I am redoing my bedroom (Scott & Heather's fault) and think this would be a good time to replace my Air compressor and have the Alternator serviced. The Engine manual doesn't the removal and installation of these items. I have read something in years past about a fiber gear vs. a metal gear. What should I do about these gears and where are they. Are there any othe things I should do while removing and installing an air compressor and Alternator on my engine?
Thanks in advance for the sharing of your wisdom and experience.
Art
My set up is different than yours, but IMHO, as you replace the bedroom.. it might be a good idea to leave access to rear engine panels. Even if you just use screws, they can be removed easily should you ever need access. You just never know :)
Do you have the 50DN and TruFlo 700?
I have an access panel, but is under the bed. So, I'm going to take advantage of not having to worry about how much mess I'm going to make in the process. I have a 2 month trip from Noeth Carolina to Alaska planned for the Summer of 2018, so I want to do preventive maintenance.
Art
You have the steel drive gear,if the compressor is not pumping oil leave it alone you roll the dice with a rebuilt compressor anyways.Do you still have 2 alternators on your NJT Eagle ?
I've heard about the steel gear taking out the drive train of gears on that end of the engine. So, is there a fiber gear that will act like a shear pin? Where can I find one.
The 24v alternator was removed with the coach AC.
The fiber drive gear has been gone for 40 years,the compressors have a shear key now to prevent the drive from breaking
Lol. Art, do tell :)
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The compressor is not the problem, if you have the gear driven alternator it should come off and replace the bearing that is a bomb waiting to go off
Scott, after seeing your conversion and the foam insulation, I decided to tear out my bedroom and start over with foam. I had some rotten floor that needed attention, some water leaks and a portion of a wheel well that needed attention to damage done by a blowout.
Luvrbus, Yes I'm planning to service the alternator also. Any other suggestions while I have easier access?
Nice! Do post photos of the process!!
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If the 24v alternator was removed, then that is the alternator that is often gear driven and can cause problems. So if you don't have it, you don't have the potential problem - but what alternator do you have and where is it and how is it driven?
Brian
I am not trying to snag into Art's post, but I have the 24v gear driven thing (I say this due to the lack of any belt, and the pictures from the manual are the same)
I just made a new harness for it, and even painted it too. What about a time bomb? The thought of anything happening to that beast is not a happy one. I'm not even sure it would fit through the access, and it weighs nearly as much as I do.
The bearings in the 50DN alternators are quite prone to "letting go" if they are not serviced on a regular schedule.
Many people over look them due to the fact A) it's hidden back there is never land. B) that huge alternator weighs a ton. C) it's very hard to remove via the access panel it barely fits thru (and only when turned just the right way) D) most feel "if it ain't broke why fix it?"
Well Clifford, myself and several busnuts that have seen the damage first hand that it can cause when a ball bearing drops out of it and locks up the gears on the back of the engine doing MASSIVE damage that will cost MEGA bucks to fix.
So if you have no idea when the last time the bearings were changed in that big ol' thing it's a good idea to pull it out and either order the parts and do it yourself, or take it to a reputable rebuilder and have it rebuilt.
;D BK ;D
85 lbs of HELL.
Mine has grease fittings, air cooled, belt driven.
Do the gear drives have the same grease pipes?
happy coaching!
buswarrior
I understand the gear drive alternators get their oil drained through the gear mount, but still have an external oil feed line. My oil cooled belt drive has three oil lines which are a PITA and leak, one is pressurized oil feed, one is a 1" ID oil drain line down to the sump, and one is a vent to the cylinder head. No grease fittings.
Brian
Maybe there is a belt I just can't see? (Helplessly hoping)
There is roughly 50-60k miles on that engine.
IF I do indeed find the ability to take it out, should I have it rebuilt, put a different unit on? If so, where?
I do NOT want issues with that monster.
Thoughts?
More than likely yours is gear driven.
I don't no where you are located and therefore have no idea if I have a suggestion of who to take it to for you.
But you might want to check out kirksauto.com I have bought many products from them and have been extremely happy. (sometimes you can buy stuff from them on Ebay cheaper than you can online. & I have also bought brand new Kirk's stuff from other sellers on Ebay that bought it, stocked it and never used it.)
Either way directly or thru Ebay I have never been disappointed with Kirk's products.
Now as far as getting that heavy sucker out. I usually get it all unbolted except the top bolt which I lossen but leave in until I get ready to pull it completely out.
Disconnect connections and oil lines.
Now get a helper. IIRC you have a good source of strong back weak mind labor. (teenage son)
Next get an old belt (man's waist belt) or similar device and put the loop around the alt. grab the other end and pull up on it while removing that last bolt.
One person will need to kneel at the hole guiding the alt. while the other stands and lifts it up and out of the hole.
Be sure to have a large trash bag or something to sit it on and wrap it with for removal from the bus because not only is it big and heavy, but it's most likely going to be NASTY GREASY too!
;D BK ;D
daddysgirl, there's hope, both of my 1975 MC8's are belt drive.
Back of the engine, furthest from the rear bumper, look thru the street side side door, the belts and the alternator are hanging up in there.
Then, identify the grease gun fitting for the bearing in each end, on both ends of the beast, they go in perpendicular to the shaft, about 3-4 inches long, as they go right into the heart of the thing. Either remove and replace with a traditional Zerk, or find the matching fitting for your grease gun. Either the fitting comes off, or the whole pipe will wind out, doesn't matter. Prime the pipe with grease before re-install.
One of mine has a slick air filter mounted on it, the other just has a metal shield. Put a fresh filter, if it has one.
And the 4 belts were commonly purchased as a matched set, cut from the same stock... MCI $$$$
happy coaching!
buswarrior
I can see the beast (luckily, newly painted and free of road grime) from the curb side door, but nary a belt. The blower motor and associated lines are there. There is also a wide strap looking thing, but it doesn't have belts (That I can see) From the left side, there is some kind of adjustment bar, and the beast bolts up to that, and directly to what looks like the bottom of a tree, for lack of a better descriptor.
Ya know, I'm going to find a picture.
Quote from: daddysgirl on January 16, 2017, 08:44:28 AM
I can see the beast (luckily, newly painted and free of road grime) from the curb side door, but nary a belt. The blower motor and associated lines are there. There is also a wide strap looking thing, but it doesn't have belts (That I can see) From the left side, there is some kind of adjustment bar, and the beast bolts up to that, and directly to what looks like the bottom of a tree,[/b]
for lack of a better descriptor.
Ya know, I'm going to find a picture.
That what looks like the tree trunk is a support that helps hold that heavy alt. in place.
I have seen many times where a mechanic was plain too lazy to put that support back in place which is very hard on the bolts, case and gasket/seals just letting all that weight hang off the bolts.
The wide strap is most likely a ground strap.
;D BK ;D
Thanks for all the suggestions and the weight. Being I going to remove both the Alternator and Air Compressor. Which one should I remove first? And which should I install first?
BK, thanks for the information and the belt idea. I going to attempt to borrow a A-Frame that is used to remove engines from boats and a come-a-long
The Eagle Model 20 didn't have a 24 vdc system. It had a 24 v alternator that feed the 24 volt HVAC fan motors and a few other motors like water pumps for the dash heat. The alternator was belt driven off the "front" of the engine at the rear of the bus.
Again, thanks for the info and suggestions.