So I was washing down the roof with purple power to get it ready for paint, and the cleaner was turning the roof orange. Not the coating, but just a top layer. I could scrub and rinse it and it was fine, though not cutting the moss like patches. I thought I had moss or something growing up there, but isn't it, it's something else. It seems to be in between the two layers of roof coating. Very strange. Going to scrub it some more and roll on enamel.
Aluminum corrosion, get out the wire brush and drill baby drill.
Algae and moss. I use roundup in a spray bottle. Spray especially at laps. Wait until it disappears and then wash it all again and it should not come back.
Or Clorox. Or comet and scrub brush. Or pull into a golf course and spray liberally with Roundup.lol
Being someone who has some auto body paint experience my reaction is to always do a good job in prep. Not sure how that carries across when applying elastometric material but it seems likely it will adhere best when the surface is very clean, free of all, chemicals and oils, and maybe even have some texture roughness. If that is the case, read the MSDS sheet and data sheet, you'll want to sand all surface area, remove all visible corrosion, and use a paint prep solution to remove any wax, grease, chemicals.
Quote from: windtrader on August 06, 2017, 10:19:10 PMBeing someone who has some auto body paint experience my reaction is to always do a good job in prep. Not sure how that carries across when applying elastometric material but it seems likely it will adhere best when the surface is very clean, free of all, chemicals and oils, and maybe even have some texture roughness. If that is the case, read the MSDS sheet and data sheet, you'll want to sand all surface area, remove all visible corrosion, and use a paint prep solution to remove any wax, grease, chemicals.
I used "Bus-Kote". http://hytechsales.com/howtopaint/painting_rv.html (http://hytechsales.com/howtopaint/painting_rv.html) They recommend a prep very much like you suggested and then a coat of their primer called "Hy-Tech #1220 Bond-It". After the primer has dried, they suggest at least two thin coats of the elastomeric white coat. After that, they suggest a coat of their clear sealer, "Flexi-Clear". That's what I did and it seems to have dropped my interior temps significantly while the vehicle is in the sun. They claim a ceramic additive to the coating provides reflective heat reduction and a further heat reduction by insulation.
Spent quality time scrubbing it down, man it wrecks my nerves being up there.... I'll go over it again two more times with water/bleach from a pump sprayer.
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"Hours of preparation adds years to the life of a paint job". That's good work you're doing there -- there's no way around it. And when a bus owner is doing a roof, it's important to remember that a quality job will have to provide good weather sealing, insulation, and paint that works dependably for a long time. (The real kicker is that the only way to find out that you did a job that "wasn't quite good enough" is when you see the finish peel off and there's water running down your interior walls. That's not good!) And wait until you get to be my age -- anything over 4 feet seems dangerously high off the ground!
Keep up the good work!
Thankfully I have a patient daughter that worked with me to sand the area above the drip rail. There was some sort of gobbed on seam sealer between the roof and the drip rail ( 6 inches above the rail, 2 below the roof panels), so I hopped in the bucket of the front end loader and went down both sides with the DA sander to knock the edge down with her driving. I think we'll do the same thing this evening to spray it down with bleach. Lots of work, but like you said, it does take time to do it right. I tell my wife, i don't need to spent hours and hours every day to get it done, i just need to get one thing done every day on it so we can get on the road.
Quote from: j.m.jackson on August 07, 2017, 06:37:35 AMThankfully I have a patient daughter that worked with me to sand the area above the drip rail. There was some sort of gobbed on seam sealer between the roof and the drip rail ( 6 inches above the rail, 2 below the roof panels), so I hopped in the bucket of the front end loader and went down both sides with the DA sander to knock the edge down with her driving. I think we'll do the same thing this evening to spray it down with bleach. Lots of work, but like you said, it does take time to do it right. I tell my wife, i don't need to spent hours and hours every day to get it done, i just need to get one thing done every day on it so we can get on the road.
Yep! That's getting it done! It's the slow, steady work discipline that ends up working in the end. If your experience is like mine, a gob of seam sealer is likely to mean that there's problem that's being covered up -- a crack, or a spot where the metal was bent leaving a void, or lap joint that's moved around, etc. -- and that's a place I want to look at carefully. On the other hand, it's often where somebody who wasn't knowledgeable or was careless slapped a bunch of it where it wasn't even needed. Still, I pay attention to that.
It's odd, it seems to just be there out of the blue. This looks like a 12" wide piece of steel sheeting between the top of the windows and the roof. Some places it's smooth, others it's gobbed on 3/8 of an inch thick. No cracks at all, so i'll sand it smooth. This is the spot where i'll mount an awning at some point.
Got the roof coating done with 2 coats, definite improvement. I used the Blackjack product from Lowes, went on like mayonnaise or paste with a 3/4 nap roller.
Also, my father in law is holding those front AL trim pieces for the headlights hostage. Got to get them back from him.
First coat. You'll notice that I'm not painting the center strip yet. I can't do the sides and center on the same weekend (ladder access to roof). Did I mention I don't like getting up there. Thankfully the FauxAC area at the back provides a nice stepping off point for a ladder.