Does anyone have any experience with these ZXLY brand aluminum wheels? They would come out about $30 cheaper per wheel as compared to the Accuride 28615 wheels which I currently have two of.
Thoughts?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/22-5-x-8-25-STUD-Pilot-10X285-75-Semi-Forged-Truck-Alcoa-Styles-FREE-SHIPPING-/171743894145?var=&hash=item27fcbbda81:m:mBHNX1A50OHzZUQHIJIacTg&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/22-5-x-8-25-STUD-Pilot-10X285-75-Semi-Forged-Truck-Alcoa-Styles-FREE-SHIPPING-/171743894145?var=&hash=item27fcbbda81:m:mBHNX1A50OHzZUQHIJIacTg&vxp=mtr)
I would be buying two for the front axle and two for the drive axle.
I would stay with the Accuride or Alcoa all the wheels I see in the scrap yards are those Chinese made wheels
Quote from: luvrbus on February 11, 2017, 08:22:27 AM
I would stay with the Accuride or Alcoa all the wheels I see in the scrap yards are those Chinese made wheels
I was thinking that was likely the answer, but wanted to ask...
After the hell I went through last year trying to get a couple new wheels for my steers, I would stick with Accuride. I had them try pawning off wheels from China and Vietnam as Accuride. Both were junk. I finally did the job for the Royal Tire manager and got the steel Accurides and they are wonderful. I gave up on trying to find Aluminum. Nobody here knew what I was talking about when I said stud pilot.
Yeah - I've found the same problem with people not knowing about stud piloted wheels. I've done the leg work myself to figure out what is required.
As RJ found out on his MC5 this winter, if you're running outer aluminum and inner steel, of course you'll need the longer inner nuts. But, you should also have the longer studs installed the hub to prevent twisting of the inner nuts when torqued on. If the stud doesn't come to the end of the inside of the nut, the nut can twist when torqued and can break off right at the end of the stud. RJ found several inner nuts broken off on a routine walk-around on morning.
Something to consider.