Hey Busnuts,what is the correct name for the Adhesive ,Silky or Silkiance and where do you buy it. I know what the tube look's like but I have Tried Lowes,Ace and the auto part's stores but can't seem to find it .I need to glue the trim piece back on one of my bay door handles.As always,I appreciate all the help that you guy's give me .
Sikaflex ?
3M 5200 is my choice
Thanks Guy's .SILKAFLEX was the name I could not remember.If I can't find it ,then I'll latch on to some 5200 .I did see that on my search! Thanks very much and have a BLESSED DAY!!
FWIW the Loctite Super Polyurethane Adhesive from Lowes is not bad (8 bucks a tube),the cure time is slower but it works I used it in the past with good results
I had the opportunity to use an old standard I have used a lot in my resident building, it is Vulkem 116 and this one has vertical ability. A main reason I used it was an order of sikaflex was canceled by my rivet supplier and requiring me to make subsequent call asking what happened. I found out they were nice and professional enough to say there is a born on date and have issues if passing that. (sorry ) I then called the local 40 mile away rv dealer and then having more knowledge I ask about a date and was informed theirs was outdated. Fwiw
I really don't know where to look on the great product I have heard about, just it was not available when I needed it. That's what makes opportunity as here.
So this is the reason I used my standard as mentioned above and agree to say its is a bit slower to cure in my comparing, though a great product I was not in a hurry so used Vulkem 116 as many times.
As Clifford mentioned also Loctite has a super product, I have used this in my same project though a different task, primarily I needed black to put a bit of sealant on the edges of the black rubber bay bumpers while re bolting them on. Then removing the excess I think it worked good, so that's my reasoning and say these products will perform. I believe the Loctite s30 I used is a slightly quicker cure product in the products I used, again I wasn't moving the bus for at least a week and both were fine.
my 2 cents
Floyd
Cliff, so to adhere my 36'x6' aluminum skins to the galvaneal skins I already have on my 102 can I use sika or something else? I don't plan on riveting it much.
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I use Silkaflex 220+ for both glass and metal. It is paintable and stays flexible. Wear latex gloves and use mineral spiriots for immediate clean up. You can buy it from your local glass jobber for about ten bucks a cartridge. It is now what windshields are "glued" in with. Jack
A galvanic corrosion cell can be likened to a dry cell battery for ease of understanding:
- The two metals in your construction (aluminum and zinc) act like the carbon and zinc in a battery, with their difference in electrochemical potential providing the driving force. Depending on the particular aluminum alloy, this potential difference between it and the zinc might be around 0.2 volts rather than the 1.5 volts potential difference between carbon and zinc.
- Ambient moisture and accumulated salts play the role of the conductive glop in a battery. Unless bleach is used for cleaning, or some other unusual circumstance, the environment will probably be fairly dry and non-conductive.
- Physically connecting the two metals without insulators between them is like connecting the positive and negative poles of a battery with wire. When it's practical to use insulators you should, and then there is no possibility of galvanic corrosion.
I have seen somewhat similar construction to what you speak of -- galvanized steel and anodized aluminum -- used in outdoor construction with no problem, so it should be even less of a problem in indoor use. That is probably because zinc and aluminum are pretty close galvanically and anodized aluminum has a non-conductive anodized film on it which limits the metal-to-metal contact. But where I've seen it, galvanized U-Bolts clamped to the aluminum, so there was less disruption of the anodized film than if you drill it, exposing bare aluminum, and screw it together. But if the bolts are large I would use galvanized bolts rather than zinc electroplated bolts; and if they are small (and consequently affordable) I would use stainless steel bolts.
It's also important to realize that "good enough" always depends on circumstances. Galvanized bolts on aluminum bleachers is one thing, and is probably okay, especially indoors, but galvanized bolts can absolutely not be used to connect aluminum aircraft parts. Good luck
I found this on the internet
not sure if this will create a problem
dave
Bigred,
You mention you want to reattach a trim piece on a handle. One thing to consider is that with 3M 5200 and Loctite S40 (both of which I've used with great success), after you've opened the tube it will all eventually harden and become unusable, so you want to use as much of the tube as soon as possible. 3M 5200 is too expensive to only use a small amount from the tube - it also has a set-up time of 5 days, so the work needs to be securely clamped in place during that time. Maybe a two-part epoxy would be better for what you're doing?
John
John:The reason for using a caulk type material is that the Prevost bay door handles are flat ,The trim covers are fluted to match the siding,so it is imperative that it be a caulk and an adhesive together IE to fill the flutes and glue them the flat Prevost handle.I actually have it on now with 3M two sided trim tape .