Hey all,
I am getting my MC7 back on the road again. Interior work is coming along nicely (will post pics sometime). I am about to have the mechanical side worked on. Here is a brief rundown of where I am at.
Bus was moved from Tucson AZ to Atlanta GA about a year and a half ago.
Hasnt moved since
Charged up the bus batteries a couple days
It fired right up with the method that you guys taught me (kill gas and let it crank a few seconds, wait a minute then fire it up)
Aired up fine and I believe I felt the park brake release
The air pressure gauge didn't move until i started tapping on it - then it moved freely
Here are the issues I know of and have discovered / remember so far
1. alternator/generator seized up and has been removed
2. clutch is failed shut
3. transmission will not go into reverse and last time in reverse I had to open the lid of the trans and pry it out of reverse
4. reverse solenoid will not engage
5. fast idle will not engage
6. dont think the headlights, reverse or taillights work anymore (have to check on the taillights)
I have a mechanic that came out and seemed very confident in his ability to address the clutch, alternator and transmission issues.
As for the electrical issues here is what I remember
While work on the transmission I remember some serious sparks under there as i moved my wrench from somewhere on the transmission to the chassis. Pretty sure I shorted something out. It was around the time that these electrical issues began.
Any advise as I try to get this bad boy running out the the southwest this fall/winter?
I am going to run through the forum and check on how everyone is doing (TomC, Van, Cliff, BK and all)
Dave Snow
You will need an ohm meter, 24v test light and The Book to diagnose electrical. If you have power to the fast idle skinner valve check the coil for resistance. Same with reverse solenoid. If no power then I would start at the front control panel...then switches, and work my way back. They are simple circuits if you have the book....ps mci wires have numbers on them that makes tracing wires a breeze. Good luck!
Thanks porchpeople
I have two MCI books for the MC7 a blue and a yellow if I remember right.
I'll check which has the electrical diagrams and tackle that job after getting a 24v light. Or just use the multimeter.
Anyone have any golden nuggets I should tell my mechanic before heading into the clutch and transmission work?
Given you need to work on the back of the engine - alternator, clutch, gearbox - just pull the engine out and work on it out in the open. I don't think it's possible to get at the clutch otherwise, anyway. You can pull it with a pallet jack and a frame, or a forklift truck, or build a dolly. Doing it on flat concrete is almost a must.
Yeah, downfall of the ol MCs is you have to pull the engine to check the blinker fluid! Pull the mounts and amphenols add push the bus forward! Much easier than moving the drivetrain. Also a good time to check/ rewire the motor cradle connections on the frame....these link to fast idle/ reverse solenoid/ emergency stop solenoid etc and get fairly petrified do to proximity to engine and the road.
Quote from: Dlsnow on July 26, 2016, 11:22:03 AM
Thanks porchpeople
I have two MCI books for the MC7 a blue and a yellow if I remember right.
I'll check which has the electrical diagrams and tackle that job after getting a 24v light. Or just use the multimeter.
Anyone have any golden nuggets I should tell my mechanic before heading into the clutch and transmission work?
[/quote
Yes, I have one nugget to check. When the trans is removed, take note on the flex line going to the
throw out bearing. Also note where to find the zerk fitting. This is often over looked which shortens
the life of the bearing. How do I know this? I am working on my third throw out bearing. (MC-7)
Also it might be easier to pull the engine and trans as a package. My mechanic just blocked up the motor
and lowered the bus enough to clear the rails, then moved the bus forward to clear the motor.
Good luck, Merle.
I second the throw out bearing collar note. Make sure your mech uses the right one and you can easily access the zerk....otherwise it can be extremely difficult to grease it and become a two person job...one to lube and the other to feather the clutch.