I'm getting ready to do some cleaning...
I have the wheel covers with the chrome lug nut covers. The rings look good, but the lug nut caps are rusty.
How do I know what size lug nut caps? 33MM ?
Also, the round center of the wheel is always exposed. Is there a cover for this?
Any suggestions of a good source?
Try https://www.iowa80.com/browse/hub-caps/HUBCAPS/ (https://www.iowa80.com/browse/hub-caps/HUBCAPS/) if you ever get near Iowa. If not, just to get some ideas...
Those are cool, but how do you know what size or type to get?
Dave, if you have stud pilot wheels they are 1-1/2 in if hub pilot wheels they are 33MM and I don't know of center cover if it did not come with your covers
Go to any big rig supply house and they'll have numerous sizes of lug nut covers.
QuoteGo to any big rig supply house and they'll have numerous sizes of lug nut covers.
I've seen numerous sizes, my question is "what size to do I need?"
Quote from: Tikvah on October 21, 2016, 12:41:11 PM
I've seen numerous sizes, my question is "what size to do I need?"
Best I can tell those are 1-1/2 x 2 in I bought 60 from Amazon for 30 bucks (Metal) not plastic,buy the ones with the flange then they cover the space I see around yours
Most of the truck stops in this area stock an assortment of lug nut covers and hubcaps .Exit 15 on I 26 is a good one .Even camping world stocks some Lug Nut covers.Don't know about the center caps.Might be a good idea to dress the wheels up and forget the wheel covers.I have never used any of these things that were not noisy .I have tried every fix imaginable and none of them has ever worked !!
What problem are you trying to hide?? Hehe just kidding
The hub piloted wheel nuts ( http://buytruckwheels.com/media/catalog/site/Hub-Pilot.jpg (http://buytruckwheels.com/media/catalog/site/Hub-Pilot.jpg) ) have an integral washer on them where they contact the rim while the stud piloted wheels ( http://buytruckwheels.com/media/catalog/site/Stud-Pilot.jpg (http://buytruckwheels.com/media/catalog/site/Stud-Pilot.jpg) ) have a ball face (rounded) contact area. The hub piloted wheel nuts are 33MM and the stud piloted are 1-1/2"
They had a cap that slipped under the main cover and one with a hole in center for oil hubs.Some had the cover integralThe rear covers looked convex like the fronts and used aluminum pipes threaded onto rear stud remaining threads to mount.You then threaded nylon lugnuts on the outer threads of the pipes and then pushed on thin chrome lug nut covers.They may have made rear concave ones also. I always thought the rear ones were a pita to take on and off. Chromed steel wheels would be nicer, but around here the only place that chromes anything only does show chrome at insane prices.
So some MCI buses have stud pilot wheels and some have hub pilot wheels?
If I ever buy a replacement steel wheel I need to know the lug nut that held it on?
Dave, it easy to tell look at the drive axle if the part the nut is screwed on to has a square head it is a stud pilot system
QuoteDave, it easy to tell look at the drive axle if the part the nut is screwed on to has a square head it is a stud pilot system
LOL, okay luvrbus, "part the nut is screwed on to..." ???
What the heck are you talking about?
Do you do that on purpose? ;D
Quote from: Tikvah on October 22, 2016, 06:07:37 AM
LOL, okay luvrbus, "part the nut is screwed on to..." ???
What the heck are you talking about?
Do you do that on purpose? ;D
YEP surely in the 5+ years you have owned the bus you have seen the wheels removed from the rear axle the inner nut (inside dual) has a square head, the outer wheel takes a regular nut that screws on that nut, same size as the tag and front axle then you have a stud pilot system.
Got a tape measure? Just Measure the nut side to side.Or Take a peace of clay and take the nut off and press it into it. Take the clay with you to the store and check the size. Or take one nut off with you and check the size that fits? Thanks Clifford I just bought 60 1-1/2" for 29.95 at Amazon also. Had been looking for a good deal and with Prime free shipping.And I have 20 extra in case I lose some....
Dave
Quote from: Dave5Cs on October 22, 2016, 10:21:38 AM
Got a tape measure? Just Measure the nut side to side.Or Take a peace of clay and take the nut off and press it into it. Take the clay with you to the store and check the size. Or take one nut off with you and check the size that fits? Thanks Clifford I just bought 60 1-1/2" for 29.95 at Amazon also. Had been looking for a good deal and with Prime free shipping.And I have 20 extra in case I lose some....
Dave
You should have waited till you stopped by I am using the Kane covers and don't need the 60 lug nut covers now, they are still in the packaging lol maybe a door prize for the Dam Rally
Well, I guess it doesn't matter anyway for now. I can't get the covers off without removing a lug nut, and I can't turn a lug nut with my tools.
I have a 1-1/2" socket, but not the leverage I need.
Maybe I need to buy a pipe.
Dave heres a torque multiplier for you. 65 to 1 for 38.00
https://www.amazon.com/Yontree-Torque-Multiplier-Lugnuts-Remover/dp/B01984LGXS/ref=pd_lpo_469_tr_img_3/160-4389461-7278162?ie=UTF8&refRID=V655WAXX22JRA2C2GJWT&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Yontree-Torque-Multiplier-Lugnuts-Remover/dp/B01984LGXS/ref=pd_lpo_469_tr_img_3/160-4389461-7278162?ie=UTF8&refRID=V655WAXX22JRA2C2GJWT&th=1)
DaveC, I think you miss read that, it is 1:58 a 1:58 with 1 complete turn will get you a little over a 1/2 turn on the nut or bolt I am assuming the torque ratio is 1:58 also
Nope it is 58 to 1. I have one that is 65 to 1 thought it was the same one but hey its close to mine.
I use it to break the nuts loose and then use my air wrench. I put them on with air wrench and torque with a 3/8" torque wrench to 7 ft/lbs and it = 455 ft/lbs
This is the actual one I have 1:65 = 65 to 1. If you were going to turn it 65 times would be one full turn. It takes about 3 turn to bust them lose with no strain.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPS5SQS?psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPS5SQS?psc=1)
Ok,that is cheap enough I have a 20:1 J6232 Proto it is a double planetary when in the 20:1 setting
Will that tool work on the rear wheels with the deep inset dish?
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-pistol-grip-air-impact-wrench-62355.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-pistol-grip-air-impact-wrench-62355.html)
Read reviews. Buy some 1/2 inch air hose and put a fitting for it on your air system. Also if you buy their air operated bottle jack, changing or removing wheels will be much faster and easier from now on.
Quote from: chessie4905 on October 23, 2016, 04:39:06 AMhttp://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-pistol-grip-air-impact-wrench-62355.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-pistol-grip-air-impact-wrench-62355.html)
Read reviews. Buy some 1/2 inch air hose and put a fitting for it on your air system. Also if you buy their air operated bottle jack, changing or removing wheels will be much faster and easier from now on.
No experience with hub-centered wheels (although they're what I'm in the middle of putting on my bus -- all new axles, brakes, wheels, etc.). 1" seems pretty big -- can you get by with 3/4"? Seems it would be easier to store -- and use by an old guy with arthritis in his hands.
Thanks, BH
Bruce,all I use is a 3/4 I/R weighs 7 lbs and the torque is about the same,you need to watch some H/F impact guns they are air hogs but the price is right and they work good for no more than the average person uses 1
Quote from: luvrbus on October 23, 2016, 07:00:59 AMBruce,all I use is a 3/4 I/R weighs 7 lbs and the torque is about the same,you need to watch some H/F impact guns they are air hogs but the price is right and they work good for no more than the average person uses 1
I appreciate that helpful answer. I generally like buying quality tools but if the difference is between somebody that wants to use something for 8 hours a day for 10 years and for what I need but they work about the same, I'll take the cheaper one. I have a 3 quart air tank that I took off the Gillig front suspension kneeling system on my donor bus - I don't need it for anything else so I was thinking about making it the external-accessory air tank with a 1/2" air fitting. It would work for airing up tires and running air tools. It wouldn't put much strain on the bus compressor or my shop compressor (I have a 1/2" shop air fitting on my bus so I could air it up independent of the engine running), and it would be OK for what I need to run it for a minute and let the tank air up for a minute.
Thanks, Clifford.
Almost did! this morning bother you all with a post with HF air impact ;)
I picked up the earthquake 1" with long extension, and no offense I used a 3/4 snap on for many years "daily" no not monthy daily and many times hourly. I should have invested in a 1" long before when doing that fleetwork.
I agree bigtime using a small 1/2" impact tool for install and follow up with proper torque with wrench. Many of these new steel 2piece lugs can in their design have compression and be a tough nut getting off in the future. I had in the shops a separate 1/2 hose outlet just for the 3/4 and made available my 3/4 for the guys for wheel removal and believe me I had cheater pipes 12 feet away.
Some of my buds at another fleet shop swore by IR impacts and I did like them also, that shop had big air available, I kept and ran 125 at the coupler.
I am not sure of an easier way to unload the Earthquake and move it around the bus, but its real nice to kick back with an Ice Tea remembering how tough that job can be, and always had extra vocabulary. Earthquake Rocks!
good day there
Floyd
All impact guns are only as good as the air supply IMO.I am so lazy with air gizmos when it comes to airing up my tires I just set the regulator for the correct psi hang the chuck on the stem and come back and move to another tire when I think about it ;D I am not going to spend 10 minutes airing up a tire
Your spot on Clifford, friends at the shop I mentioned like the IR wrenches, at their shop they have the rotary screw IR compressor, so I'm sure you know the don't have a problem with supply. They may get a small fleet discount?. Of course with 33 bays with a pro trained wrench in each turning wrenches on the likes of whatever HD including KW, Peterbilt's and Navistar's they talk, joke and get serious with tools as piece work pays with good performance. I was looking at the spec on my 1"quaker and it basically shows 17cfm consumption, I have never had it off of #1 setting of 3. It works on mine, a standard 2cyl shop compressor a typical one that ya cannot get parts for easy and reason I reamed and put inserts in the rods, what I think everyone does with these and aluminum rods. As a wrench I found it easier to look some specs up rather than go out to work, as its Sunday! anyway on the IR 3/4 it shows on their site like avg. 8cfm use and in looking farther right all the torques and other specs they as expected go farther (pro) and show consumption at up to 32cfm. Theres no doubt these Big Dogs can use some air, I dont mind waiting if I had to ???.
I need to just go on and hook it to the bus back coupler to check a lug that's been setting there waiting on a new Alcoa, studs, nuts (dreaming) I guess its shop time>
coffee's good this morning
Floyd
Dave yes they will do your duals and rear wheels too.
Dave5Cs
Hello: First let me say I could be wrong - But, my wife (machinist) told me there are roughly 25 mm per inch so 1-1/2" would be 38 mm. Correct me if I'm wrong please. I bought mine (stainless) on line for my Prevost and I bought 38 mm. Good Luck Gerry H
QuoteHello: First let me say I could be wrong - But, my wife (machinist) told me there are roughly 25 mm per inch so 1-1/2" would be 38 mm. Correct me if I'm wrong please. I bought mine (stainless) on line for my Prevost and I bought 38 mm. Good Luck Gerry H
I think you're right. I put a 1-1/2" socket on my lugs (couldn't turn them) and it fit. So, 38mm seems right.
I'll try to polish the rings in place and put new nut covers on.
I doubt I'll buy that fancy tool. I just can't imagine ever needing to turn a lug nut except to clean my chrome.
Thanks guys,
Dave