Hi!
The engine on my bus doesn't start.
Previous owner said it could be the emergency shutoff switch and to reset it.
How do you do that?
I know there is some "thing" on the engine that needs to be pushed back and something pulled out but what's the actual way to do this?
(I know that was a very technical description lol)
Thanks for your help!
Matt
Matt,, on the upper left corner of your blower ,between the blower and the intake plenum,, you will see a small lever with a small round counter weight on the end of it.. Pull it down until it locks into place and stay's down,,you are now ready to start it.. Make sure the emergency switch is in the off position before turning on the ignition switch.>>>Dan
Great! Thanks so much!!!!
If anyone has to do the same:
It's the thing closer to the air blower that goes up and down vertically.
Not the one next to it on the left that goes somewhat horizontally.
And once you pulled it down and up it needs to lock back down in place otherwise the throttle wouldn't go past 1000rpm and make the engine sound like it chokes when you hit the gas.
Once it's back down it lets the engine run normally...
Yay!!!
Thanks Dan!
As a learning exercise perhaps you can spin the engine with the emergency shutter employed. Listen to the distinct sound it makes spinning, but getting no air. It will take two people to do this. Then exchange places so both can hear.
Then reset the emergency shutdown flap as already described, then hold the push to stop lever out. The engine will also spin but also not start. It will make a different type of cranking sound. Hard to describe. Easy to hear the difference.
The point being that once one hears it, the sound memory might serve you well. In the distant past, (around 1979) not knowing the sound difference by not being taught about it has had severe consequences. Just another learned skill.
If you have an older Detroit Diesel 2 stroke with the emergency shut down shutter, knowing the difference in the sound MAY prevent lots of bad things from happening. Low probability, but there you have it. Amazing what can happen.
Did you guys know Detroit sent a service bulletin in 1982 telling you use the spring loaded fuel rods and do away with emergency air shut down upon rebuild,they went into detail telling you how to remove the shaft and plug the holes where the shaft went through the housing fwiw
I also believe that "IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT" .>>>Dan
Quote from: Utahclaimjumper on November 20, 2016, 06:17:08 AM
I also believe that "IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT" .>>>Dan
Yea I know Dan but it was broke so DD did a fix same as with the blower drive,the shaft would wear the housing and allow dirt to enter the engine that is another reason they did away with the emergency air shut off
When I had Don Fairchild in Bakersfield turbo my 8V-71, he removed the emergency shut off. As a nice sideline, now I had a spare wire switched on the dash. I used that to activate my water solenoid for my radiator misters.
My 1980 KW with 8V-92TA did not have an emergency shut off. It did have a manual shut down pull lever in case the electric over air cylinder didn't work-which I used later in life when the solenoid shorted out and shut down the engine. Good Luck, TomC
About everyone except Dan will remove those,they are a air restriction too I wouldn't recommend removing it with the old 2 screw fuel rods though
Quote from: luvrbus on November 20, 2016, 08:16:40 AM
About everyone except Dan will remove those,they are a air restriction too I wouldn't recommend removing it with the old 2 screw fuel rods though
The old timers have told me...(most are gone now)... that the two screw rack can be tuned finer and better and smoother ...
You can bet I know how to set them so they won't back off.>>>Dan
Quote from: Utahclaimjumper on November 21, 2016, 06:06:23 AM
You can bet I know how to set them so they won't back off.>>>Dan
LOL I have them back off before using the DD torque specs everyone has except you Dan
What you don't have is drilled head bolts and safety wire.>>>Dan
Quote from: Utahclaimjumper on November 21, 2016, 09:10:37 AMWhat you don't have is drilled head bolts and safety wire.>>>Dan
A & E style ... I like it.
Seems like a waste of time to me but not a bad idea, why not just use the newer fuel rods with 1 screw a lock nut ?
Ok. Looks like you have fun with my post. ::)
Back to not working. :-(
I opened that panel next to the driver seat.
What a marvel of electrical engineering. Someone really went to town there.
And it was obviously not someone who knew about wires and other things.
Anyways...
The emergency switch has a lose wire and the rest seems to have power.
I am still struggling a little with reading the wire diagram and understand which component is what but we got some power.
The buzzer is working when I turn the main switch on but when I turn the starters switch nothing happens... :-(
No engine cranking.
Just the buzzer is rocking the RV storage facility with some awesome 60th buzzzzzz.
I put the emergency thing (one day I will learn all the engine parts in English) on the engine back how it's supposed to be (down and locked)... I don't think it was tripped but checked anyway.
Is that emergency switch wire supposed to be connected and have a current or only when the switch gets pushed? (In other words is it relevant to get that cable connected again?)
If that's not it what else can I do here besides updating the interior and reading the manual and try to make sense of the wiring diagram in my head?
Is there a way to get around the switches and start the engine (oh and I should mention there are to wired switches to start the engine from the engine compartment).
But assuming it was all working fine last week amd then it stopped working just to get the engine running last weekend and then not Sunday night....
One day (rather soon) I might rewire the whole thing and bring the beauty into this century (wiring-wise, that is)...
Ok that was a little long cry for help...
Matt
Any help would be great. Thanks!
The emergency shut down only activates when it gets power from the emergency switch on the dash.. Go to the electrical panel at the right rear corner of the coach and trace the small wire from the starter selinoid to this panel and the relay its connected to., You can momentarily apply 12 volts from any source in that panel to this wire to activate the starter,,in this manner you can determine if the problem is between this panel and the starter, or from this panel to the forward panel..>>>Dan ( When doing this make sure the trans is NOT in gear)
Thanks Dan!
The ground wire of the starter got lose. Once that was put back on correctly and the starter was tighten to the engine (yep, lose too.) the whole thing turned on just fine.
That electrical compartment Is in serious need of a re-wiring job.
Something to do for long winter evenings in the near future.
Off to a little weekend adventure tomorrow...
Happy Turkey Day everyone!
Matt