My bus has a body structure designed and built by Wright out of Northern Ireland. They aren't particularly friendly to aftermarket inquiries. I'm starting to dig into the walls to get to all the extrusion channel it's built from and figure out where to source fasteners and connectors. Has anyone else out there done this?
In particular, one of the channel profiles has a very narrow-edged channel that I can't figure out how to attach to. The opening is about 0.45" wide and 0.15" deep, and the channel behind that is about 0.65" wide and 0.40" deep. I don't know if I'm going to be able to find T-nuts that will work with that narrow of an edge. I'm also not sure where I might source any sort of anchor that could grip the walls of the channel.
You might try posting some photos so those that may comment know what you are talking about.
Are you looking for captive nuts? If so, how about Riv-Nuts, or U-nuts, or jack nuts (I've recently used some for attaching things to fiberglass), or (but only for permanent attachments) toggle nuts? Look through the Grainger and McMaster-Carr catalogs - you may find something suitable there. Or can you rivet on a plate or angle that can then be used for the bolt?
John
Quote from: scanzel on March 23, 2016, 03:28:37 AM
You might try posting some photos so those that may comment know what you are talking about.
I can't get a photo from any angle that would be useful. If anyone know what aluminum extrusion/channel looks like, my description above will be more illustrative than any photo. If they don't, they certainly don't know the answer to my question.
Quote from: Iceni John on March 23, 2016, 07:45:12 AM
Are you looking for captive nuts? If so, how about Riv-Nuts, or U-nuts, or jack nuts (I've recently used some for attaching things to fiberglass), or (but only for permanent attachments) toggle nuts? Look through the Grainger and McMaster-Carr catalogs - you may find something suitable there. Or can you rivet on a plate or angle that can then be used for the bolt?
None of those nut options seem suitable for a channel rather than a blind hole. Drilling new holes for rivets or through-bolts is my last resort.
so... this is like a miniature uni-strut.... ???
(https://img1.fastenal.com/productimages/11106622_hr4c.jpg)
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11106629?r=~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600072%20Nuts%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22609570%20Hurricane%20Nuts%22|~ (https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11106629?r=~%7Ccategoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl2:%22600072%20Nuts%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl3:%22609570%20Hurricane%20Nuts%22%7C~)
Quote from: eagle19952 on March 23, 2016, 01:40:47 PM
so... this is like a miniature uni-strut.... ???
It's like a full size aluminum extrusion channel.
Something sorta like this: (https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.leevalley.com%2Fen%2Fimages%2Fitem%2FHardware%2FFasteners%2F12k7932-av1.jpg&hash=4511e9d6ce5b9166d5a6846a613450e1b0dc7009)
The nuts I'm looking for might be shaped like this (they twist on the bolt axis after being inserted, so part of the nut ends up behind the lip of the channel) http://www.framingtech.com/c3/c54/c55/t-nut-6-mm-slot-p535.html (http://www.framingtech.com/c3/c54/c55/t-nut-6-mm-slot-p535.html) or like this (they insert into a channel one edge at a time, then get pulled into alignment and hit the lips) https://www.inventables.com/technologies/post-assembly-t-slot-nuts (https://www.inventables.com/technologies/post-assembly-t-slot-nuts) (with or without the spring).
not sure where you are located but that extrusion is pretty much what i would call miniature unistrut ;D
Instead of nuts, would bolts work? I was mounting seats in the 4107 and wanted to use the original floor channel, similar to the picture you posted. I bought some seat mounting bolts from MCI. The head was a parallelogram, -- essentially a diamond shape similar to the nut picture you posted. Corners were slightly rounded. While they didn't fit the GM slots, the idea was that the head goes into the slot on the narrow axis, then rotated to grip the sides of the extrusion.
Just the same concept as toilet bolts -- which may be another option.
Arthur
Similar to Runcutter, I simply "adjusted" plain hex bolt heads with the bench grinder to fit the side wall seat channel in my MC8 to make attachment points.
A couple of sacrificial prototypes, then a set of snug 1/4 turn bolts to place at will.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Quote from: sparr on March 23, 2016, 03:15:10 PM
It's like a full size aluminum extrusion channel.
Something sorta like this: (https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.leevalley.com%2Fen%2Fimages%2Fitem%2FHardware%2FFasteners%2F12k7932-av1.jpg&hash=4511e9d6ce5b9166d5a6846a613450e1b0dc7009)
The nuts I'm looking for might be shaped like this (they twist on the bolt axis after being inserted, so part of the nut ends up behind the lip of the channel) http://www.framingtech.com/c3/c54/c55/t-nut-6-mm-slot-p535.html (http://www.framingtech.com/c3/c54/c55/t-nut-6-mm-slot-p535.html) or like this (they insert into a channel one edge at a time, then get pulled into alignment and hit the lips) https://www.inventables.com/technologies/post-assembly-t-slot-nuts (https://www.inventables.com/technologies/post-assembly-t-slot-nuts) (with or without the spring).
The nuts I showed you (in the proper size) would slide right in that channel. one could actually then use a (for example) 1/4-20 counter sunk screw for smooth/flush mounting. Additionally it would be rather simple to adapt elevator bolts if having the threaded portion of your attachment that way ...
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ap-magazine.com%2Fupload%2Ffastener%2FProduct%2FImage1%2FNut00514m158444.jpg&hash=45667fc08b69e7e2824c6940562f787fee4d6cbe)
Quote from: sparr on March 22, 2016, 07:10:41 PM
My bus has a body structure designed and built by Wright out of Northern Ireland. They aren't particularly friendly to aftermarket inquiries. I'm starting to dig into the walls to get to all the extrusion channel it's built from and figure out where to source fasteners and connectors. Has anyone else out there done this?
In particular, one of the channel profiles has a very narrow-edged channel that I can't figure out how to attach to. The opening is about 0.45" wide and 0.15" deep, and the channel behind that is about 0.65" wide and 0.40" deep. I don't know if I'm going to be able to find T-nuts that will work with that narrow of an edge. I'm also not sure where I might source any sort of anchor that could grip the walls of the channel.
This kind of construction is quite similar to Gillig Low-Floor buses in the US. Good luck with finding part you need.
At the local Woodcraft store yesterday, I saw two types of nuts that might work. "Sliding T Nuts", and "Oval Nuts." Those carried by Woodcraft are their house brand, Wood River (Sliding T Nuts, various sizes), and Woodpeckers (Oval Nuts). These may be options, but I'd be concerned about load capacity. They're designed for use in jigs, woodworking equipment miter slots, etc.
There are other sources for this hardware. Depending on your location, there may be a store near you, or you might want to go to the Woodcraft website.
In general, I'd personally prefer bolts to nuts, so a "Sliding T Bolt" may be an option. Similar to what's been pictured. The reason I'd prefer bolts is that you can get one length, cut shorter if needed. Acorn nuts could dress up the outside appearance. My concern about nuts is that the bolt has to be just the right length, long enough to engage all the nut threads, but short enough not to bottom out. In a lot of channel stock, that's a real close measurement.
I took pictures of the above mentioned nuts hanging on the shelf at Woodcraft, but the JPEG wouldn't attach -- too big. When it failed to attach, it took my entire response away, so I had to retype the whole thing.
Arthur
It's looking like I'm going to need to buy over-sized T-bolts or T-nuts and machine them down to fit. With such a narrow lip I can't afford to buy the next smaller size that already fits.