I've been looking for a pair of jack stands to use under the rear of my 4106 instead of wood blocking. From what I've seen, blocking under the engine cradle mounts at the bulkhead is an acceptable place to block the body. My measurements with air bags inflated shows about a 10-1/2" clear height. This would mean that I'd like to have a pair of jack stands that go down a bit below this (for when they air bags are not fully inflated). Problem is, I have not been able to find a pair of stands that is both rated for the weight and short enough to fit where they need to go.
What are others using to block the rear of the 4106? Am I using a proper space to block? Anyone have a lead on some suitable jack stands?
Thanks
Richard
Honestly, any stands strong enough would be very heavy. Last time I did anything like that, I used piles of concrete blocks as my stands.
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Sorry Richard, thought I had a ringer!
This place here I used a bit and in the organization they used a lot.
http://store.grayusa.com/index.php/vehicle-support-stands/model-35-tf.html#product_tabs_specifications_tabbed (http://store.grayusa.com/index.php/vehicle-support-stands/model-35-tf.html#product_tabs_specifications_tabbed)
This stuff made here in the States falls under the real rules ( it better be able to ) and they do have some nice equipment. Real nice if your a Mechanic or even the many that armchair the task ;D obviously if your doing the wrenchin and in your twenties its a very smart place to invest.
Maybe these would interest:
http://store.grayusa.com/index.php/vehicle-support-stands/model-25-tf.html#product_tabs_specifications_tabbed (http://store.grayusa.com/index.php/vehicle-support-stands/model-25-tf.html#product_tabs_specifications_tabbed)
Its made in Missouri you can count on it.
Floyd
I know Zephod suggested cinder blocks, but I've had one literally explode from the compression forces of our bus sitting on it. Loud bang and sudden drop. Thought I was back in the war. Now I use a combination of wood blocks and screw jacks. As I find more screw jacks, I'm eliminating the wood blocks. I like the adjustability of the screw jacks even if they're rating doesn't quite meet the weight of a bus, I'm not trying to lift the bus with them :o. I place 4 in the rear (2 in front of drive axle where it's welded to the frame and 2 under the engine cradle) the front bags never lose air so I don't use any up front.
HTH Will
With your height restrictions, you will likely need to make your own.
Acme thread 1-1/4" x 5 threads per inch will support 29,000 lbs.
Some heavy steel angle, and a couple of acme nuts & bolts . . . . .
Quote from: PP on August 31, 2017, 05:45:16 PM
I know Zephod suggested cinder blocks, but I've had one literally explode from the compression forces of our bus sitting on it. Loud bang and sudden drop. Thought I was back in the war. Now I use a combination of wood blocks and screw jacks. As I find more screw jacks, I'm eliminating the wood blocks. I like the adjustability of the screw jacks even if they're rating doesn't quite meet the weight of a bus, I'm not trying to lift the bus with them :o. I place 4 in the rear (2 in front of drive axle where it's welded to the frame and 2 under the engine cradle) the front bags never lose air so I don't use any up front.
HTH Will
And I've had wood crumble. Guess everybody has different experiences
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How about placing a 2"x12" board down in front of each rear tire, drive onto them, and you just got an extra 1 1/2" height for jacks.
Quote from: windtrader on August 31, 2017, 06:49:42 PM
How about placing a 2"x12" board down in front of each rear tire, drive onto them, and you just got an extra 1 1/2" height for jacks.
Sometimes, moving the coach isn't an option.
Quote from: Zephod on August 31, 2017, 06:48:53 PM
And I've had wood crumble. Guess everybody has different experiences
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Only time I've had wood crush is when it was too small for the load placed on it. Often, a piece of 1/4" thick steel between the wood & coach is all that's needed to distribute the load & not crush the wood.
8" ID pipe
an inside 7 1/2" OD pipe schd 80
13/16 inch drill bit
a variety of steel gussets
a 3/4" draw pin....
a drill press
a welding machine
presto changeO :)
I have the stands Brmax linked I don't trust the others since they are rated in pairs,they are pricey but worth it IMO
Digging an inspection pit helps :)
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Quote from: luvrbus on August 31, 2017, 08:38:40 PMI have the stands Brmax linked I don't trust the others since they are rated in pairs,they are pricey but worth it IMO
50,000 Lb each!! Wow, that's a solid jack stand. Sure looks good to me.
I have the cheap type locking fail with me before so that is why I have the pin type now
how about this
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-3-ton-aluminum-axle-stands-0091627p.html (http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-3-ton-aluminum-axle-stands-0091627p.html)
dave
Quote from: Zephod on September 01, 2017, 12:34:50 AM
Digging an inspection pit helps :)
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Yes, that would go over real well in an RV park or someone's driveway haha ;D
Quote from: sledhead on September 01, 2017, 08:42:22 AM
how about this
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-3-ton-aluminum-axle-stands-0091627p.html (http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-3-ton-aluminum-axle-stands-0091627p.html)
dave
My screw jacks are rated higher than these and only cost a few bucks each at the wrecking yard. They were factory items with 1 ton chevy trucks and easily lift a 1 ton truck plus they're infinitely adjustable. I won't crawl around under the bus with them in place, but they hold it up just fine if I level it with the air system first.
Quote from: PP on September 01, 2017, 08:44:55 AM
Yes, that would go over real well in an RV park or someone's driveway haha ;D
Put on a gas company shirt and start digging. Nobody will ask questions.
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Just a review
Wood blocks are good; the thicker and wider the better. Cribbing is safer if possible. If lifting the rear, make sure to choc the front wheels.
Concrete blocks are scary! Non-reinforced concrete can crumble easily. Now, if you have solid, reinforce concrete blocks, that could be okay but may be a bit heavy.
High capacity pin stands would be the best. They are a little less convenient than the notched ones, but I can easily imagine one of those slipping. I could be a little paranoid there since I know that that design is commonly used in shops all over the place, but somehow they seem more appropriate for a car than a bus.
Lesser rated stands, screw jacks, mobile home stands, etc could be an option if you are just trying support the suspension and not lift the bus. Of course, you would really want to know the weights you are dealing with and not just guess that it's good enough. Also, be sure that the rating you are given is for one unit. Sometimes these types of things are sold given the weight rating for two.
Another option for home base is to build some ramps. There have been discussions of different methods for this before. Driving up on your leveling blocks could also give you enough safety clearance. Aside from wooden ones, I have seen where 1" thick stall mats were cut into strips to be piled up for leveling. Those things look like they are indestructible, and piling 6 or 8 of them together would give you some decent space.
QuoteAside from wooden ones, I have seen where 1" thick stall mats were cut into strips to be piled up for leveling. Those things look like they are indestructible, and piling 6 or 8 of them together would give you some decent space.
Thanks! I'm ordering those. Inexpensive and surely the safest material. solid rubber mats surely are the strongest and most durable material. One of these should make a pair quite well.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rubber-mat-black-4-ft-x-6-ft (https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rubber-mat-black-4-ft-x-6-ft)
I put a bunch of those stall mats on my garage floor to keep it a little warmer in the winter, plus i don't like to stand on concrete for more than a few minutes. I did leave an area open so i can pull a car or truck in and jack it up without crushing the mats.
Made a bit of progress on a short-term plan - just wanting a bit of feedback to see if this sounds workable.
I've got two stacks of oak blocks, each piece is 7" x 7" x 2". They've got a dowel pin in the middle of each to keep them from sliding when putting under the bus, and I've got a 3/8" thick piece of plate steel to place on top to keep the bus suspension from cutting into the wood.
In the rear I'm planning to place these under the point where the engine cradle meets the rear bulkhead. That point measure about 10-1/2" when aired up.
For the front, I'm planning to place these under the front of the radius arms, at the point they mount to the body. The measurement there is just over 5" to the ground when aired up.
There is not a jack stand which is low enough, so I'm hoping to use these as a blocking method for the times I have to either reach or slide underneath. Eventually I plan to get some ramps for home use, but even that won't help if there is need to get under the bus while on the road. I'm not planning to jack up the bus when using these, I just want some type of safety in case there is a failure of the air system while I've got a body part underneath.
Richard
I use 2" x 8" boards- 4 high nailed together. Granted they are heavy, but never have had a failure.
I like being able to sit upright under my bus. Only place I have to lie down is under the engine.
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Quote from: Zephod on September 22, 2017, 04:55:32 PM
I like being able to sit upright under my bus. Only place I have to lie down is under the engine.
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The school buses are good for getting under but these air controlled ,come up when you start it boogers, Not so much.
Quote from: muldoonman on September 22, 2017, 05:06:43 PM
The school buses are good for getting under but these air controlled ,come up when you start it boogers, Not so much.
I kinda like air brakes but I'll tell you this for nothing... I am not so keen on any other air stuff. My air seat on the work bus needs constant inflating. Air suspension might give a smooth ride but doesn't really help on rough roads and raised level crossings as it doesn't raise a coach high enough.
My own school bus has hydraulic brakes, leaf suspension, a dt466 and is as primitive as can be. I love it that way.
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Quote from: Zephod on September 22, 2017, 06:26:23 PM
...Air suspension might give a smooth ride ...
And that's exactly the reason I bought a coach and not a school bus. I have driven school buses both old (very old) and new . They all had spring suspensions. I've driven coaches both old and new, and they all had air suspension. There is a huge difference between the two setups in comfort and drive-ability.
As a kid I fell in love with riding Trailways across the country. I loved the way they seemed to float down the highway. I was usually disappointed when we got to our stop because that meant I had to get off. Now I've got my own (former) Trailways coach and am very happy that it has the air suspension. I'm glad that the school bus you've got works for you and that you enjoy working on it. It wouldn't work for me - the only associations I have with school buses are, well, going to school. Not too many good times riding the bus to school for me, bouncing around in the back of the bus dreading every minute.
All the maintenance and effort my coach takes is well worth it to me. I wasn't aiming for simple - I was aiming for comfort and that feeling of floating down the road. Simple is good and I would never add complications just for the sake of adding them, but I think that the payoff outweighs the effort. In this case it really isn't even a complication, just a few steps to keep me from being crushed should a component fail.
Richard