When skinning the sides would you go with Sikaflex 221 or more of a Sikabond construction adhesive? Or alternative product like Loctite Power Grab?
I am pricing the different usable products right now; interested with what has been successfully used and what is recommended. This will be for skinning the sides with aluminum sheets.
I just did skin on my DL3 and I started with the sikabond, ran out and ended up getting the loctite ultimate power grab. The loctite was a better product hands down, and there was no need for shoring or bracing. Once stuck in place, it was stuck. I used a heavy guage aluminum sheet so it was kinda heavy.
I like the thought of the Loctite Power Grab. Sika makes there own version of it, Sikabond Ultimate Grab: http://www.homedepot.com/p/SikaBond-10-1-fl-oz-Interior-and-Exterior-Ultimate-Grab-Adhesive-476098/205671703 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/SikaBond-10-1-fl-oz-Interior-and-Exterior-Ultimate-Grab-Adhesive-476098/205671703)
I feel like Sika has stood the test of time, that is the only thing that worries me about the Loctite. About how much adhesive did you end up needing (approximate number of tubes)? Someone is selling 24 tubes of Sikaflex 211 for $150... seems like it would be a good buy. I am pricing the adhesive to 3m VHB tape right now. I may go with the tape for the majority of the skin and use Sika on the upper/lower joint.
Also, I appreciate the information you helped me out with on the generator. I ended up getting a 3000 watt Honda inverter generator and it surprisingly ran the welder very well for what I needed; didn't skip a beat. I was very excited to finally get welding on the frame of the bus. It will just be a matter of time till the roof is raised and I can build up the interior!
Sikaflex are time tested products that have a track record on buses, I do not know about Locktite's record over time. Remember to heat the panel so that it is under tension and use some mechanical connectors to hold it in place while the glue sets, otherwise the panels will show ripples in the sun. Check Dave Galey's book on fasteners.
He was using the Sika ultimate and he claimed it still didn't have the initial stick that the Loctite did...
I use Silkaflex 220+ both for direct glass installation and metal window blank outs and seam sealer. What I like best about the product is that it remains flexible over a wide temp range and it can be painted. What I like least is that it is impossible to get off your skin though it cleans up easily on most smooth substrates merely by wiping off the excess followed by a few swipes with a paper towel soaked in mineral spirits.
I did find that it did not bond to polycarbonate plastic (3M double sided tape --the expensive stuff--worked just fine). I haven't tried Silkaflex on other plastics so I can only speak to the one. Jack
Another option is 3M 5200. I used it to attach an aluminum sheet to the fiberglass front cap, and on 0.080 aluminum for blanking off some windows. So far, so good. It´s intended for underwater use, so for buses it should be fine (I hope!).
John