Hello everyone,
As some of you may recall, Dee and I bought a 1986 bluebird Wanderlodge PT 40 this past fall. I am going through a few systems before our big trip later this summer.
I currently have the radiator at a shop being re-cored so while I am in there, I am going to replace all coolant hoses and difficult to access hydraulic hoses. Of course, the deeper I go the more I find.
One item some folks at the Wanderlodge forum recommend I replace the air compressor. They recommend upgrading from the Tu-Flo 550 to the 750. The problem is that I cannot seem to find it 750 listed for the 8V92, only for Series 50 and 60. Is it the same compressor? Any help would be appreciated.
Not to pass the buck , but someone on the Blue Bird forum could probably tell what they used, what model part number,and especially if it is indexed differently. Also Luke at USCoach in New Jersey could probably help or recommend who to contact.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.bendix.com/media/documents/BW1114QuickReferenceCatalog.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjKvMqE0uPMAhWINz4KHesqCtAQFghGMAI&usg=AFQjCNFKA3vO7fHARFPVOPUExSmhGDf9AQ (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.bendix.com/media/documents/BW1114QuickReferenceCatalog.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjKvMqE0uPMAhWINz4KHesqCtAQFghGMAI&usg=AFQjCNFKA3vO7fHARFPVOPUExSmhGDf9AQ)
That link should be for the Bendix service literature PDF. You can contact their number to get help on the correct upgrade. You will need the numbers off your current compressor.
The catalog reflects the latest engines and have dropped much info on the 71 series DDA's, but the replacements are still available.
No they are not the same but the 750 should be easy to find just match the tilt
Quote from: chessie4905 on May 18, 2016, 05:37:20 AM
Not to pass the buck , but someone on the Blue Bird forum could probably tell what they used, what model part number,and especially if it is indexed differently. Also Luke at USCoach in New Jersey could probably help or recommend who to contact.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.bendix.com/media/documents/BW1114QuickReferenceCatalog.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjKvMqE0uPMAhWINz4KHesqCtAQFghGMAI&usg=AFQjCNFKA3vO7fHARFPVOPUExSmhGDf9AQ[/url
That link should be for the Bendix service literature PDF. You can contact their number to get help on the correct upgrade. You will need the numbers off your current compressor.
The catalog reflects the latest engines and have dropped much info on the 71 series DDA's, but the replacements are still available.
(https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.bendix.com/media/documents/BW1114QuickReferenceCatalog.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjKvMqE0uPMAhWINz4KHesqCtAQFghGMAI&usg=AFQjCNFKA3vO7fHARFPVOPUExSmhGDf9AQ)
Thanks for the reply. The guys at the Wanderlodge forum are great, but I have not gotten an answer to this question and want to get parts lined up as soon as possible so I can get everything back together.
Quote from: luvrbus on May 18, 2016, 05:53:41 AM
No they are not the same but the 750 should be easy to find just match the tilt
Thanks Clifford. Sounds like I need to match it up in person. There is a Fleetpride around the corner from my office. I'll check with them.
Unless you are having a problem, why change? It hasn't needed a larger one for all of it's life and has done the job. Some people just like to spend money.
Jack
I have another question... I have both exhaust manifolds off to replace the gaskets and I have ordered new studs, washers and nuts from the local Detroit dealer. When I removed the manifolds, all but one nut came off quite easily, leaving the studs in place. Should I necessarily go to the trouble of replacing the studs? Or is it ok to reuse the originals?
Leave and reuse the existing studs
Quote from: thejumpsuitman on May 18, 2016, 05:56:13 AM
There is a Fleetpride around the corner from my office. I'll check with them.
Whee! Elvissing must be a really good business to have an office. Good for you!
Glad to hear the gig is working out for you.
Quote from: John316 on May 18, 2016, 06:05:15 AM
Whee! Elvissing must be a really good business to have an office. Good for you!
Glad to hear the gig is working out for you.
Thanks John. Unfortunately an Elvis career has an expiration date and can rarely afford an office. I work for a great company though.
Quote from: blue_goose on May 18, 2016, 05:59:38 AM
Unless you are having a problem, why change? It hasn't needed a larger one for all of it's life and has done the job. Some people just like to spend money.
Jack
It has started to become slow to recover air after braking so I figured might as well upgrade since I'm already in there.
Quote from: luvrbus on May 18, 2016, 06:03:09 AM
Leave and reuse the existing studs
I was hoping you would say that. ;D
Quote from: thejumpsuitman on May 18, 2016, 06:28:27 AM
It has started to become slow to recover air after braking so I figured might as well upgrade since I'm already in there.
Most of us do the same Mark it doesn't cost anymore
Typically, the air compressor intake is attached to the pressure side (after the turbo) of the engine intake. Even though the air compressor might take a long time to build pressure in the morning, notice how fast the pressure comes up if you're pulling a hill with the turbo whistling. Keep the same compressor model. Good Luck, TomC
on the 71, the (or at least some) of the exhaust studs go into the water jacket so need to be sealed. When I upgraded my compressor I got a TF700 in trade for the 600 that was on the bus. I got a Bendix factory rebuild, the core just goes back to Bendix and I guess they didn't care that it wasn't an exact match. There are a ton of pipe-thread ports all over the place for optional oil and water in and out takes, and mine came with a bag of plugs that I had to insert to plug all of the unused ports. I also had to swap over the drive gear/spline.
Quote from: bevans6 on May 18, 2016, 07:49:53 AM
on the 71, the (or at least some) of the exhaust studs go into the water jacket so need to be sealed. When I upgraded my compressor I got a TF700 in trade for the 600 that was on the bus. I got a Bendix factory rebuild, the core just goes back to Bendix and I guess they didn't care that it wasn't an exact match. There are a ton of pipe-thread ports all over the place for optional oil and water in and out takes, and mine came with a bag of plugs that I had to insert to plug all of the unused ports. I also had to swap over the drive gear/spline.
Indeed. I already ordered new studs from Detroit and the come with the sealer on them. The one stud that came out definitely went into the water jacket. BTW, I enjoyed your surplus 8v71 modification thread... And you are right, there are a ton of extra ports and Bluebird seemed to use most of them when they designed this coach.
Be careful to get a quality rebuilt. Some companies just throw parts at them and in a few thousand miles you are starting to get significant oil in the air tanks.
Hey Mark,
Our 1991 Prevost H340 came with the 750 compressor on the 8V92. It still recovers well but needs a rebuild this winter. I am planning on pulling the engine to replace all the hoses and lines and maybe wiring this winter. Also clean and paint the engine framing.
Hope you and Dee are doing well.
Tom & Karen
Quote from: tomhamrick on May 18, 2016, 12:00:56 PM
Hey Mark,
Our 1991 Prevost H340 came with the 750 compressor on the 8V92. It still recovers well but needs a rebuild this winter. I am planning on pulling the engine to replace all the hoses and lines and maybe wiring this winter. Also clean and paint the engine framing.
Hope you and Dee are doing well.
Tom & Karen
Hi Tom,
Well pulling the engine out would sure make it easy to get to everything. ;D. It was good to see you and Karen last month!
Quote to recore my radiator is $3,425. Does that seem reasonable?
Quote from: thejumpsuitman on May 18, 2016, 03:14:51 PM
Quote to recore my radiator is $3,425. Does that seem reasonable?
Nope it should be around 2 grand if you take the radiator to them
Quote from: luvrbus on May 18, 2016, 05:09:15 PM
Nope it should be around 2 grand if you take the radiator to them
i
Seemed real high to me. I was thinking $2,000-$2,500 but wanted to make sure I wasn't the crazy one. ;D
Quote from: luvrbus on May 18, 2016, 06:03:09 AM
Leave and reuse the existing studs
Good advice, you don't want the grief of one breaking off flush requiring drilling, or putting in replacements that turn out to be made in China.
Diesel radiator in Illinois will do it for less than $2000 from what I recall
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk