We're at the mechanic shop having some work done.
Well to make a long story short, what started out as an exhaust leak, turned out to be a broken exhaust manifold (along with snapped off center bolts).
We're working on the bolts tomorrow, hoping to back them out using heat and elbow grease.
But the broken manifold is another issue all together.
I need the right bank (the side up inside the engine) manifold for a 6v92.
If anyone has a line on one, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks
George
Well based on what I'm seeing online, maybe it's the LH one??
It's the one up inside the engine bay and has the longer exhaust tube with a 90 on it.
Casting number? Also make sure exhaust pipe attached to it isn't stressing it, causing the failure. Or use heat or penetrant to loosen bolts next time ???
I just ordered driver side and passenger side for my 6v92 ta and I know that leid's diesel has each side new old stock . about $ 225 each
https://www.google.ca/maps/place/Leid+Diesel+Services/@40.1725459,-77.354677,15z/data= (https://www.google.ca/maps/place/Leid+Diesel+Services/@40.1725459,-77.354677,15z/data=)!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xc0c7f53129975d12
give them a call
dave
Dave,
Is that Leid Diesel in Newville, PA? The link provided got clobbered somehow.
Do you have a number for them?
Chessie,
I don't think the pipe is stressing it. The broken piece is on the opposite corner of the pipe. It's about a 1" piece slightly down on the corner/side.
The casting number in the manifold is 5107059
yes it is leid 's 717 776 4127 ask for Irvin
not sure if they are the same on your 6v92ta
I sent him a pix of mine sitting on the bench and yes only the 1 " end of the manifold was cracked until I removed it . but it was right through , so I removed the other side and it was the same . remember if a stud comes out with the nut SO DOES ALL THE ANTIFREEZE . don't ask how I know this .... drain it first
both broken parts were at the back of the bus on the manifolds and the passenger side look ok until I removed it , but you could see it had been broken for a some time
I ended up getting them from my local guy but lieds has them
dave
I have a good set for the 6v92 top mount turbo PM me I'll make you a deal on both but expect around 60 bucks for shipping fwiw
Clifford,
I PMed you yesterday, but I'm not sure if you saw it.
Dave,
I called those folks in PA and talked to Irvin. It sounds like he has the right manifold (it was difficult to tell for sure, but I gave him the casting number three times as he assured me he'd call if there were any issues ::)) and is shipping it here next week.
Thanks for their contact info!
The latest update is in attempting to back those bolts out, both snapped off as well :-\
We obviously tried lots and lots of different thread unlocking compounds, heat, etc. They appear to have turned slightly (a thread or two) then snapped, both with equal... vigor.
I'm not sure there was any hope for them.
In any case, what we're trying now is to drill out the bolts. That is needless to say a slow, frustrating, and difficult process; especially at the odd angle working from above. I managed to get a 3/16" bit through the bolts. The problem now, however, is based on the angle and my limited visibility, the hole is not exactly centered. So I can't really step up to a larger bit without risking hitting the thread. So what was already a sucky job is now even suckier as I have to keep at it with a 3/16" to bite away at the thicker side.
Any tips or tricks that might be useful here would be greatly appreciated.
I worked on it (very slowly) for hours yesterday.
I've stopped for now since the new manifold won't be here till next week. I'll pick up the fun sometime tomorrow or Monday (can you tell I'm not at all that excited about that ;D).
Is there enough left of them to weld a nut or bolt to them? Can you find the right size easyout to screw into your hole and turn them out? Hammering on them sometimes helps free them up...
JC
I have never done this but I have seen it done many times by an old time welder where I used to live. He would put a washer around the broken stud or bolt and then a flat piece of steel was welded to the broken piece. He told me the washer would keep the flat piece from attaching to the block. He then would take a wrench while it was still hot and turn it out. Like I said I never did it but saw it many times.
HTH
Melbo
If you broke a stud in the head you need to drain the coolant to remove or drill those out