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Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: BeastMaster on January 23, 2017, 06:20:48 PM

Title: Removing Shocks and Air Springs
Post by: BeastMaster on January 23, 2017, 06:20:48 PM
Friends, again I come hoping for your help and wisdom. I'm replacing the shocks and air springs on my MCI 1989 102C3. I am doing the front first. I have the chassis blocked up and the axle blocked with blocks and 20T jacks.
Having problem getting the nuts off the shocks. Have been using PB Blaster and impact wrench, nothing yet. Any thoughts?
I would like to replace the air lines with push in nylon DOT lines - any words of wisdom doing this.

Thanks in advance, Allan
Title: Re: Removing Shocks and Air Springs
Post by: bobofthenorth on January 23, 2017, 06:37:51 PM
A sawzall is your best friend on the shock removal.
Title: Re: Removing Shocks and Air Springs
Post by: DoubleEagle on January 23, 2017, 07:30:37 PM
All that is left to do is to add heat, otherwise cut if off, or twist it off with a strong impact wrench. Even a Class 8 bolt will snap eventually, with enough torque.
Title: Re: Removing Shocks and Air Springs
Post by: Iceni John on January 23, 2017, 08:12:25 PM
I would prefer to use regular compression fittings for critical areas such as brakes and suspension, and use push-on fittings only for non-critical items such as accessories (seat, horn, door, wipers, air outlets, etc).   It's really important to ensure that air lines or PEX tubing cannot move at all where they enter push-on fittings, and they enter them absolutely straight without any angle.

John
Title: Re: Removing Shocks and Air Springs
Post by: HudsonMarine on January 23, 2017, 08:14:31 PM
Being an industrial machinery mechanic for ,any years, one of our known tricks for frozen fasteners is bees wax. Just warm the fastener with a torch (propane, map, etc), and melt the bees wax into it. It works many time that penetrants fail.
Title: Re: Removing Shocks and Air Springs
Post by: BeastMaster on January 23, 2017, 08:20:47 PM
Thanks John. I was leaning that way also. I'll take a look at the solid lines and what shape they are in.
Concerning the shocks.... looks like the front shocks on an MCI 102 are mounted on studs or pins vice bolts. I can try and cut the nut, but afraid to snap the stud. I'll try heating the nut tomorrow. Thanks.
Allan
Title: Re: Removing Shocks and Air Springs
Post by: B_K on January 24, 2017, 09:02:48 AM
Allan yes heat is going to be your best bet. Might try HudsonMarine's suggestion of bees wax. (I have never heard of using it that way, but I learn something new every day and will be trying it in the near future!)

Also I agree with John on the push in fittings!

At some point or another connections in the push in fittings start to leak! Usually if they are in a moving/flexing environment they leak SOONER than later.

In some cases they can be fixed simply by correctly removing the air line and cutting of the end and re-inserting it.
Other times either the line, the fitting or both have to be replaced.

Very few of the push in fittings have been approved by DOT for the simple fact they don't last like compression fittings. So IF YOU USE THEM make sure the ones you use are DOT approved or don't use them on brakes, air bags or anything safety related.
;D  BK  ;D
Title: Re: Removing Shocks and Air Springs
Post by: daddysgirl on January 24, 2017, 09:21:08 AM
Beeswax does work well with heat. Just make sure you get it off while the wax is still warm...or you'll have to heat it up again.
It's also fantastic on skin abrasions.