as it is still winter and there have been a lot of talk about how to heat your coach .
I have infloor heat now with a pro heat 4500 diesel boiler it works great when driving but uses to much dc power when not on the poll .
so I was thinking if I were to redo my heating system how about a home propane tankless hot water boiler rather then the diesel unit I have now .
they are really efficient and safe and you could put a main loop to heat up domestic hot water or use as a heat source through a forced air rad or infloor loops
all with 1 or 2 small ac pumps working off a thermostat for heat and the power use would be small + the propane is onboard now .
has any one done anything like this ?
or a better idea ?
dave
Most of the tankless units require a flow of water through them. So you would be trading one large DC pump for another DC pump. Not how that is going to work out. I have small Webasto pumps on each of my hot water loops (they each pull about 0.6 amp 24 volt) with 24 volt toe-kicks with pancake motors pulling about 0.5 amps 24 volt and a Webasto top C that pulls on the order of 2 amp. Not a lot power consumption.
Dave, read this narrative. Very informative info about what you want to do:
http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2014/02/16/the-radiant-heat-experiment/
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You'll burn about 25% more propane than Diesel since propane put out about 25% less heat per gallon than Diesel. Plus if it gets really cold-like below zero, Propane quits flowing. Good Luck, TomC
I think you are right on the old rv furances . but I put my lazer therm. on the exhaust pipe of my pro heat and the temp was high 170 f hot , on my propane viessmann boiler ( 96 % ) I have at home I can hold my hand on the exhaust and it,s not hot at all
I like the pro heat for warming up the eng. , the floor heat when on the road is amazing would not want anything else . keep this system for on the road and as a back up system ( to loud when parked as it sound's like a small jet plane and is the loudest thing on my coach when it's on , other then 6v92ta )
but if I were to do a heating choice again I would use a small propane HOME furance ( 96% efficient 60,000 btu ) in the basement with a floor duct system to be used when parked like this 1
http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewproduct.cfm?productID=453069463 (http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewproduct.cfm?productID=453069463)
if there was a way to add a/c to the system at 120 volt , a guy could make a cold air return tower with a large vent at the top and the bottom that you could close off the vent you don't want , weather it is on a/c or heat ( I love my split unit a/c but need more size )
all I am saying is there must be a better way to get heat and a/c then the systems now as anything made for a rv are so bad on efficiency
we have been in mid Florida for a while now ( on a pole ) and the swing from a/c to heat has been up and down and so far have only needed the split unit heat pump up front for both and a little help with heat in the bed room from a cube heater on low when it cools down to 32 f out side. Just looking for a system that could handle the cold better ( because you know it's always hot in Florida )
any ideas ?
thanks dave
Dave does that Alpine furnace (or any home furnace for that matter) utilize a pilot light or electronic ignition? Pilot lights burn fuel...don't want one of those.
It would appear from the pics to be a non-pilot lighted, electronic ignition unit. When you look at the pic of the gas valve it has no dial or pilot setting on it. Only on/off and Hi/Lo. Also has a ignitor unit on the far right flame hole.
Ryan.
QuoteDave does that Alpine furnace (or any home furnace for that matter) utilize a pilot light or electronic ignition? Pilot lights burn fuel...don't want one of those.
Scott, very few these days use a standing pilot. And the few that do are available with the pilot model or the spark ignition model for the same price.
I've strongly considered using this method, I wish I had kept the coach duct work, then I would send a good percentage up the wall and across the windows to prevent condensation.
on most propane heating appliances after about 75 % efficient there is no pilot light , that is part of how they get so efficient .
the reason I like the propane furnace is because it has worked in homes for years , if you are not on the pole it is not a very big drain on your batteries or inverter to run the 120 v power + it should not use that much propane and that size unit should be over kill for the heat it puts out because of the 96% efficient . think of it this way for every $ 100 you use only $ 4 is wasted up the chimney and that is how they can use 2 " pvc pipe for the chimney and to pull outside fresh air in for the combustion air to run the furnace + the temperature of the exhaust is just above 100 f so it is very safe .
now with the rv furnace I have now it is so hot at the exhaust I can't put my hand any where near it with out a 3rd degree burn's so I know there is no efficiently
so if you are looking at a heating system and can rework the coach vent system so you can get vents in the back bedroom I think this would be the best bang for the buck
dave
On the other side of the coin, instead of spending $$$ or even $$$$ for a new or modified heating system, what about installing additional batteries to your bank? It may end up being le$$ than all the other changes, and give you way more capacity for your other items when your heat is not needed.
I have a Webasto 80K btu system, and I agree that it uses a bunch of DC power. I have a larger than average bank, and haven't had any difficulties. One of the bonuses when heat is not required....I can boondock for 4 days or more without running my generator.
Just my way............
I have a 250 amp 24 v bank now + I can add the 2 8d start batteries if I need to and all work great but the boiler is under the old crapper tank location , so it is load if you are in the bed room .
I was just thinking if I were to do another coach I think I would go to the furnace , duct system + have the diesel boiler as a cold start and a back up system
dave