On our way down south we developed a leak on the air drier, It got a hole rusted in the can underneath the bracket that holds it to the frame. A new AD-2 drier from my local truck garage is $800.00 :'( Since mine isn't any good for a core I have that charge in there also, I can get a AD-9 for $280.00 but will have to do some re-plumbing, so my question is what would be the best way to change from the solid piping that goes there now to new plastic and the best way to connect new to the old ???
Thanks Jason
You don't want plastic! You have to use DOT air line and fittings.
--Geoff
Yes DOT air line is what I meant, What would be the best way to connect it to the I think its copper tubing?
Jason
Here's one for a better price if you don't want to change the air lines -
http://sixrobblees.com/products/details.aspx?i=2347 (http://sixrobblees.com/products/details.aspx?i=2347)
- Steve
If it is copper it is the same spec O.D. as plastic so a DOT union will connect the two. You may have to cut the copper tube back some and use a short length of synflex to make your connection work but a DOT union is perfectly suitable and a proper fitting in that application. You just don't use the insert on the copper line like you need to for the "plastic" line.
Personally I would choose the AD9 over the AD2 but to each their own.
Thanks for the replies guys, I haven't had time to get under there and really look and see how much room I have to work with in the tubing put I will probably go with the AD9 if I got room for the fittings to make it work.
Thanks Jason
May be lucky and find the old connected to a junction/union on the wall and be able to just go from there back down with the new standard dot plastic in 3/4most likely. sorry Jim I haven't updated or could help some more.
Jason, the AD 9 is a bear to get into that space because of the diameter of the AD 9 just plan on all day to make the change over and park in front of a truck supply to do the change over that saves a lot of trips ;D
Jason I meant, I screwed up postin back there .
I was thinking you must have got back or close to home some how or just checking your regular parts contacts.
So are you some where else possibly that we need to figure something out there. :)
Floyd
Jason when mine keep purging and would not close or build air. I pulled both lines and connected them( bi-passed it with 1/2" DOT line). Haven't replaced it yet and it has been fine. You also pull the line to the Governor and plug it. I always drain the tanks when I shutdown for the night. No problems or changes other than I don't have air problems there anymore. ;D
Dave5Cs
Thanks guys, Yes we are home. I will check over the weekend to make sure there is room for the AD9 I know there isn't much, I will also check to see were the lines connect hopefully near a junction block that would make things a lot easier. Luckily I'm only 3 mile from the truck supply store ;)
Thanks Jason
Its glad to hear you have it there, I had found using the ramps on front made for a decent work area fwiw. Some of the newer compressors and engines have a bit different setup so I thought this video clip may be worth a look for some of us with update thoughts, repower thoughts or just new stuff. The Fella here looks to be starting with the ad9 and discussing newer.
good day there
Floyd
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAZJuaX1xNM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAZJuaX1xNM)
Jason, I plan on moving my drier on the DL to engine compartment for easier service, on a MCI that was a dumb place to put a drier
Cliff, I agree, they could have found a better place especially when your out on the road and have problems, luckily I have the air leveling that I got enough air to get the front end up so I could get in there and see what was wrong. Does it have to be so far from the compressor? I might have room for it in the engine compartment now with the 50 series.
Jason
On the D3 I used to look after for the hockey team, the dryer had been moved to the engine compartment. Nice and easy to service, short supply line from compressor. Never a problem.
JC
Jason, some say 8 ft but I don't buy it my Eagle had a AD 2 mounted in the engine compartment it was there since 1974 and never was a problem and was easy to service.Since you are changing to a AD 9 I would move that sucker the AD has all those bolts to remove to service it
good luck
Pay some respect to the Bendix installation minimum pipe lengths between the compressor and the drier.
It's about heat dissipation out of the compressed air.
Heat shortens desiccant life, sorta defeats the purpose...?
And, all downhill run, no loops, or you'll be on here crying about a freeze up in winter...
happy coaching!
buswarrior
If you worried about the length buy a Mertior/Wabco like the Prevost uses all they want is 12 inches from any excess heat,and they are just as good as a Bendix dryer IMO,also the Haldex is another good dryer.You are not married to Bendix both the above just want a slope from the compressor to dryer and mounted 12 inches from a heat source like the exhaust
Dryers in transport trucks aren't even 8' from the compressor, only a couple feet, or less, just down hill. They work good.
JC
Quote from: lostagain on July 21, 2016, 09:10:13 AM
Dryers in transport trucks aren't even 8' from the compressor, only a couple feet, or less, just down hill. They work good.
JC
Mine is going to 5 ft at the most from the compressor but I am not going to worry about it
If at all possible I will try and keep it were it is. I stopped at the supply place and measured a AD9 and they are 9" round so hopefully I can make it fit.
Jason
Sounds like you have the new 50 choice in the engine bay Jason, I wasn't sure what you were putting in there so thought that 4 line dryer vid may be of interest. But pretty sure that your detroit is running 3 line with a tu-flow probably.
I will admit with head down in my early wrenching, of the same fleet I did not know the best practice was changing these dryers cartridges annually. So with that said and that I started occupying a chairs with other techs, for brake classes n burgers in the early 90's put on by suppliers in the area garages.
I do remember some time ago copper/hard pipes were used and mandated a length/with reasoning coming off the compressors. Now days were seeing some special hoses attached to them so I think keeping that first foot or whatever length it is, in factory similar product is a good idea also.
I cannot recall the dryer part number as they have several available now, but I do like the spin on dryer cartridges, guys these are worth taken a look at if updating.
The times changing these older ones I really found removing the whole thing was best method as a cleaning of the crap in the base was needed and easier around the parts washer, and I have honestly change a lot of them. ( because I was the only one called out in 2' snow ) and then ask why!
The ad9 and ad4 are same size basically and mine is running the 4 and plenty room. I will say Jason the round part is probably 9 but the aluminum base is a bit more with needed mount so could use a bit more room. will try a measure in a bit
Good day there
Floyd
Well I just got under the bus to look and see if I have enough room for the AD9 drier and there is lots of room to mount it the problem will be in the lines as they are short and go straight up into the floor area that you can't see, so if they don't line up witch is most likely with my luck I'll have to some how connect onto them with some sort of fittings.
Jason
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HALDEX-MIDLAND-N50023B-24-VOLT-AIR-DRYER-TRUCK-NEW-MILITARY-SURPLUS-TORNADO-/122050644825?hash=item1c6ac90b59:g:z3YAAOSwubRXK2we&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/HALDEX-MIDLAND-N50023B-24-VOLT-AIR-DRYER-TRUCK-NEW-MILITARY-SURPLUS-TORNADO-/122050644825?hash=item1c6ac90b59:g:z3YAAOSwubRXK2we&vxp=mtr)
Is similar to the one I have. Mine requires no maintenance, it works without desiccant. - Very nice. I get no water in my tanks. Every time I drain them, nothing but dry air comes out. ;D
My 'wet' tank has a Bendix DV2 Automatic Drain Valve on it, so the pair of them are doing a great job. ;D
Good luck with your replacement.
Jason when i have lenghten or move copper lines I use bendable copper and make my own flares.
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