I know this has been discussed before, but it now is relevant to me. My front hubs keep dumping oil. The inner oil deal was replaced but they still dump the oil out on the inside of the tire and rim and brakes. How involved is it to jus convert them to greased hubs?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scott, I had mine converted by Choo Choo garage last time I had the brakes and seals done. Seemed simple then as everything was already apart. But then again, I wasn't the one having to do it. Craig
There is really no reason to change if the shop installed the wear sleeve,seal the proper way and checked the run out end play on your wheels they don't leak ? are they over filled people have a bad habit thinking one should fill till it runs out of the fill plug.I never have a problem with the wheel oil seals leaking (knock on wood)
If the new oil seals are not holding, it might be because parts of the hub are worn or corroded, or the spindle. Going to grease seals might slow the leak down, but grease gets mobile when it gets hot. My guess is that the surface that the seal mates to is scored, and wears the seal out quickly. Did that garage that messed up the hub bolts on one side do the seals too? There are thin stainless sleeves that can be put on in some cases.
Being an old truck driver, and virtually all front axle bearings on trucks are oil, I had my bus changed to oil bearings. That was 23 years ago and not one leak yet. Good Luck, TomC
I agree with Clifford, Walter and Tom!
There is no reason to change to grease if the seals are installed properly they won't leak!
And also as said there are "wear sleeves" to correct worn/damaged spindles.
Some mechanics call them "SPEEDY SLEEVES" (DON'T ASK ME WHY, just know that I've heard more than one grease monkey call them that!)
;D BK ;D
Some times the speedy sleeves are called two piece seals. That's the only way I go when I replace seals on OTR trucks. Using a proper seal installer is a must as well on those big seals. Some stores loan or even give seal installer away, just ask
Eric
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Yes this is the same shop. They want the bus to come back in on Monday. I can't afford to keep having these mistakes happen. They waste my time even on the shop is covering them financially. I wonder if I can just fill them with oil and try to make it to another shop maybe choo-choo or something
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's your call, but it's a long way to choo-choo's, and depending on how quick it is losing oil, you are getting brakes wet and possibly suffering bearing or spindle damage. Maybe give them one more chance, unless there is someone else close by. If you run it knowing there is a problem, it will gnaw on your conscience all the way to the breakdown site.
I know this is kind of a Ford/Chev thing but I never had any luck with Stemco seals. If they're not CR I won't use them. The Stemcos always leak for me.
Sounds like the shop had a new guy work on your coach - Maybe he over-stated his abilities. Maybe they didn't know they needed to babysit him during the whole job.
At least they are trying to stand behind their work . . .
Maybe they are called speedi-sleeves because that is what they were called when SKF developed them -
http://www.skf.com/us/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html (http://www.skf.com/us/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html)
BTW, if the seal won't hold oil, then it will allow the oil in the qrease to leave also - leaving the soap base behind. Grease looses almost all of its lubricating properties when the oil is gone. . .
His MCI will have some are calling spedi seal,wear sleeve etc , but MCI calls it a spacer the seal rides on I just replaced mine you take a ball peen hammer and tap round and round and you can pull it off with your fingers,clean the spindle up spread the sealant on the spindle and drive the new spacer on
If there were a Michigander that I could get to come up here and guide me id do this in my driveway
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Get Scott Crosby to come up and fix it !
Cody needs Scott's assistance up in the UP with his Iggle (rear end issuses) so you guys could split the transportation costs and just pay the labor your job and Cody could pay his labor! Win win for both!
;D BK ;D
I don't why people don't spend the 20 bucks on a C/R centering tool and install the seals I never have problems with leaking seals using the right tools
OK I ordered two new wheel seals from Mohawk. They come in on Monday. Is there anything else that I should need? I think I'm going to try to give the shop one more chance to fix this.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tell your shop to use a centering tool and they don't get damaged installing the hubs
I use Lucas hub oil. It is thick and tacky. It won't leak as readily as regular oil. Although I have seen it leak out the back seal on my bus because I had screwed up when installing. Easy to do... You have to be very careful to slide the hub onto the spindle nice and straight so as not to damage the seal. Tricky because the hub is heavy. Some rooky apprentice might have f..ked your's up...
JC
Quote from: lostagain on August 18, 2016, 07:41:20 AM
I use Lucas hub oil. It is thick and tacky. It won't leak as readily as regular oil. Although I have seen it leak out the back seal on my bus because I had screwed up when installing. Easy to do... You have to be very careful to slide the hub onto the spindle nice and straight so as not to damage the seal. Tricky because the hub is heavy. Some rooky apprentice might have f..ked your's up...
JC
We older guys use the centering tool for those heavy suckers ;D
Hopefully I don't have to do oil seals again until I am as old as you Clifford :P By then I'll get a centering tool.
JC
Both Meritor (old Rockwell) and Spicer (Eaton) make cartridge bearings for the front axle. The complete seals & bearings are all together as one. All you have to do is to slide it on and put the hub over the cartridge. Then tighten the nut to the specified torque and you're done. No retightening ever. Good Luck, TomC
Cliff where can I buy the tool? I would be happy to loan it to them
Btw, I do use Lucas hub oil in them :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: bobofthenorth on August 16, 2016, 05:25:18 PM
I know this is kind of a Ford/Chev thing but I never had any luck with Stemco seals. If they're not CR I won't use them. The Stemcos always leak for me.
+2 on CR but ONLY
Scotseal+ I find the original CR and the CR Scotseal (No Plus) are extremely touchy on installation. Make sure you have the shop check for any chisel marks on the spindle from some previous owner/mechanic that used a chisel to remove the wear sleeve of a Stemco seal set. As mentioned the method to remove a Stemco set wear sleeve is to use the ball end of a ball peen hammer PROVIDING THE PREVIOUS SEAL SET WAS THE TWO PIECE STEMCO STYLE. There have been customers come in after trying things on there own
thinking there was a wear sleeve installed. :o
I am biased because I have been installing CR+ seals for 15 years and only two failures. And one of them of which I can explain. With Stemco it was more a matter of counting the failures per year.
BTW, grease packed wheel bearings are making a comeback in the semi trailer market.