Doing some remodel on the bathroom and building a laundry room in the MCI ? what would you use for framing.This is one of 3 day jobs that is turning into 3 weeks lol. It took me a week to demo.
This is the 1st bus I ever saw framed with solid 2x2 oak and the screws are almost impossible to remove like the oak has grew around the screws so which is the easiest 2x2 pine or metal studs I want to keep the walls thin as possible thanks
How about 3/4" plywood? No studs, simple, and only 3/4" thick.
JC
I used 3/4" Birch covered furniture grade plywood for walls. Space is at a premium in a motorhome, you don't want to be framing, or even using 2x2's. I'm 300lbs and have bumped into the walls, and they are very strong. Just make sure to screw and glue the ends-of which are the only glued ends I did in the bus. All other joints are put together with 1" L brackets and screwed (pilot hole then screwed-will crack oak without pilot holes). All cabinets are still tight after 16 years of use. Good Luck, TomC
I need framing to attach the cabinet doors front that goes from the floor to the ceiling and has drawers plus a closet along with the washer/dryer,I have plywood on the bus walls now
LOL. Sorry Clifford. But we came up with the 2X2 oak idea after a friend wrecked their bus. Everything ended up sitting on the dash. The entire interior went to the front. We decided that we did NOT want that to happen. Our solution was 2X2 oak. Seemed pretty strong ;D
Quote from: John316 on August 15, 2016, 07:57:06 AM
LOL. Sorry Clifford. But we came up with the 2X2 oak idea after a friend wrecked their bus. Everything ended up sitting on the dash. The entire interior went to the front. We decided that we did NOT want that to happen. Our solution was 2X2 oak. Seemed pretty strong ;D
John, it is nice wood 2x2 and 2x4's in solid oak that had to cost big time, it is rock solid I can tell you for sure I have to use a sawsall with a metal blade.( when she lets me cut a oak board)
If it wasn't for her with the claw foot tub with a shower and vanity , life would be so much easier ;D ;D ;D
Better hope "Her" doesn't see that post! ;D ;D
Jack
Quote from: oltrunt on August 15, 2016, 09:28:08 AM
Better hope "Her" doesn't see that post! ;D ;D
Jack
That makes no difference Jack lol I feel like I owe the wife anyways after all these years
Cliff,
My solution is 1-1/2" steel track and studs covered w/ 3/8" plywood on both sides. Light and strong, and have a chase for blue smurf tube and shallow outlet boxes. On my 4905, I kerfed the top track to follow the ceiling curve.
Steve
I like the 3/4 ply and you can put wood veneer on it ( use spray glue to install ) or plam ( counter top stuff ) but if you use the plam it may start to look like a big dollar prevoist ...... shiny
dave
3/4" furniture grade plywood. But metal studs could be used and top cut and bent to fit easily. A lot lighter weight too. If you put ply over stud use pl 2000 or simalar on stud surface to connect ply so as no screw sqweeks. ;D
Dave
I use 1" square tubing, welded to the frame or ceiling, to make my walls to screw the wood to. They don't move.
Cliff, I ran 2" U track top and bottom, easy to cut to form curve in roof, then ran 2x2 studs between the channels. 3/8 plywood over both sides, can hang anything I want off these walls. Craig
Clifford is that the wall that is going to have the 32 plug outlets in it? ;D ::)
Dave5Cs
Quote from: Dave5Cs on August 16, 2016, 06:28:58 AM
Clifford is that the wall that is going to have the 32 plug outlets in it? ;D ::)
Dave5Cs
No those plugs will be in the sewing area ;D ;D
They also make a 1" metal track also used as studs. A drywall supplier usually has it. I have used 3/4" plywood also but only on the overhead cabinates. No framing needed just cut openings out of the plywood panel and go. Nice solid openings, no framing. It has lasted the test of time, 37 years & counting...