Anyone know of a decent 4106 front axle? I pulled the front axle on my 4106 to do a sheppard conversion and broke one of the lower control arm bolts.
I've been trying over six weeks off and on to remove the bracket so I can machine out the bolt but no dice. Its well and truly frozen. Oxy torch plus hammer/air chisel has no effect other than bending stuff. Kroil for two weeks, nothing. At this point, I'm willing to take a little vacation from central Texas and bring back another axle if I can find one. Its too hot here anyway :)
On the other hand the 24volt conversion went pretty well.
-Tom P.
Rather than remove the broken piece, why not drill it out as far as you can and retap it. This method has saved my bacon many times,, if it won't work your only out some labor.>>>Dan ( If the king pin bushings and other parts are worth saving, it would be a shame to toss it for a broken bolt)
Since you'll need to remove axle anyway, how about taking it to a machine shop or heavy truck repair shop? They may have some ideas or equip. to fix it.
As far as an axle, Luke had a 4106 in bus parts row the last time I was there. He could probably fix your problem btw. Great guy to meet.
Yes I thought about Luke. Long way from Texas but a possibility. And yep, great guy for sure.
The KP and S-cam bushings could use a refreshing which was part of the plan.
Drilling by and retapping by hand is going to be difficult at best The plan was to drill/tap two new holes on the mill.
I could go down a size or two and put a smaller bolt through the old bolt but that is more of an emergency fix and
not a comfort inspiring permanent one.
If I can't find a usable front axle by end of summer I may have to get creative.
-Tom P.
In this situation I just drill a pilot hole and keep going bigger until the bolt material is so thin you can pound out what's left. Very time consuming.
--Geoff
Quote from: Geoff on July 14, 2017, 07:15:55 AM
In this situation I just drill a pilot hole and keep going bigger until the bolt material is so thin you can pound out what's left. Very time consuming.
--Geoff
Possibly, if he used the acetone/ATF mix to soak it first, the drilling might release the bolt...even if it's partially melted. Has never failed me.
I have also had very good results with a LEFT HAND wound drill bit for removing the "stump".>>>D
Well considering a 1inch air impact broke the high strength bolt off would acetone/atf be able to free that? I thought about drilling/tapping small hole and forcing some sort of fluid into it to try and help free up the threads. Maybe nitro glycerin.
Things like this i drill a small hole in it heat everything up then use a can of "spray duster" from the office supply or walmart, hold the can upside down, and use the red spray straw to blast super cold liquid into the hole causing it to shrink rapidly. The spray air will shoot freezing liquid when held upside down. 80% of the time this works for me.
I was trying to replace the front Bump stops. The back ones were easy. Front ones the rubber is gone so I was trying to unscrew the plate with the bolt through it and of course it snapped off. can not drill it out because there is only 4 inches between the stop shelf and the upper frame where it hits. Other than moving the whole front axle there is no way to drill it. There is about 3/16" sticking up of the bolt but not enough to grab with the vice grips and can not weld a nut onto it because there are airbags on each side.
I will be watching this thread closely. :'(
Darkspeed have you tried the candle wax and a lighter yet. That has worked for me before. Like soldering copper, you hold the heat under or over depending where you need to draw the wax into then hold the wax at the other end and it draws it in. Once in it will turn out pretty easy. :D
If that bolt is a grade 8, drilling it is going to be a real pita. Since it also needs kingpins attended to, just pull the axle. That can afford more possibilities. When fixed or replaced, then clean and paint. It'll look better than 99 percent of our coaches axles.
Quote from: fortyniner on July 14, 2017, 06:24:48 PM
Well considering a 1inch air impact broke the high strength bolt off would acetone/atf be able to free that? I thought about drilling/tapping small hole and forcing some sort of fluid into it to try and help free up the threads. Maybe nitro glycerin.
I do not claim to understand how it works...but 1:1 ratio of pure acetone and ATF is amazing. Someone had mentioned the acetone might draw the ATF into the threads as it dissipates, breaking up any rust/corrosion and leaving the ATF to free the seized bolt. All I know is that I have seen it work when nothing else would. Dad used it for years when his overly strong arm and short temper would bust head bolts...wheel bolts etc... and he also drilled a tap hole for traction, for lack of a better word.
There might be a You Tube video explaining it. I'll check and see. UPDATE: Here is Paw Paw (funny redneck) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkDSbyblhdk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkDSbyblhdk) and Here it is used to un seize a farm engine:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKwEq72A0Fo
Had never thought of it that way, but why not?
It does no damage, so if it doesn't work, you can still do whatever you like.
However you decide to tackle it, I also think a coating of some kind...paint is not a bad idea either. I am filing that idea in my little book.
Quote from: chessie4905 on July 15, 2017, 03:40:45 AM
If that bolt is a grade 8, drilling it is going to be a real pita. Since it also needs kingpins attended to, just pull the axle. That can afford more possibilities. When fixed or replaced, then clean and paint. It'll look better than 99 percent of our coaches axles.
Grade 8 bolts get their strength from the outside of the bolt, the center is still drillable. Home Depot sells cobolt drill bits which are incredible on hard steel but very touchy as any bending breaks them. I haven't tried the acetone/tranny fluid trick, I never have any luck with penetrating oils. Something that needs to be mentioned is when putting bolts and pins in they should be coated in NeverSieze so they don't rust in place the next time.
--Geoff
Drill all the way through the remaining bolt and use some sort of easy out. A magnetic drill press makes the drilling a heck of a lot easier. Drilling completely through the stud helps release it.
Ok, Ill dril a small hole and inject acetone/atf. then drill it out further and see if an easy out do it. If this works it will blow my mind :)
Let us know when the bit or easy out breaks.btdt
If you can transport the axle,I would transport it to a good machine shop .They will have drill presses and ways to block this thing to where it won' t move while it is being worked on,which is of utmost importance .These fellows are miracle workers
If the threads are stuck so tight that the head of the bolt wrung off, I have never had any success with an e-z out.
I have had success with welding onto the stub sticking out to get it as hot as possible (and give the vice grips something to grip) - then turn it with the vice grips until it sticks again. Weld on it some more & repeat . . . .
A snug fitting washer helps keep the weld off the tapped part . . .
Good luck !