Our spray foam process was done over multiple visits to the foamer because we wanted to lay a floor and then have him spray foam the floor too. Anyway, it's finally done and we are starting to lay the final floor tonight. Our foamer was slightly enthusiastic and thought it would be a nice gesture to go ahead and foam the rear engine firewall too....only he sealed my hatch in. Doh. I'll be digging it out with a vibrating multi tool. I feel like I'm inside a cooler...
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Very nice. All you should need is a 5000 BTU window A/C unit to keep that baby cool. :-)
Then get a goat for the winter to keep it warm.
Awesome.
Gary, I like the 5000 BTU window unit idea...the goat? Not so much. We don't need more stubborn here :)
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Dang Scott, thats real nice. Just need a window and your good to go.
And as the added bonus, it is noise reduced too.
Scott, et al. Check this very detailed build. He's got some really good ideas. https://youtu.be/LJNueoPIyGg
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Looking good Scott! Now you can start moving on to the finishing where you can see things come together. Keep the pictures coming.
Jason
Thanks :) shanks, windows are coming to a bus near you lol! Haha. I was thinking of actually just getting rid of all the windows and covering half the windshield too. Better climate control ;) lol!
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Brett that is extremely detailed. Lots and lots of watching the guy just reload his screwdriver make funny jokes :-) actually kind of entertaining. His preVost looks very nice though
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Windows are so yesterday. Why not just install 52" TV screens where the windows would be and tie them into the Omniview system like I have on my Eagle and you will be able to see out just as well as with a window because of the wide angle lens on all cameras without losing the insulation value of your very well insulated walls. The advantages of Big Screen TVs over old fashioned windows are numerous. There are fewer windows to get broken by rocks or other flying debris and your bus will be much more secure. Nobody can see in your bus so you won't have to put on makeup every morning or put anything on for that matter. You can reposition your screens or increase or decrease the size of your TVs when you want to re-decorate much easier and quicker than moving windows and much less messy.
You can install a TV on your rear bedroom wall so you can see who is behind your bus which you can't do with many buses that have large engine cooling systems. You can also install them on interior walls to make it feel like you have windows on all sides of all rooms, including installing screens in the bathroom/shower so it will seem like you are showering on the top of Mount Everest if you wish while watching the Sherpa's lead their clients to the summit. If you want to fall asleep in a beautiful mountain scene overlooking Yosemite Falls and wake up on Newport Beach, you can do so without even starting up your bus. All you need is to install a DVR and you can adjust the volume on your surround sound so the Yosemite waterfalls will sooth you to sleep, and the crashing Newport Beach waves will wake you naturally in the morning and so you can listen to the Sherpas and their clients as they hike up the ridge in the crunching snow as you take your morning shower.
If you want to drive your bus down the narrow streets of Italy, you can project an image on the front windscreen and tie in all other TVs in the bus to be in sync with the front screen so if you miss seeing something in the front "window" you can turn around and look out the side "window" to get a better look. In fact, when the price of fuel goes up, you won't even need to start up your bus to see the world. You no longer have to go to Disneyland to experience virtual reality as it is very simple and inexpensive to create our own environment and save fossil fuels at the same time. And for those of you who would like to get up and make coffee whilst driving down Abbey Road in London, you will have no problem of your bus running into a Bobbie.
Check out the system to get you started at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hg7evywJToQ&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hg7evywJToQ&feature=youtu.be)
Premier Services has the technology now to set up your bus for a very unique experience. Soon everybody will be doing this, be one of the first. When you call them, mention the "Hatt" Promo Code and and that will immediately get their attention.
Don't tempt me...flat screens don't let cold or heat in :) Krank, one thing I have to mention and just share my thoughts about:
The foamer was sure that foaming the coach would make it quieter...engine noise, road noise, etc. He literally filled the interior wheel wells with foam, all of them. But here's where truth and fiction collide in terms of acoustics. Yes, the coach is a bit quieter than when I was driving around with no floor nothing in the walls etc. Quieter mostly because there's a physical barrier minimizing the sound. But in terms of truly quieting the coach, spray foam isn't really good at that. It is 2lb density foam. This stuff makes your canned spray foam look like childs play. Because it's so dense, it is hard. Hard foam acts more like a timpanic drum than it does absorb or deaden sound. To illustrate this, if you go to lowes and grab a pink or blue foam board, you can tap on the surface of it and it acts like a drum of sorts. If you took a memory foam topper of the same width and tapped on it, no sound would pass through. So yeah, it's really good at insulating and mainly stopping air movement (my goal here) but no so much for acoustics.
I see your point about noise migration/transfer. I was meaning more the shake rattle & roll from all the skin vibration not really from outside noise sources.
The thing I worried about most is the squeaks if any de-lamination from the aluminium occurs. I did apply an adhesive to the bare spots before spraying to aid in the fight against speaks. I guess time will tell.
hi Gary there is a computer device, that travels images in proper perspective from one screen to another, just like looking from one window to another, I would get organic LEDS, OLEDs, as the blacks in the pictures will be more realistic, Sean Shanks might know the name of the device, lvmci...
Interesting point. I do honestly believe over time the foam will separate from the metal everywhere. And at that point it could squeak. Something to keep in mind for anyone considering spray foam
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I really like the camera/monitor "window" idea.
Can I build another bus?
the spray foam is amazing ... the best money you can spend on a coach . only problem we have found is when it is raining cats and dogs out it is load inside
but we can put up with that for all the good it dose .
dave
Dave got me thinking a little bit more about cold and heat transfer through the metal studs. So I think I'm going to add one more layer of foam board to separate the wood from the metal. I was doing some research on reflectiX and I'm not very impressed by what I've been reading.
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big heat transfer thru metal ribs. Heat sensing thermal gun in full sun= 85 on foam and 135 on steel ribs. outside about 90 at time. Think of toaster elements. Just need a thin thermal break to make big difference. Also on ceiling we used batting(quilt) over insulation with marine vinyl for ceiling= really quieten down. Bob
I glued/screwed 3/4" boards across all my wall/ceiling studs and leveled the foam to the boards. This gave me 3/4" more foam plus all my metal was hidden.
Then I added 1/2" plywood to the boards.
But, I wish I had thought of the camera trick...
Wonder if you can get a sun tan sitting in front of a monitor?
Quote from: krank on May 22, 2016, 06:17:09 PM
Wonder if you can get a sun tan sitting in front of a monitor?
:) you won't get one looking out the window in Manitoba :)
Since Gary loves his system so much, maybe we should all get them and he can network them into this website so we can change our views to what the others are seeing! Even Manitoba...
Scott and Tikvah, How did you'll level the foam to the top of Your furring strips? Does painters tape keep the foam from sticking to the face of the furring strips? I plan to drape everything else with plastic drop cloths including the sides under open windows. Any other suggestions?
Art
Quote from: Scott Bennett on May 22, 2016, 07:55:26 AM
Dave got me thinking a little bit more about cold and heat transfer through the metal studs. So I think I'm going to add one more layer of foam board to separate the wood from the metal. I was doing some research on reflectiX and I'm not very impressed by what I've been reading.
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Scott - I used reflectix between the metal and my furring strips. It worked great. Zero heat transfer. Previously the wood screwed directly into the metal ribs would get very hot on a sunshiney day. You could run your hand across the wall and it was very obvious where the ribs were.
Here is a pic showing a furring strip with the reflectix as the thermal break
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What dont you like about the reflectix?
I used reflectix between the metal and the furring strips as well and I can definitely notice a huge difference.
Art, we have 2lb density spray foam. It's incredibly tough stuff. Nothing like the can foam. We had to use a vibrating multi tool to shave the foam down. Or pay the foamer to do it. Heather spent about 12 hours doing this. Shanks, I have been reading more about the real science behind radiant barriers and for them to really work properly, you need an air space. I know that reflectiX works because we used it in our 9 and it made a difference. But, for direct contact with metal squished down by wood screwed to said metal, it just didn't quite prove worthy of its cost versus the thick sill seal foam rolls we bought. I can't justify the cost for almost $600 worth of reflectiX when it has the same or less r value than the sill seal foam roll. The radiant barrier part would be nice, but there's more science to this and the more you research the more you'll find that insulation and radiant barriers are a little more complex to make work than I originally thought.
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We installed plastic backed felt to dampen sound and provide a soft quiet surface for the interior wood to sit on. If the wood was installed against the foam, it would squeak. Now it will be acoustically quiet. (https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fuploads.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F20160525%2Fe585140458923dc209e75e8bc65ef099.jpg&hash=4fcac82c3137221c7254b80e380ac18c4c8dba26)
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QuoteScott and Tikvah, How did you'll level the foam to the top of Your furring strips? Does painters tape keep the foam from sticking to the face of the furring strips? I plan to drape everything else with plastic drop cloths including the sides under open windows. Any other suggestions?
I used a 4" grinder with a wire type wheel (like heavy cable looking wires) rather easy, but time consuming. I didn't tape the studs but the foam will certainly stick to everything. So be sure to protect EVERYTHING that could be touched by foam (windows, roof vents, etc). This stuff won't clean off - ever.
(https://d2pbmlo3fglvvr.cloudfront.net/product/full/Z0uG_-jcpEx_.JPG)
I had some wires dangling here and there that I taped. My roof vents were already installed, so I covered the wires with hose, then just trimmed the hose when we were done and had nicely protected wires.
Scott, our foam wasn't super hard. They actually played with a couple different mixtures during our process. They started with a hard product, but switched to a more common foam. It would be interesting to know the pros and cons of various mixtures. The guys who did mine didn't know what they were doing. They really made a mess, but I worked out okay.
My foam guy has been actually spraying for 18 years. He used two pound density which is a very dense hard foam. The upside is that it has really good insulating qualities and it's very very strong, the downside is that it does reverberate sound probably a little bit more than a softer foam would.
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My foam is rock hard as well. Supposedly 2lb density. I used to spray back in the 80s and it was called 2lb back then but was much more pliable. Maybe specs have been re-written n the last 30 years.
I wonder. The foam guys were convinced that the coach would be quiet and I just nodded and smiled. That foam is so hard that it really just doesn't qualify as an acoustical treatment whatsoever...I think like you said, it tightened the metal skins up and eliminated any loose type rattling, but boom noise didn't change at all.
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Scott,
Do you have another name for the "plastic backed felt"? My searches end up with tar paper.
Art
Quote from: ArtGill on May 29, 2016, 04:53:49 PM
Scott,
Do you have another name for the "plastic backed felt"? My searches end up with tar paper.
Art
maybe...
http://www.amazon.com/Polymat-Charcoal-Speaker-Interior-Cabinet/dp/B003NKHOSU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage (http://www.amazon.com/Polymat-Charcoal-Speaker-Interior-Cabinet/dp/B003NKHOSU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
Actually it's much simpler. It's wood flooring underlayment from Home Depot. Pretty tough stuff. It's making our wood quiet against the foam.
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