Wife and I are stuck. Bought our 102c3 with original window openings and they are too large. Need to make the opening slightly smaller. How do we do this without the expense of reskinning the coach. It's been skinned very very well and tight and silkaflexed and riveted. Want to reduce front down to just one window per side and slightly smaller openings all the way around
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Didn't Mike Kadletz just sheet the inside of the Moose Creeks and leave the original windows untouched? I'm thinking if you did it right it wouldn't have to be obvious from inside or outside.
Scott your saying you want to replace existing windows out to a smaller window, how small maybe and do you have a model of sorts to the interested ones.
Floyd
I can't think of how you will take a window out without skinning over the hole with something. What I would do if this was my job is take out both windows, frame in the new opening that I want to put a new smaller window in, and skin over everything down and along to a logical parting line. I'd have to be mightily upset with the existing windows to do that, though. I am a big fan of working with what I got.
Brian
My whole bus is sections of about 5' x 2 1/2' panels so it's relatively easy to pull a window, remove the panel with the hole in it and then install a new window. But, like Brian says, that's big work. Of course, you also have to install/redo the interior to match the new smaller window, etc. Oh, not cheap, either.
I think the bigger question is "why"?? Of all the different coaches we have owned, including the current one my wife and I have, and my parents 102C3, the number one thing compliment on is how open they feel, even without slides, because the big windows make them feel so spacious inside. I can't imagine why you would not like the bigger windows if you tried them. Also they appear to be the OEM windows, so you should be able to get sliders to fit into the existing frame, which really makes a nice factory look.
So Scott being you got all kinds of answers and opinions why others thought you shouldn't do it , it didn't really answer the question you asked. How about getting the windows you want to put in and filling around them with what ever the inside and outside material is. It could be riveted or sikaflexed etc in-place to backing you would put in the oversized hole to bring it down to size you need. Just remember water sheds downhill and under stuff. So sealing is your major priority. ;D
Good luck Dave
Put them in the laundry... ;D
Lol. You guys never cease to make me smile. Bob, did Mike indeed do that? It was high on my list of possible solutions. I was considering putting in a tinted (maybe mirror tint) slider, and on the outside it would look like a full sized Window. On the inside, I would wood over the half of the window that didn't slide (maybe not quite half, maybe 1/3D so the sliding part of the window would look like it slid into the wall. Pocket window per se. Only issue is condensation, but the window portion we don't use could be spray foamed. But what if the glass ever cracks?
Floyd, we currently have HEHR double pane windows in our mci 9 and we love them. I would probably go with similar Windows.
Brian, you have a point. Part of the issue is that our floor plan doesn't allow for 4 Windows up front. Takes up a ton of wall space that we need to utilize.
Oonrahn, our interior isn't converted yet. Completely just a shell.
Adam, conversation for another thread. Tons of reasons...spend some serious time fulltiming in extreme cold and extreme heat and you'll figure out two of them pretty quick.
Dave, I've considered this too. The galv steel sheeting he used to skin the bus is done so nicely. Once painted you won't be able to see seams or rivets. I'm afraid of trying to fill in the area that I might actually make it noticeable :( I'm not super talented in finessing that kind of fix sadly.
Here's the interior currently:
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Hi Scott, there's a rubber belt line missing from your bus under the window the drip line and rubber above the window seems to be there, you could easily layer another piece of the thin aluminum siding over top of your window hole left, but there's no bottom rubber belt to hide it now, lvmci
Galvanized sheeting should be a good base. I've never used Sikaflex between dissimilar metals but since you have access to the inside and outside, you could cut a rectangular panel that's big enough to cover the current window cutout and remove the area where you want to install the new window. Then cut a piece of stiff plywood (or chipboard) the same size as the new panel and another that is about the same size but will fit inside the gal sheeting; put the outside ply against the galvanized and drill pilot holes about 4 in apart just inside the smaller cutout of the new panel and inside of the cutout edges. Then prepare your surfaces (assuming that Sika is OK for dissimilar metals or use another layer of galvanized), apply the adhesive, and press the new panel into place. Then run wood screws into your pilot holes to pull the two pieces of ply together firmly. You've got to get a good clamping effect to keep the two panels smooth to each other but it should be doable.
Very interesting. So basically patch it from the inside. What about the edge? It will show...especially with a. Glossy paint job...I would think the line would be visible. I'm thinking I may actually have to remove the windows, and skin the coach again along the window line maybe right on top of the galvanized. Ugh.
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Quote from: Scott Bennett on January 24, 2016, 03:14:09 PMVery interesting. So basically patch it from the inside. What about the edge? It will show...especially with a. Glossy paint job...I would think the line would be visible. I'm thinking I may actually have to remove the windows, and skin the coach again along the window line maybe right on top of the galvanized. Ugh.
Scott, what I'm talking about is a patch on the outside. That way your seam will be large and rectangular - if you put the patch on the inside, the seam will be the size of the old window opening. (And I'm not sure it will work on your bus or any bus with galvanized siding, but think about it.) I guess if the seam or edge shows up too much you could Bondo it but it also seems that that's asking for trouble unless you're experienced with it.
Oh I see. So match it up to an already existing exterior seam....could do that....now you've got me thinking
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One of the many reasons I bought my transit is because of the big windows. Many people come into my bus and comment on how open it feels because of the big windows. I like them so much, on my truck conversion, I'm using slightly larger double pane windows. If anything, open up more window space-after all-aren't we traveling to see the sights? Good Luck, TomC
32 inch tv's and cameras make windows :) and cost less :)
I'm with Tom, the big windows are one of the main advantages of a bus, and if you use good thermal pain windows I can't imagine the weather is that much of an issue. I stay out of the cold, but have spent weeks in 100+ with no problems, and I have 6 standard D model windows in the front, and 2 in the bedroom, all thermal.
Before I removed already nicely done work I would leave them (good for resale) and make some good quality insulation filler boards that could fit from the inside to block them out when not desired.
So it would seem that the main reason you want to reduce windows is for winter. Summer is less of an issue. My inclination would be to do something flexible that would allow me to keep the windows that I have for enjoyment when not in extreme weather, and to come up with an acceptable, removable, and well insulated solution when needed. Although spray foam may be the best R value, it does not allow for flexibility. Polyiso foam gives very respectable numbers and can easily be designed to be movable.
n any case, I would not be concerned about altering the look outside and would concentrate on handling the whole adaption on the interior.
We cool our bus 90% of the time with a single 13,500 btu roof air. We can heat it down to -28°F with three 1500 watt space heaters. We have a furnace and we have a second roof air if need be but I like the fact that we are so well insulated. If we want big windows all we have to do is open the windshield curtain. Definitely
Understand where you guys are coming from, but really, this isn't about convincing me to keep the 6 Windows. My floor plan doesn't even allow all six to stay, and I have fulltimed enough to know the ridiculous amounts of condensation even dual panes cause, plus the BTU's of heat and cold transfer through large windows. I like windows, and 4 of them is plenty, but six isn't gonna happen. I'll reskin the coach if I have to. This isn't my first rodeo doing this. But you guys do have a point about possibly insulating over the glass on the inside and just leaving the exterior looking as tho it has larger and more Windows. Really the issue is what to do if a window cracks. I need to make sure it is removable from the exterior.
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