I've been doing some butt welding with 6011 rods. They should flow more consistently than they are. The amperage is right. I'm not moving the rod too fast. I see a very nice weld.
When I grind the weld down flush there are places under the weld where the rod has not flowed into the crevices well. It's the lack of consistency that puzzles me. It all should be fine. Right rod, right amperage, right speed. Surfaces are bare steel.
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Yes theres been something going on there pardner but!
Whats the metal, to get me inline here a bit. Maybe general mild steel or what
as its painted it looks now.
So are we using ac or dc and what amp setting with the 6011 ? Dia
Practice practice they say
Prep is important.
try more amps & / or more voltage
then try less & compare the results. . . .
He is long arcing the 6011 is a short arc rod ,if they are old stock they need to be dipped in water for a few seconds. ;D just me but I think he needs practice and a lot of it
70A AC 3/32 rod. Been dry stored. Steel is clean.
Not sure of the grade. It was angle and flat bought from Tractor supply.
Yes, it's now primed. I welded both sides.
It's the door to my ventilation unit.
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Quote from: luvrbus on June 23, 2017, 07:56:54 PM
He is long arcing the 6011 is a short arc rod ,if they are old stock they need to be dipped in water for a few seconds. ;D just me but I think he needs practice and a lot of it
it's called dig rod...it digs thru paint and rust and pipe coating...you name it. can't dig with a long arc. push to feed farmer rod. we called it 1109 rod :)
Arc welding is really hard. Get a wire feed welder-you'll be much more pleased with the results and the weld quality.
Looks like you can use more amps (heat). The welds look too cold.
First he needs to know how to work a puddle -- and it makes wire feed soo much prettier.
This is farmer welder advice so take it for what its worth:
- 6011 is a genuine PITA to learn to use and really hard to get it to leave a nice finish
- I use 6011 on dirty metal and for root passes but I never finish with it
- as others have suggested - more amps and probably a bit slower travel - learn to manage the puddle
Bottom line - unless you have a good reason to use the 6011 ------- don't. Its great for what its meant for but its sure as hell not a general purpose rod.
I do however quarrel with the advice to get a MIG. A trained monkey can make a good looking weld with a MIG but for honest to goodness repair welding you need a buzz box. And just because the MIG weld looks nice doesn't mean its got any penetration or strength. I've got both and so does any decent welding shop. Not that I put myself in that category.
Get yourself some 6013 rod and learn to run a proper bead with proper penetration (i.e. learn penetration and puddle control). Practice on pieces of scrap. You don't need a butt joint to practice. Flat plate will do just fine.
When those welds were made the noise was an irregular crackle. When it is done right the noise is almost always a smooth sizzle.
The guys in my shop used to weld thousands of tons of steel parts each year and when you walked by a welder his work sounded smooth and consistent. When a guy was making a lousy weld you didn't even have to look. You could hear it.
I don't care for the 6011 it's a combo AC/DC rod and I prefer DC for stick welding,you can tell he is long arcing the splatter is all over his metal,I prefer the 7018 it more of a drag rod instead of a push rod,the 6013 maybe the best rod for him since it is not a all position rod the 6013 is just used for flat welding
Started years ago stick welding. Then discovered wire feed MIG and used that mostly for a while. Now I am back to the buz box. More penetration, more control, more challenge, more fun. And it still looks like farm welding. lol.
JC
Quote from: luvrbus on June 24, 2017, 06:50:34 AM
I don't care for the 6011 it's a combo AC/DC rod and I prefer DC for stick welding,you can tell he is long arcing the splatter is all over his metal,I prefer the 7018 it more of a drag rod instead of a push rod,the 6013 maybe the best rod for him since it is not a all position rod the 6013 is just used for flat welding
I prefer the 7014 but... I have a pile of 6011 and 6013 to use up. One day I'll get to joining stainless to mild with my 312 rods but that's a different project.
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I hate it when that happens. If this particular weld is cosmetic and not structural--say like a hatch frame, it'll probably be OK. If there is ANY load on the weld grind it all out and do it again after a little practice with the puddle. I also noticed your weld line isn't always following the seam but skipping around a bit. Back grinding the edges to be butt welded goes better if you grind back the edges 45 degrees to the mid thickness of the material--both sides if possible. As best I can tell, either stick or mig will get the job done equally well given knowledge of both the material and the rod (wire) you are working with.
Jack
I would recommend that you look for a welding course for beginners at a local vocational school or community college so that you can get on the spot guidance. One of your problems, beyond the wrong rod for the situation, is your vision of the welding puddle, and the steadiness of the arc length. Good welding helmets with auto-darkening and adjustable levels of darkness would help you see what is going on better. They are expensive, but very useful. The welding unit you have might only be AC with a short duty cycle like 10-20%, units that have AC and DC + or - with longer duty cycles can keep you going over long welds. Again, that costs money as well, but good used units can be found. I am still using a Lincoln Idealarc 250 that I bought used in 1984 at an auction.