We are thinking of removing our Wrico 12K genset off the engine cooling system. It is installed on the curb side just in front of the engine compartment. There is a narrow spot between the genset and the wheel well where we could angle a radiator. Another option would be in the engine compartment under the air intake sucking air off the pavement. Any ideas of where we could find a radiator and fan for this set up? Any other easier ideas for mounting a radiator?
Don and Cary
You can probably get all you need from AutoZone unless you go with the 110v fan
There a ton of info on the forum about Wrico Gensets. Wrico's are very popular in the RV industry so you will get a lot of help on the Forum. Your other source is to call Dick Wright directly as he is an extremely helpful guy which is why some people buy his generators from him over and over again. If you have any problems with your Wrico genny, don't be afraid to call Dick directly as he is one of the best experts in the industry on the proper installation of Gensets. They don't call him the Generator Man for nothing. 451 744 4333
I have a 10kw Power tech Diesel with the radiator remote mounted. I have a belt driven squirrel cage blower with single intake with 1/2hp totally enclosed fan cooled 2spd. The radiator is mounted directly to the intake of the squirrel cage blower with the exhaust blowing out the side right under the driver's compartment. 2spd for high during the day, low for quiet night time. Works well-fan bought from Grainger's. Good Luck, TomC
Don I had heard many on the boards mentioning remote mounted radiators when a new situation comes up. This got me looking around a bit and I seen this link below from a Newell coach and so I was off figuring out how to build one that worked for me. This green thing in the picture seems to be an auxiliary pump to help move the antifreeze, possibly a good ways, that part I am still considering. It doesn't look as though I need it as yet but is a great thought and may implement it in a helper way.
Maybe this same photo link can help you also.
good luck
Floyd
http://image.trucktrend.com/f/57221661+q80+re0+cr1+ar0/generator-radiator.jpg (http://image.trucktrend.com/f/57221661+q80+re0+cr1+ar0/generator-radiator.jpg)
Don and Cary, Be careful when using a remote radiator to cool your generator. I have had a lot of trouble cooling my generator with a remote radiator. I suck air from between the front tires and discharge it out the bottom of the first bay. the only way I could get enough air is to but a grill behind the eagle on the front bumper and pipe air back to the radiator. I did a few things wrong when mounting the radiator ( like trying to turn the air to reduce noise and other things). I would think to use air from the road and near the rear of the bus is not a very good idea. The main reason for using the generator is to run the AC and that is on hot days to start with. For sure use a squirrel cage blower the bigger the better. Try and find some cooler air maybe on the side of the bus. You have your reasons for using a remote radiator but have you thought about using both? I know that you run the risk of losing all your coolant but with some valves you can design a system that will run on both radiators or one or the other. Use a circulator pump as mentioned by Floyd.
Wayne
There's some great points I would like to highlight both Tom and Rusty mention and somewhat that oneself has to figure out with fabricating a remote radiator with squirrel cage/centrifugal fan. This particular fan design requires a certain balance if ya will with air available and its intake size. Whatever air passage, box or tube and can change up at its beginning. This study and figuring is going to be related and a requirement really of the output/exhaust side, wherever it is. These areas and its restriction can in many motors as designed run perfect and efficiently at the amps listed on motor label, or not! and that's what I'm really trying to say.
good day
Floyd
The one thing about a remote radiator is you need to have the expansion tank at the highest point to quickly eliminate air bubbles. My expansion tank is right behind the driver's seat in my electrical cabinet. I built a wood box around it with a drain going out to the street in case of leak. Even with the high expansion tank, I have to run and burp the generator around 5 times before it will successfully cool itself. I found an auxiliary water pump was not needed. Good Luck, TomC
Mine was mounted between the 2 front bays on the Eagle with a 3 speed squirrel cage fan mounted on the shroud the fan sucked air in and was discharged at the bottom of the shroud.
It never ran hot or shut down and the fan was never used on any position except low,the problem was on a dusty road it would boil a cloud of dust up.
The generator was in the 1st bay drivers side in a lead foam quite box the only ventilation was the intake and discharge provided on the generator head no auxiliary fan it's still working 16 years later.
One important item is to mount the generator radiator a couple of inches higher than the generator engine that prevents air locks and shut downs,a old generator guy in VA taught me that and it works
hey while on this can some of you chime in with any tips, on a DC thermostatic type on/off, and possibly auto speed switch.
At this time just experiences with the general automotive oem vehicle and equipment stuff.
This may be of interest if Don considers a dc motor type, flat auto fan type for space and some of them considerations we can all help with. That option maybe needed but my limited experience setting on the pass side, outside having a cold one and a chat may get in conversations with the ruling class on my team, as the fan noise may be loud. this maybe a good thing ::)
Something to listen for when we turn our car off and walk away, uno that noise! (sorry only good memory, though a bit abstract ) like me :)
Floyd