I have a RV door latch on my coach. Usually I like it just fine. But occasionally the plunger snaps in two and I have to tear it apart and replace it. The latch itself seems to be out of stock and the replacements are a different size.
So, if I have to do a major latch rebuild on my door, what do you all suggest? What has worked well for you?
If possible include an Ebay link or other picture link.
Thanks,
Dave
what, exactly do you have now ?
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1239.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff504%2Ftikvahmarketing%2FIMG_1872_1.jpg&hash=a9beb7b712ca6f4034cbb53c40dbaad3c04c5182)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1239.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff504%2Ftikvahmarketing%2FIMG_1871.jpg&hash=ef752e51fc616c2c468ece16884339dfe3a6d7d2)
I have had similar issues. The RV type door latch we have has been out of production for decades. I was once lucky enough just to happen into one when it needed it. About 8 years later, that one failed, but I was able to put one together using the parts from the two broken ones. The one you show in the picture seems to be newer than mine though. Have you searched it by model #? If not available on Ebay, sometimes forums will be able to tell you what fits of replace it if it is no longer made.
In my case, since my door does not still have an air closure, there is a lot of stress on the tongue of the latch, and I think that is what does them in.
QuoteIn my case, since my door does not still have an air closure, there is a lot of stress on the tongue of the latch, and I think that is what does them in.
I think that's exactly right.
I did the same, I've taken the parts from the newer style and replaced the tongue of the latch. But, there must be something better.
I know some have talked of semi door latches, but I don't know what to buy and how it's done.
I believe the Tri/Mark 30900 is a direct replacement for that latch,I went with the Trimark 060-1650 if I had it to do over I would have went the same lock from Rec/Pro as I removed it's not a easy task to refit a different lock on a MCI door made of stainless steel find one that fits ::) I have a air lock installed at the top of my door to stop in and out movement that breaks those locks fwiw
QuoteI have a air lock installed at the top of my door to stop in and out movement that breaks those locks
Tell me about your air lock
It's 1 inch round cylinder with a wedge on the ram with a insert to match on the top of the door.I am going to remove my air claw when I do you can have it if you want the thing,it's air operated not a manual
Love to see a picture
Quote from: Tikvah on January 28, 2016, 07:06:33 AM
Love to see a picture
??? maybe on F/B I have no luck here with photos
Quotemaybe on F/B I have no luck here with photos
https://www.facebook.com/dave.rush.33 (https://www.facebook.com/dave.rush.33)
I think the real trouble comes when on the road, not when parked. The air lock should work to save it. I have also thought of installing some sort of manual setup that would pull the door in a bit for travel. It would also be extra night security. If you have any ideas along those lines, it would be interesting.
Oh, and one more thing. The tongue on my latch is aluminum and is weakly attached to a steel shaft. The last problem I had was the tongue and shaft separating. I was thinking of fashioning a steel tongue that could be welded to the shaft.
Here is the link to Fast Fred's article on the old coach conversion central site(which I think is otherwise defunct):
http://www.coachconversioncentral.com/FAST%20FRED.htm (http://www.coachconversioncentral.com/FAST%20FRED.htm)
I used a stainless house door knob and deadbolt. Haven't had a problem yet in five years of fulltiming in all weather.
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I went to a local semi truck salvage yard and searched the old truck doors until I found a latch system that would work. It took about an hour to find what I wanted, cost me $75 for the entire door (the dealer said he didn't want to mess with the labor to take it out of the door) and then about an hour taking it out of the door and 3-4 hours installing the latch. I had to make new actuating rods, bending them to fit my door, since the truck door was flat but my Prevost door has some curve to it but all in all, I am very happy with it and it MUCH heavier than any of the RV stuff.
Rob
Prevost XL40
Missouri
Rob: Any chance you have pictures? Gerry H
Rob,
The article I referenced shows some of the truck door latch system pictures and list part numbers too.
http://www.coachconversioncentral.com/FAST%20FRED.htm (http://www.coachconversioncentral.com/FAST%20FRED.htm)
Steve
Dave -
We are using the Trimark 060-1650 as well. No issues in a year. We had to have the door rebuilt around it. We chose that model because it was widely available and had seen it on 2 other buses.
Its a little different than what you have.
I think your problem is more in the door though. Ours has no pressure on the plunger or latch. The biggest issue we have is the heating and shrinking of the metal in the heat/cold causing it to stick sometimes.
-Sean
We put in a Tri-mark also remote locking handle with a rod that goes up to a Eberhard slam lock with bronze double commercial catch. I cut in the handle and where the pinch lock is high up had to cut the ss door and take the outside skin off to put it inside the door. Work smooth and locks well at the handle. It has an inside handle as well but it doesn t lock. For the inside we just lock the house type deadbolt at night. When we leave we can lock them both from the outside.
Dave5Cs
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Picture of mine. Works well. https://goo.gl/photos/b8HgeG7AerdTYkce8 (https://goo.gl/photos/b8HgeG7AerdTYkce8)
What I thought I would do next. Something like this.. http://www.bauerproducts.com/product-videos/ (http://www.bauerproducts.com/product-videos/)
Quote from: Brett G on February 13, 2016, 03:07:01 PMPicture of mine. Works well. https://goo.gl/photos/b8HgeG7AerdTYkce8 (https://goo.gl/photos/b8HgeG7AerdTYkce8)
Do you have a manufacturer, style or part number on this one, Brett??
Quote from: Brett G on February 13, 2016, 03:07:01 PMWhat I thought I would do next. Something like this.. http://www.bauerproducts.com/product-videos/ (http://www.bauerproducts.com/product-videos/)
Jahh Wohl, but tiss looks ferry Euroopean. Und vee haff vays aff tekkig alles aff yurr moneyiz!!! (I like the features etc but it's pretty bulky, and pretty much overkill for my bus, I think. But I'm betting it's *EXpensive*!)
Bargman 300 door lock is a great latch. Mine has seen a couple replacement parts in 35 years.
The RV style lock is fine as long as they have replacements to fit. Ours is a long discontinued one that is about 2.5 inches high and maybe 8 inches or so wide. I have not found anything else the would fill the hole. one could put a plate over the old hole and start over, but I certainly could not match the MCI stainless on the door.
Lin IBP industries can make a replacement piece of siding in the original configuration.
Dave5Cs
Dave, that's useful to know. For now I am getting by with making one good latch out of the two damaged ones I have. Apparently this lock was used a lot on old Airstreams. I have seen them listed on Ebay for between $300 and $400. I would definitely do something to the door before I went that route!