Anyone know where to get MCI radiator mounts. The metal portion one of hours rusted through, radiator is now loosely situated in its compartment...
In the manual it kind of looks like it is part number 6R-1-3 but I can't quite tell. I may just have to fashion a custom mount with a rubber isolator but I thought it may be easier to track down the right part.
Bjorn, are you needing the upper metal bracket?
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I don't believe so. From what it looks like the upper metal bracket just holds the radiator in place but it is not actually attached, is that right?
The bracket on the bottom that bolts in and has a rubber isolator is the part that I need. It looks like the main piece responsible for holding the entire radiator up. I wish I had taken a picture! Didn't get a chance to before I left last weekend but I will this weekend if no one knows what I am talking about.
I know exactly what you're talking about but I'm not sure you'll find that as a separate piece. Let me take a closer look at mine
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Bjorn, I got mine from MCI not sure of the part number but I don't think they were to bad in price, they have 4 - 1/4" bolts that hold the mount to the frame work then about a 3" x 3/8" bolt goes up through and threads into the radiator. If you need I can look back and see if I can find my invoice from MCI to confirm the part #. Jason
Quote from: jmblake on August 19, 2016, 05:50:25 PM
Bjorn, I got mine from MCI not sure of the part number but I don't think they were to bad in price, they have 4 - 1/4" bolts that hold the mount to the frame work then about a 3" x 3/8" bolt goes up through and threads into the radiator. If you need I can look back and see if I can find my invoice from MCI to confirm the part #. Jason
If you could find the invoice with a part number and potentially the price I would be indebted to you! Really hoping to get the radiator fixed down.
Scott, thanks a ton. Any information helps. It was a shock to find the mount collapsed from so much rust damage.
I am considering replacing the radiator as a whole but I feel like it is in decent enough shape to keep. I will post a picture tomorrow or Sunday to see what you guys think.
Couldn't find my receipt but the 6R-1-3 is what my book shows, I checked MCI online parts and it shows that number being replaced with 6K-1-3 showing out of stock and no price >:(. Hope that helps, also I have a good used radiator that I pulled out of mine for sale if interested let me know. Jason
Darn, that is too bad. I can probably fashion something that will work just as well but I will call MCI next week and see what they say.
What is the price on the radiator you pulled? Any pictures by chance?
If you can get Jason's radiator, jump on it. It will be way way cheaper than buying a new one or getting yours recored
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Here is the mount in question. I lifted the radiator for the first image so you can see it is not even connected! It is not longer doing anything to help the radiator, definitely need to fix this up before taking it out again. I will have to try calling MCI for an idea of what the part would cost and if they have it, otherwise I will make a strap or straps myself!
Front of Radiator:
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi277.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk53%2Fthebear_09%2FIMG_1655.jpg&hash=b6aae89078a05e87a7c995214381ba7b06e6708e) (http://s277.photobucket.com/user/thebear_09/media/IMG_1655.jpg.html)
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Back of radiator:
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi277.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk53%2Fthebear_09%2FIMG_1653.jpg&hash=79fd416aeeb24f0f7751d327e0ec046e71052f4e) (http://s277.photobucket.com/user/thebear_09/media/IMG_1653.jpg.html)
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Any thoughts about the shape of this radiator. I think it is decent. Obviously the back side is starting to deteriorate but should still have plenty of good life in it. Let me know the details on your radiator Jason, if it works out I may be interested in getting it. May be good just to have on hand as a back up.
Bjorn, trust me on this please. Those rads are done. Seriously. No question whatsoever. It's not a matter of "if" but rather "when" you'll be stranded due to overheating or springing a leak. Mine looked better than that on my 9 and they both leaked the same weekend and stranded me. In addition, by the time the exterior looks like that, the interior tubes are most definitely restricted. You need rads ASAP buddy. If you run your fingernail down the side, those fins will crumble like dried mud. Yeah, no good.
You have some serious corrosion issues on that coach. How do your engine cradles look? Is the front air bag area that rusted too? Or is the rust just mainly restricted to the cooling area?
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Bjorn, If I got to crate it up $700.00 +shipping or if you can arrange some one to pick it up $600.00 It was new in 2010 and has approximately 8000 miles and the bus wasn't run in the winter. I reused the mounts so you would still need them. Jason
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I would be curious how the other rad looks too. My MC8 might be sold for the engine and trans, not sure if they are going to swap rads too, but mine were replaced when I got the bus and they probably have 30k on them, so if you need a second one it might be available.
I'll take some more pictures of the other radiator today, if I remember correctly it is in much better shape and actually looks like Jason's. Thanks for the heads up Scott. Any idea what it would cost to ship the radiator Jason? Where are you located? I have a feeling it is a bit of a drive from Southern California.
I may be interested in a second one... we'll have to wait and see what the budget all looks like.
Scott- the corrosion is mostly restricted to the cooling area and is not very wide spread. The engine was supposedly rebuilt within the last 100,000 miles... at least it has a newer coat of paint. I will take some more pictures today of the overall area. There is some rehab work that needs to be done back there but even the rust seems isolated to specific spots.
Jason- Do you also have the Jakes still? Do you know if the ones you have would work on a 6V92? Also, if you I were to pay UPS or FedEx to pack and ship would you be fine with $600? I am not sure if you know of a cheaper option but I have used both carriers to ship windows, heater core, condenser fans, and heater blower assembly. They guarantee it if they pack it and I don't think the radiator would cost much being it is relatively small.
I'am in western PA, I don't know how much shipping would be but it is fairly heavy. If you pay them to pack it I would do $600, do you just take it to a local fedex or ups drop off? I have them fairly close but if I would have to take it to a distribution center then I would need a little more $ since the nearest one would be a least a hour drive.
As far as the jakes I still have them but I'm not sure if they would fit, probably have to ask Cliff that one ;D
Jason
Jason, I am going to PM you for some more information.
I wasn't able to grab any extra pictures today but will take some Thursday to get some more opinions.
My radiators are just starting to deteriorate along the bottom on the back and I am not going to take any chances. Right now I am not driving the bus anywhere far for fear of overheating. Radiators are a whole lot less than an engine, and a Detroit will overheat in a hurry. The missing fins on your radiator are there for several reasons. They provide mechanical support to the tubes, and they distribute heat to be dissipated. I know it sounds strange but all those fins provide support to the tubes, ensuring that the tubes do not split. Now that the fins are gone, the tubes have no support, on top of the fact that most likely the tubes are also corroded and are more susceptible to splitting. The missing fins are now going to create a hot spot in the tube where it is no longer dissipating heat, which in turn puts more pressure on the tubes and we are back to only a matter of time till the tube splits. So as the others have suggested, I would have those radiators fixed if you plan on driving it.
Jeff LoGiudice
1986 TMC 102A3
Silver 6V92TA
Allison 740
Jason if the Jake Brake housing have 71/92 stamped on it they will work for him,he will need the oil bolts from your engine
They do have 71/92 stamped on them, what all pieces would he need? and what would a fair price be?
He will need 92 valve bridges,the 71's bridges won't work all the rest of the parts are the same
How much and where would I be able to get the valve bridges? I was thinking of getting this set after verifying that it would work out on my engine (I am assuming the 8V92 and the 6V92 are the same, just two more sets of jakes): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Detroit-Diesel-8v92-Series-Jake-Brake-ONLY-complete-system-24-volts-/121906876416?hash=item1c62375000:g:XtYAAOSwKtVW0N9d&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Detroit-Diesel-8v92-Series-Jake-Brake-ONLY-complete-system-24-volts-/121906876416?hash=item1c62375000:g:XtYAAOSwKtVW0N9d&vxp=mtr)
I don't know if the above link is a great price or not so just as Jason asked, what would be a mutually fair price?
I hear you Jeff, I am definitely going to replace it. As far as I can see the radiator on the other side has all fins intact and looks to be in good condition. I will picture it this week.
Any set you buy off Ebay 95% of the time you need to rebuild before installing but that is not a bad price
Hi Cliff,
Do you know where I would be able to get the 92 bridges from and how much do you think those would run?
Quote from: jav9956 on August 22, 2016, 07:25:43 AM
Hi Cliff,
Do you know where I would be able to get the 92 bridges from and how much do you think those would run?
If you buy Jason's I'll swap you the 92 bridges for the 71 bridges and pay the shipping
Quote from: luvrbus on August 22, 2016, 07:31:48 AM
If you buy Jason's I'll swap you the 92 bridges for the 71 bridges and pay the shipping
What a guy !! ;D
Quote from: eagle19952 on August 22, 2016, 07:37:45 AM
What a guy !! ;D
;D no just the 71 bridges are becoming hard to find,Delaney had 2 buckets full 71 bridges and sold them for scrap ??? ???
Hey Cliff inquiring minds want to know...if the 71/92 bridges work on either engine, then what is the advantage to having the 71 only bridges?
Quote from: thomasinnv on August 22, 2016, 07:50:01 AM
Hey Cliff inquiring minds want to know...if the 71/92 bridges work on either engine, then what is the advantage to having the 71 only bridges?
only the slaves and drones will work on either engine..the bridges are specific..were that not the case..the heads would be interchangeable..
Quote from: luvrbus on August 22, 2016, 07:31:48 AM
If you buy Jason's I'll swap you the 92 bridges for the 71 bridges and pay the shipping
I'll pay to ship you out here and throw in a beer if I can get you to help me install them :P. Where is your shop located by the way?
I'd be fine with swapping. Helps me and helps you, I would have no use for them but to sell them on e-bay for millions of dollars. Jason and I just have to work out a price and I have to work out shipping from PA to CA for a radiator and Jakes.
Quote from: eagle19952 on August 22, 2016, 07:58:24 AM
only the slaves and drones will work on either engine..the bridges are specific..were that not the case..the heads would be interchangeable..
Ah ok. Got it now, thanks for straightening me out.
What it is Derrick the 71's have a 4.25 bore the 92's are 4.84 bore so the valves have a different spacing on the 92 series 1/4 of a inch wider