I have my MC5B entry door with driver control handle and air lock intact. I would like to add a professional quality door lock to use when away and when I am in house. I do like the driver control and want to keep that, but do away with the has and padlock that screams I am away from bus. I heard freightliner handle may work, but I want a good plan before I cut stainless. Anyone put in a good looking and functioning lock?
I don't know if it will work for you, but we have a regular house deadbolt lock.
Quote from: Lin on March 22, 2017, 11:32:19 AM
I don't know if it will work for you, but we have a regular house deadbolt lock.
me too.
Same here.
Just a thought about a different approach. You could mount a hinged box with a camlock or something similar over your current rod/lock. You would not have to modify the door, the rod and padlock (if you choose to still use one) would be hidden giving no hint of your absence. Most people would not even know it has anything to do with opening the door.
You could even use something like a locked box that realtors use on for sale houses by opening up the back and mounting it over the rod. It could be keyed or just have a combination.
Here is the door latch/lock system that I intend to install on my entry door.
I think it provides the best overall convenience/safety!
Hopefully this site doesn't disappear anytime soon.
http://www.coachconversioncentral.com/FAST%20FRED.htm (http://www.coachconversioncentral.com/FAST%20FRED.htm)
We used a Tri-mark outside handle with rods inside the door with a pinch lock inside the door.
http://www.eberhard.com/details/passenger-restraints/206-series (http://www.eberhard.com/details/passenger-restraints/206-series)
Regular door dead bolt.
Do note the depth of the door, some won't take the normal big box available pieces, and requires a little more sleuthing to get the right length.
For your door seals to snug tight with the air lock, be sure your alternate locking/door handle mechanism efforts are positioned for success.
No one comes on here bragging they screwed up and now listen to the wind whistling.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Thanks all for the info and advice. I am trying to avoid the residential deadbolt look. To keep my current handle and airlock, which I really like, I am thinking I need some sort of surface mounted, adjustable compression latch with a lock. I am sorting through aircraft lift and turn versions. They are durable, aerodynamic and come in many sizes. I am very leery of cutting into my door frames. I would prefer to engage the latch only when I am away and at that time I am not using my internal handle to compress the door. I want the external look to be the same whether I am inside or away. The hasp and padlock are a dead giveaway I am trying to avoid.
Ken -
My MC-5C came from the factory with locks on the front door, fuel door, battery box door, all four baggage bins, and the two exterior compartments under the driver - all keyed the same. Double-sided Ford keys. IIRC, all the parts are listed in the parts book, but I'd have to look this weekend.
If you'd like photos of the installation, send me a PM with your email address, as this forum doesn't handle large format photos well.
FWIW & HTH. . .
;)
My DL3 just uses a Ford pickup doubled sided keyed lock on the door came from the factory.
The store front locks you see at malls and other places make a good lock and look good only about a 1/4 of a inch showing on the door I don't care for for the residential house type locks on a bus.I used a Clockson on the Eagle it was a good lock but was real pricey from Prevost
And as for the inside of the door...
From the seated coach world, the vagrants know to break/pop-out the door window and reach in to unlock the door...
keyed both sides has its benefits?
happy coaching!
buswarrior
I went to big rig recycling yard, found an over-cab Mack (with outside key & inside lock in mechanism) removed all parts including striking plate. This I installed on my 4106, to keep the driver door opener I installed a electric trunk release on the release rod. Works like a charm after I go it adjusted.
Quote from: silversport on March 24, 2017, 12:43:46 PM
I went to big rig recycling yard, found an over-cab Mack (with outside key & inside lock in mechanism) removed all parts including striking plate. This I installed on my 4106, to keep the driver door opener I installed a electric trunk release on the release rod. Works like a charm after I go it adjusted.
I likes that idea! ;)
I used the original manual door lock, which can't be opened from the outside and added a key operated opening mechanism.