Heading out west from GA as soon as the Bus is ready.
Here is the advice I remember from posts I have read.
Either pull the engine or use a transmission dolly to do the job.
I have the manual with the descriptions and diagrams.
The clutch failed shut and I have driven it by starting it in gear after it is aired up.
It is an MC7 with manual 4 speed spicer and 8v71
Any last minute advice I can pass along to the mechanic.
The 7's are a easy clutch change without removing the engine all he needs to do is get it high enough for clearance, any transmission jack will work he doesn't the MCI dolly. You are are going to spend some bucks just before Christmas those friggn clutches are getting expensive and it not releasing will add a throw out collar and bearing since it has went through the clutch fingers
Where are people going for parts these days?
I am on my way to the mechanic right own. How can I identify which clutch I have. THere are two in the manual I think they are called lype and lye or something like that.
I have the same engine and transmission in my 1975 Eagle. Back in the nineties my throw-out bearing went bad, I got it back home and jacked it up in my gravel driveway on wood block cribbing. You have to have it up high enough for the transmission to clear when it is sitting on whatever transmission jack you have. I used a tripod and chain lift through the engine covers inside the coach to support the clutch and flywheel. It could have lowered the transmission as well, but putting it back on is better with a rolling trans jack. It would be prudent to have everything checked out in the area while you have it apart - flywheel, clutch, throw-out bearing, transmission seals, driveshaft, etc. If you don't have part numbers, a good parts place can match it up if you bring it in.
Quote from: Dlsnow on December 08, 2016, 06:53:28 AM
Where are people going for parts these days?
I am on my way to the mechanic right own. How can I identify which clutch I have. THere are two in the manual I think they are called lype and lye or something like that.
Luke at US coach will have the parts so will Jefferson in OKC OkI think there are 2 sizes just remove it is about the only way to tell fwiw the last MCI clutch cost me $1300.00 plus freight
good luck
Hi;
I have one suggestion; - - - - When the new throw out bearing is installed, double check
that the grease hose is attached correctly. I lost one throw out bearing because the hose
came off. (expensive bearing) Then don't forget to grease it regularly. Every 10k miles
or when ever you grease the coach. The zerk fitting is located just under the alternator
on the bell housing and is often over looked. I am on my third throw out bearing and
learned this from experience.
As for the clutch, check with a local truck repair place to refer you to a local clutch
repair shop. Should not be a problem.
Good luck, Merle :D
(MC-7)
Thanks for the help everyone. Just got off phone with Luke at US Coach.
One thing i noticed a few days before the failure.
When pulling out from a gas station it studderd when i closed the clutch from stopped. It did this a couple times then wouldnt open anymore when I operated it.
Those clutches are made by Long for MCI, Luke was probably your best bet if he had one $$$$
I have the complete deal from my MC-5C, in good shape I think. Let me know if you think it can help. I was planning to save it until my automatic is proven to work, but I could let it go.
Brian
Bus is parked over the pit. I am hoping that they get the transmission removed and clutch parts identified today. I will post with any questions or updates as progress is made.
You guys are awesome.
I have attached a picture of the fingers of the clutch.
I am still waiting on the mechanics advice / parts list.
Please forgive me for being naieve but I am wondering if the fingers are the problem is it possible the Plate's, bearings and collar are fine?
No your throw bearing is shot and probably the collar to ,he may can save the disks but he will probably replace the complete assembly I would,the bearing froze is the reason the fingers are shot
When we consider the task "really", then the clutch is the cheap part.
These are best disassembled by a factory pro, that has access to a special table.
Where they can evenly clamp down to spec and replace and or adjust sections at different stages as required. Honestly there is no mechanic that has these setup tables.
Good day there
Floyd
Make sure you don't ride the clutch when it is engaged by using it as a foot rest while driving. Also make sure there is always the proper amount of freeplay in the linkage. The freeplay usually goes away as disc/s normally wear. Otherwise release bearing is constantly turning, leading to premature failure. Of course, lack of periodic lubrication is major cause.
The rebuilt clutch solenoid and alternator are installed. The clutch fingers needed to be adjusted so the transmission has to be pulled again but this job is close to done.
Thanks again to Like at US Coach for the finger adjustment diagnosis.
Quote from: Dlsnow on January 13, 2017, 01:48:01 PM
The rebuilt clutch solenoid and alternator are installed. The clutch fingers needed to be adjusted so the transmission has to be pulled again but this job is close to done.
Thanks again to Like at US Coach for the finger adjustment diagnosis.
HI;
How about an update. Is your clutch finished?? Are you back on the road? Would like
to hear about a happy ending to this story.
Merle
No update yet. It'll probably be a couple weeks before I am back out there
UPDATE!
The clutch job is done and aside from the air assist for the linkage it is working as expected.
I will rebuild the air assist as I purchased several of these rebuild kits from Luke and still have at least one laying around.
The linkage for the clutch have all been measured and adjusted to get back to the spec.
Here was the challenge
I did not buy a new clutch from Luke at US Coach - My clutch disk/plates were remanufactured/rebuilt
After reinstalling the rebuilt clutch i couldnt get into first from N (grinding)
Adjusted and double/triple checked linkage measurements
It turned out that the company rebuilding the clutch mislabeled the front plates direction - it was in backwards
I believe the shop dropped the transmission a total of 4 times to get this done.
So here is the damage
$550 for a complete rebuild of the generator
$809 for the clutch rebuild
$50 for Reverse Solenoid rebuild
$700 labor and misc (coolant, oil, filters, belts...)
I am going to pick it up this week and will
Quote from: Dlsnow on April 01, 2017, 02:05:23 AM
UPDATE!
The clutch job is done and aside from the air assist for the linkage it is working as expected.
I will rebuild the air assist as I purchased several of these rebuild kits from Luke and still have at least one laying around.
The linkage for the clutch have all been measured and adjusted to get back to the spec.
Here was the challenge
I did not buy a new clutch from Luke at US Coach - My clutch disk/plates were remanufactured/rebuilt
After reinstalling the rebuilt clutch i couldnt get into first from N (grinding)
Adjusted and double/triple checked linkage measurements
It turned out that the company rebuilding the clutch mislabeled the front plates direction - it was in backwards
I believe the shop dropped the transmission a total of 4 times to get this done.They didn't charge you for room and board for the bus???? LOL
So here is the damage
$550 for a complete rebuild of the generator
$809 for the clutch rebuild
$50 for Reverse Solenoid rebuild
$700 labor and misc (coolant, oil, filters, belts...)
I am going to pick it up this week and will
Big red Did david do this for you
if so any time you head there let me know and I will stop buy and chat.
uncle ned
Quote from: uncle ned on April 01, 2017, 05:57:16 PM
Big red Did david do this for you
if so any time you head there let me know and I will stop buy and chat.
uncle nedI will let you know the next time I head that way .Didn't realize you lived that close to him.
Quote from: Dlsnow on April 01, 2017, 02:05:23 AM
UPDATE!
Hi;
FWIW - - - - I think your costs are reasonable. Especially the labor costs.
That's my two cents worth.
Thanks for the update
Merle.
The clutch job is done and aside from the air assist for the linkage it is working as expected.
I will rebuild the air assist as I purchased several of these rebuild kits from Luke and still have at least one laying around.
The linkage for the clutch have all been measured and adjusted to get back to the spec.
Here was the challenge
I did not buy a new clutch from Luke at US Coach - My clutch disk/plates were remanufactured/rebuilt
After reinstalling the rebuilt clutch i couldnt get into first from N (grinding)
Adjusted and double/triple checked linkage measurements
It turned out that the company rebuilding the clutch mislabeled the front plates direction - it was in backwards
I believe the shop dropped the transmission a total of 4 times to get this done.
So here is the damage
$550 for a complete rebuild of the generator
$809 for the clutch rebuild
$50 for Reverse Solenoid rebuild
$700 labor and misc (coolant, oil, filters, belts...)
I am going to pick it up this week and will
Yes - I really think the price is great especially considering they received the clutch with the front plate mislabeled and had to do a lot of rework as a result.