine for the pulley setup.
I've run a wood furniture business for many years, and whenever someone asks me to build something that is outside the traditional way of doing things I have to ask if there is a reason for things being done the way they are. Usually there is. I think that the same thing applies here. If most of the RV generators use a head bolted directly to the engine running at 1800 rpm, I'd have to start with the assumption that there is a reason. Could someone create something which works equally through some other method? Sure. Would I bother trying? Probably not when the tried and true method works well and is not difficult.
If you are going by Wrinco They will give you all the info you need. If you want they will build the generator for you with your engine. I parked in there lot while they rewired my generator with there safety shut down. They are great people.
Jack
Most small Diesels have to be tuned to run down at 1800. If you go on site to Kubota, you'll notice special engines that are rated at 1800. Going to 1500 could lug the engine. If anything, run the engine at 2200 and belt drive it down to 1800. Whatever rpm the engine is doing, alternators are made in 60hz mathematical rpms. Like 900, 1200, 1800, 3600. I've seen some 1200 alternators used with slow running Diesels (think Lister 2 bangers) to get rpm-but these are big, noisy, but long lasting-good for home standby use. Good Luck, TomC
I glued these together, which I wouldnt recommend. Works great though, got everything at no cost so I had to do something.
https://youtu.be/-gsQBKDOE2Q
Quote from: Scott & Heather on September 08, 2017, 06:02:36 AM
Ok, so one final quick question. Is there a specific reason for 1800rpm? What would stop someone from running the genny slightly lower RPM, say 1500 and using pulleys and a belt to achieve 1800 on the generator head side? Would this save fuel?
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load decides fuel consumption regardless the rpm.
There is a definite difference in fuel consumption from a 1800 to 3600 engine. But these small Diesels are so fuel efficient, that the difference won't be very noticeable. Direct driven 1800 is the best. Using a 3 or 4 cylinder engine-2cylinder engines are rough-Except Onan DJB engine that is the only even firing 2 cylinder I know of (both pistons move up and down together). Good Luck, TomC
Ok I've taken the time to read every response and it answers my question. All a learning curve for me. Thank you so much. Opus, I love that genny. Cool project
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So I just spoke with Justin at Wrico. I haven't yet determined the style of my engine (will do that this week), but if it's an industrial engine it won't have an SAE bellhousing which is a show stopper according to him. Also, no electronic governor to keep it at 1800 rpm. Also a $1500 add on. He's saying it might be more money to put this together than to just buy one. $6200 for a new unit is a lot of dough tho. I really wish I could find a cheap 1800 rpm governor for this engine along with a proper SAE bellhousing because if I can, I can bring the engine to him and get a head for around d $2000 which i can easily recover selling my hondas. I'm bummed.
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Many engines have mechanical govenors and are (set). Whether used for generators or other task. Being kinda brief, mfg's design engine components ie: camshafts to perform @ best effeciency at a certain governor setting, be it locked or within a parameter. Like a truck or tractor etc..
So in respect a solenoid to control a speed or rpm "with a bad fuctioning motor" is the same as a mechanical locked/set governor. Now to go further in some laymen terms both systems in generator land use the spinning of the armature to gather a signal and this is a measure both systems use.
If this measure is not in spec. Then it "the regulator" be it a mechanical or a circuit board like older sx460 or one of the newer ones can adjust slightly or shut down the system, if hertz or voltage isnt in set parameters. Hth
Floyd
Quote from: brmax on September 11, 2017, 11:57:49 AM
Many engines have mechanical govenors and are (set). Whether used for generators or other task. Being kinda brief, mfg's design engine components ie: camshafts to perform @ best effeciency at a certain governor setting, be it locked or within a parameter. Like a truck or tractor etc..
So in respect a solenoid to control a speed or rpm "with a bad fuctioning motor" is the same as a mechanical locked/set governor. Now to go further in some laymen terms both systems in generator land use the spinning of the armature to gather a signal and this is a measure both systems use.
If this measure is not in spec. Then it "the regulator" be it a mechanical or a circuit board like older sx460 or one of the newer ones can adjust slightly or shut down the system, if hertz or voltage isnt in set parameters. Hth
While that is true they need to have a variable speed governor a limiting speed governor will not work on a generator
Floyd
Good point, the cruise controls would be like that. I was thinking of the consistant hi setting of a mechanical. Seems they work the same as electronic. Asking a certain speed to put the weights out there so to speak. Then in the same are variably opening the hole for more or less fuel to do it. I can honestly see that being great with electronicly controled injection with dwell, but just not seeing it with the mechanical parts.
It seems a couple ways they (the big dogs) want this, some for good reason. Safety always goes with the newest typically and on n on.
What I get curious about is the newest variable style, what do they do. In respect I can see the newest shutting down the gen motor and lighting a lamp. Or sending me a text message that five times today it had seen an issue.
Im just not sure I need the basic ECM to control this fuel solenoid throttle over the mechanical. I guess because the sc460 does this now. I can always use more home work help with it. I see it has many of the same key measures like with the varible voltage setting within a range if im not mistaken. Im not sure that it can shut down the engine, but I do believe it can shut down output if not in a percent of its design and that being selectable. And sorry about this very long reply.
Have a good day everybody, and as always thanks Luvrbus for the knowledge.
Floyd
Our Perkins has an electric governor which controls the engine speed. It is pretty a pretty basic mechanical setup that pulls the injector pump open with it has power. We set the speed with a set screw stop. Possibly something like this can be retrofitted to the Yanmar?
Richard
Richard even if I could find a way to govern the engine RPM, it seems that the bigger issue is the bell housing. How hard is it to adapt an SAE bell housing to an industrial Yanmar? I believe it only has the flat steel plate versus an actual bell housing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Scott, one of these wrench benders around here has a link or tip about this sae bell housing list. I say that because i did several years ago or 3 laptops and several phones ago, oh obviously the hard drive that i lost it on.
Anyway typically engines have this standard in their sizing and bolt up patterns. And these are listed somewhere as to which sae number that yanmar uses. Society of Automotive Engineers and thats world wide, and here I thought it was some american engineer haha
Im sure to get some feed back on that. Anyway thats it in a walnut shell
Floyd
You don't necessary need a bell housing for a generator head there are 1000's around driven with a flex coupling or drive shaft direct from the crankshaft of the engine
That flat steel plate might be a bell housing. The one on my Perkins is pretty flat compared to one found on a car.
I just did a quick search and found lots of info from the boating world about adapter plates and bell housings for Yanmar.
Even an industrial engine there has to be something to connect the engine to whatever it is powering.
Richard
1964 PD4106-2412
There are two different kinds of alternator heads. First is what is called a single bearing where one end is support by a normal bearing and the other is supported by the engine. This would be used for a direct mounting to the bell housing.
Second is what is called a 2 bearing where both ends are support with a bearing with some type of shaft coming out. These usually can be used with a drive shaft with flexible coupling, or with belt drive (although belt drive needs to have the suitable bearing to support the side thrust of the belts).
I've seen giant EMD (locomotive engine) 20V-710 using shaft driven 2 bearing alternators. The main advantage to a single bearing direct mounting is compactness. With belt drive, by changing the pulley size you can have different rpms of the engine and alternator-like engine running at 2300 and alternator running at 1800. Good Luck, TomC
Ok I'll be removing the engine if I can tomorrow and see if I can take some pics of the end of it
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170913/260a7f6e433b208ebd100b6fdc11093b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170913/ce3700ad5d571691d092dc379c4d27ac.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170913/27267b63d9730b97d69f687e64c8beb6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170913/c0df45656a92142cf2f9a910de19d885.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170913/da0a52646c6ef6231487efc933d62eef.jpg)
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Looks to me like you've got a bell housing. That flat piece on the end with the 8 bolts is bolted to the end of the bell housing. That orange toothed thing looks like it bolted to the flywheel, probably in the same place where the flex plate of the generator head will connect. I'd be excited if this were mine - take off that cover and see what the dimensions of the bell housing and flywheel are. That cluster of bolts in the middle of the flywheel are the ones used to connect the flywheel to the engine.
I've attached the PDF that I received from Wrico - these are the sizes of bellhousing/flywheels they can supply adapters for. My understanding is that the three dimensions you're most interested in are the 1) internal opening of the bell housing & bolt pattern, 2) the size of the mounting area on the face of the flywheel and bolt pattern, and 3) the offset from the surface of the bellhousing to the surface of the mounting area on the flywheel.
Richard
Ok Richard Justin sent me a PDF too. I'll have to remove the cover to get in and measure. He's saying my engine only has 784 displacement which could translate into only 5000 or 6000 watts of generator power. this sounds low to me?
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That is set up for a hydraulic pump drive.looks to be same engine as the John Deere Gator uses 3600 rpm 48 cubic inches.fwiw the Onan 8000W diesel RV generator is just 719 CC so 6000 watts sounds low to me too
Yep. This greens mower had tons of hydraulics. I'm starting to question wricos answers to me. Something isn't lining up.
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At 1800 rpm i think 6000 to maybe 6500 sounds about right. The onan inverter generators run faster than 1800 at higher output. Run that yanmar at 3600 and you can probably pull down 8k. I wouldnt want to listen to that racket though. I would run it at 1800 with direct drive and about a 6k or 6.5k head. Or run it around 2250 with a belt drive and run a 3600 rpm 7.5k head. If the engine cant carry the head at full capacity its not a big deal, just use less electricity. A larger head wont use any more fuel than a smaller one at the same output.
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6500 watts would be plenty for us. Once again I've been happy for years now with 5500. Anything more than that is gravy
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Is there any value in an old Onan generator? It's a model #5000K with an attached opposed twin cylinder gasoline engine with electric start. Way too heavy to lift by hand. It's been out of the weather in a corner of the shop for the last couple of years just collecting dust and has recently been thrown outside. Rain is coming soon and I will protect it if there is any value in it. But otherwise it becomes scrap. OH-I should add that it says 1800RPM on the gen head.
Will
Quote from: PP on September 14, 2017, 05:05:42 PM
Is there any value in an old Onan generator? It's a model #5000K with an attached opposed twin cylinder gasoline engine with electric start. Way too heavy to lift by hand. It's been out of the weather in a corner of the shop for the last couple of years just collecting dust and has recently been thrown outside. Rain is coming soon and I will protect it if there is any value in it. But otherwise it becomes scrap. OH-I should add that it says 1800RPM on the gen head.
Will
Yes, I took a similar engine with a bad gen head and bought a Chinese brush 5kW generator and made a running genset with an adapter to run off the flywheel.
--Geoff
Thanks Geoff, I guess I'll put it somewhere dry for now.
Will
Ok so I just emailed Justin at Wrico the stats on my flexplate and bellhousing. All is fine in that department, but he's basically said that it is going to be a super low KW generator because of my HP. Or lack thereof. It's an 18hp unit but he says that is makes that HP at 3600 rpm. He's saying once we drop it down to 1800, it will only power a small KW head. What say you guys? I'm about to just take this thing back home and give it up at this point. I need at least 6000 watts.
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Looking into the Internet for conversions I found that 7kw converted to mechanical hp would be 9.3871546219 hp. I would think that if you down the rpms of 3600/18 hp to 1800 rpms you would probably decrease your hp by almost half say 9hp. So from what I see 9hp could possibly give you at least 6 to 7 kw with 6 being the best option. Just my thoughts. I have a Kohler 9kw/1800 rpm rv generator so I will check and see what hp it is rated at for the 9kw.
the power that is will bless you in good time.
pass.
I think that's what I'm going to do at this point. Justin was amazingly patient with me teaching me bunches. I'd much rather buy a whole unit at this point when the $$ are ready. Until then, my twin hondas are humming along.
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I'll chime in to agree about Justin and the folks at Wrico. They were more than helpful when the Kohler on my bus got murdered by some evil rodents. We ended up keeping our Perkins and getting a 13kw head from Wrico. I would have replaced the whole unit with one of theirs, but since our has the cooling plumbed into the bus cooling system that wasn't possible.
Either way you go, at least you've gotten a great base of knowledge now for moving forward. Who knows, maybe another (slightly larger) diesel engine will drop in your lap sometime soon?
Richard
Richard you speak truth. And I can only hope one does lol
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Scott,
18 hp doesn't sound quite right. What was the mower model number? I owned a JD dealership and still have many many many tech manuals on CDs. The smallest of the Yanmar 3TNEs were 18hp (as used in the Diesel Gator), but a commercial mower would have been much more. Even the twin cylinder Yanmar in the 735 comm mower was 18hp.
Ebay may have the generator style governor you would need.
BTW, the Mitsubishi K3D in my 8500 watt Westerbeke is rated at 21hp at 3600 and 12hp at 1800 rpm. Runs at 8500 watts at 1800 rpm without any issues, at 12 hp.
Mark
Hey mark it was a John Deere 2243 greens mower. 3008D001 motor. I am only guessing but I think it's an 18hp unit. It has a pump drive adapter on the flex plate because it ran entirely on hydraulics.
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Scott, that has a ETNV70 Yanmar. My manuals show it should be 8.75kw at 1800 rpm, which translates to 11.7 hp, which will run a 7500 watt gen head.
Thats a sweet little engine. Should have a SAE #5 bell housing.
I say go for it Scott!
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Direct quote of emails with Justin including what he thinks my SAE is which matches my measurements: (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170917/b844a23acaf919d523ea42328be7640e.jpg)
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Btw derrick my displacement is 784
Those of you who think I can do this I really really would love to. I'm tired of filling my gennies every day. Even if I could buy the head and mount it, I can't find out how to get an electronic governor on this? Anyone have a source?
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I don't know all the particulars about how the engine was setup in the mower, but wasn't there already some type of governor controlling the engine speed? I thought that the hydraulic units always ran at a constant engine speed. A quick online search seemed to show that the injector pump has a governor, unless I was looking at the wrong engine/application. If that's the case then you'd just need a solenoid to pull the throttle open when powered up.
Richard
Quote from: Scott & Heather on September 16, 2017, 05:42:19 PM
Btw derrick my displacement is 784
Those of you who think I can do this I really really would love to. I'm tired of filling my gennies every day. Even if I could buy the head and mount it, I can't find out how to get an electronic governor on this? Anyone have a source?
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As I mentioned before, Martin Diesel in Defiance, Ohio knows Yanmar's well, and builds generators, and has parts for old & new.
Yes, call Paul at Martin to see if it's possible, their genheads. will be a little expensive, but he may tell about the governor
Richard: it does have a throttle (cable driven)
Walter: I think I'll give him a ring for a second opinion. And Ohio is a lot closer to Michigan than Oregon.
Niles: I honestly don't mind paying a few $$$ for the head since the engine is free. I just need to be sure I'm not out so much $$$ that it wasn't just better to buy a fully completed unit instead.
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You don't want build a marginal size generator IMO heat and altitude really takes a toll on a generator,here when we reach 115 degrees a 8kw will not run 2 AC units.Check out the Cummins Onan site they spell it out for you on how and what affects generators
Sheesh cliff, if I'm ever stuck in that kind of heat, you can bet I'll be in an RV park asap with 50amp hookup and the meter spinning so fast it melts the metal disc....and for everything else, my generator should work fine. My air cooled twin Honda 3000's have never ever ever failed me in stupid heat and -22 temps...I am not asking my generator to work magic but I'm just conflicted and confused because so many people and my own math and research tell me that I should be able to make this work...I'm calling Martin tomorrow for a second professional opinion.
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Altitude does not affect a gasoline engine like it does a N/A diesel,you are seeing more and more of the little diesels with turbos now,Martin uses a turbo on some models I have saw, hp rating is at sea level so manufactures adjust for altitude loss with more hp,With the best thought out plan a marginal diesel generator is not fun in the heat and high altitude BTDT
good luck
Buy the Berg or similar system and add a large gas tank for your Hondas, ours will run for over a week off the factory tank.
Cliff, we do see some 7500ft elevation yearly in our travels so this could be a show stopper. GG, I wish I could but the Honda EU3000is extended tank system is actually a bit complicated and expensive...I'm considering it though...
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Quote from: Scott & Heather on September 18, 2017, 02:12:32 PM
Cliff, we do see some 7500ft elevation yearly in our travels so this could be a show stopper. GG, I wish I could but the Honda EU3000is extended tank system is actually a bit complicated and expensive...I'm considering it though...
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is it possible to adapt 2 or 3 outboard motor tanks....http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200478118_200478118 (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200478118_200478118)
Donald, part of the issue with EU3000's is that they don't have a fuel pump. gravity fed. So you have to buy special caps that don't vent, and a special kit that connects to the oil drain or fill I can't remember which and somehow uses oil pressure or vacuum to pump the fuel from the extra tank to the genny. The kit is like $300 and I'd need two of them. Not to mention that I will not get nearly the life span out of these hondas as I will the diesel. So a diesel genny is really in my future, I just thought it could be sooner since I was given this low hour diesel Yanmar.
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Scott while in the planning building process could you not go ahead and add a turbo to your engine? Seems to me that could solve all issues!
;D BK ;D
Quote from: B_K on September 19, 2017, 07:39:44 AM
Scott while in the planning building process could you not go ahead and add a turbo to your engine? Seems to me that could solve all issues!
;D BK ;D
You are seeing more and more of those little diesel generators with turbos now,turbos are popping up now the truck refer units too man they are quite compared to the old units
My little kubota has 24:1 compression ratio, i wonder about the results of turboing something like that. Maybe a waste gated turbo with around 7-8 psi?
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Ok so BK, yes maybe but I'm involved in this more than I wanted to be at this point so I'm bailing out. I just spoke with Martin diesel and they confirmed that at 1800 rpm we can only run a 4500 watt head. Just not enough juice for me right now :( so that's that.
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Yep 4500 watts you take the heat and altitude into consideration some places you are down to 3800 to 3500 watts not enough ponies there big guy
Quote from: Scott & Heather on September 19, 2017, 08:33:03 AM
Ok so BK, yes maybe but I'm involved in this more than I wanted to be at this point so I'm bailing out. I just spoke with Martin diesel and they confirmed that at 1800 rpm we can only run a 4500 watt head. Just not enough juice for me right now :( so that's that.
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but look at what you learned :)