I am guessing that my ramps are 6-7 years old. They do show the effects of weathering, although here that is mostly UV exposure and not much rain. I was using them recently when changing the transmission oil on my Jeep and accidentally tilted the drain pan when moving it causing a bunch of oil to spill on one of the ramps. Today, I was looking at the ramp and noticed that all the oil had been absorbed and that ramp looked much better than the other. So, I had the thought that before recycling all of this oil, I could use some to give the ramps a good dosing. I realize that there are specialized products to use to help maintain the wood but wondered if this stuff would work. I have engine oil, transmission oil, and gear oil waiting to be recycled.
dunno...but i have run gallons of drainings thru chain saws in lieu of bar oil :)
Done that on wood trailer decks over the years. Works fine and repels water and keeps bugs away.
It will surely increase the life of the wood, but use lighter oil so that it can penetrate and not remain so much on the surface. If you were to use gear oil it would hang around longer and make the wood slippery. If the ramp is steep, the oiling might not be a good idea.
So maybe the transmission oil would be the best. Could even thin it a little with diesel.
Treating wood with used oil is better use for it than adding it to the fuel tank, ...
JC
There might be limits as to how good a preservative oil is with wood. This thread reminds me of some 6X6" landscape timbers I bought in New York in the 1970's that were dipped in a tank of used motor oil. They looked dark and uniform, but it was not as effective as pressure treated ones. They were used to build a retaining wall, and were invaded by termites within 10 years. The oil only penetrated under an inch into the wood.
The ramps are made of doug fir. Each one is made of 4 ft 4x8's that are bolted together. I suppose one could make them of pressure treated lumber, but they would be a good deal heavier.
Just keep them out of contact with the soil if you can, that will increase their lifespan.
Quote from: DoubleEagle on May 28, 2016, 07:54:07 AM
Just keep them out of contact with the soil if you can, that will increase their lifespan.
Hey, if I don't let them touch the ground, how can I use them as ramps?
Respectfully, using oiled wood ramps that old made from Fir may be counter productive? Kinda like repacking over and over that old parachute? Failure not an option?
Would it be possible to consider fabricating your own designed HD STEEL ramps? Might be a fun doable project. Also HD steel ramps are now available? Respectfully always.
Interesting question. Since I believe many here have made their own wooden ramps, I am curious to see if it is commonly felt that they have a projected lifespan, like tires, even if they appear to be fine. How often do you rebuild your ramps??
Quote from: Lin on May 28, 2016, 08:36:57 AM
Hey, if I don't let them touch the ground, how can I use them as ramps?
Ground - meaning topsoil or grass. On top of crushed stone or concrete that is drained is what I am referring to. The idea of using something stronger is worth considering, after all, a bus is around 15 tons. Softwood timbers are not the same capacity as hardwood timbers or steel.
Sorry Walter, just kidding around. We are in a desert, so the ground in our yard is very dry, very hard-packed sand/clay mix. I am curious to see what others say they use. I had thought the fir was common.
I did not realize you were so far out west, fir timber must be very common. The pressure treated wood out east is mostly southern pine, which I do not trust for any serious spanning because of the many knots in the wood. If you throw a timber off the truck and it does not snap when it hits the ground (of any kind) then it might be strong enough. Maybe you could put steel strapping or grids on the wood to reinforce what you have.
I think when mine rot, I'll happily build another set. Small fry for me compared to the cost of the actual work I'll likely be doing on the bus when using them :)
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Gotta make me a set!! What size works best and how long should they be ?? Buy the way ,creosote is probably the best thing to use as a preservative.That is if it ain't been out- lawed by some government agency!!
As mentioned, mine are 4ft long and each is made of 2 pieces of 4x8 bolted together. Therefore the dimensions are about 7.5 inches high and 7 inches wide. I think that this is about the minimum. I thought of maybe covering them with 1 inch plywood, which would serve to protect them and also increase the lift a bit. Of course, that would increase the weight also.
I have a set of ramps that I believe I bought from Harbor tool that are made out of some kind of plastic or composite stuff and had an unbelievable load rating .I have used them many times on the American Dream,but kind of think I might be stretching it with the Prevost .The labels have long since been worn off ,so I don't know the exact rating .My next trip to Harbor,I am going to check to see if they are still available and what the rating's are.
Usually the ratings they give for that type of ramp is per set and not each. It sounds kind of scary to me.
Use oak or hemlock. Just remember to make them long enough so the ramp angle isn't too severe. You could make the ramp part removable as long it is secure when attached. Good ramps are heavy btw.
We made our ramps out of Douglas Fir, 5 foot long. They are 2 x 8 on edge and 6 pieces, throughbolted, and have served us well.
They have 18 inches level top, so the ramp is not too steep for most coaches and they work just fine on most other vehicles.
They give us around 7 inches of lift and are 9 inches wide. This size is economical to build.
Another solution might be needed to use with longer coaches or more axles.
For what it's worth.
Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Ketchikan, Alaska
I was able to get some RR ties about the same time I got the bus. 7 yrs or so ago. Used 1 of them for ramps. Cut in half on angle
gave me 2 ramps nearly 5 ft long. 40 " of landing on each ramp. 9 " wide 7" high. Hope that storing them above ground
doesn't turn out to be detrimental. ::)