Hello All,
We've been in the St. Louis area for the last few weeks and it's been colder than a witch's t...oe for a while. Today it warmed up a bit, and we were planning on moving-on. I started the engine and was surprised that despite a bit of initial hesitation, she actually started up nicely. Anyway, I went back outside to do my initial walk-around, and when I got to the engine bay, I thought the sound from the air compressor was louder and more clackety than usual, but I just ignored it. Usually by the time I've finished my initial walk-around, I can see the bags starting to fill and the coach rise to her proper stature. But not this time. When I got back inside, I noticed the warning light (in place of buzzer) was still flashing and the air gauge read 0.
Figuring that we obviously have an air problem, I went to shut the engine off. But turning the main switch and the key accomplished nothing. The engine just kept humming along. Now in a slight bit of worry, I was concerned because the engine was not shutdownable and whatever the air situation was, it was clearly bad enough that even the piston used to kill the engine was affected. After a couple of minutes, it dawned on me to try and "choke" the engine, using that same piston, manually by hand. I was finally able to pull the piston lever forward enough to accomplish that (and learned something new :D).
In checking on where the air problem might be, I opened the purge valve underneath the air muffler assembly, and it sounded loud (highly pressurized) and there were splatters of water coming from around the valve drain. So there's obviously water in the system.
I really try to make a point of draining the air system when we get somewhere, but clearly I'm not draining it enough.
The main air tank had no pressure at all, and the air gauge still showed 0 pressure.
In addition to that fun, I also noticed that the power steering reservoir was also pressurized and was spitting hydraulic fluid through the fill hole/cap. After we stopped the engine, it continued to remain pressurized for a few seconds longer, but eventually stopped. While I was inside, it felt like the power steering system was still working ok, because I was able to rotate the steering wheel with ease.
One other odd thing I noticed was after I choked the engine, and killed electric to it, I could still hear something "whirring" in the engine (on the right side, I believe). It would spin up, then spin down, then spin up, then spin down. It did that several more times and then eventually stopped.
So that's where we're at.
I can understand the air system issue. Clearly there's water in the line and it froze. Then when the compressor came on, it was just pressurizing the line between it and the freeze point. There's supposed to be a "safety valve" at the front end of the air-muffler. There is, however, no such thing there. It just has a metal plug in that spot. So hopefully there's no long term damage.
I didn't see any blown air lines (other than the one coming out of the drain valve to the ground).
I do NOT, however, understand what happened to the power steering. There should be no water there, and nothing should've frozen. We've not had any power steering issues before, other than a bit of a squeal when it's cold. We have also had an issue with a leak near the front piston assembly, and while annoying it hasn't been more than that. All things I was going to have our mechanic look at. But clearly something is clogged and not allowing the pressurized fluid from flowing.
I removed the power-steering filter/tube-thing and it looked... "normal". It had fluid inside (although it looked a bit frothy).
I'm not sure at all what that other noise was that kept whirring after the engine was shutoff and with the electric off.
When we turn on the electric, normally there is no sound. So even if the electric was still on somehow, there should be no sound with the engine off. And it just stopped, after a few seconds (15-20), on its own. I'm not sure if maybe the air system could be involved with that, and it was somehow bleeding off??
Anyway, we're going to just stay here a few more days and hope to thaw things out soon. Fortunately it's supposed to get warmer in the next few days.
Any thoughts you have on the air problem, the power steering issue, on what these other issues might be, or whatever else are greatly appreciated.
Thanks
George
The thing we used to do with trucks was to put alchol in the air lines.If you can get some in there it will take care of the moisture.
Methyl hydrate otherwise known as gas line antifreeze and air brake antifreeze.
Ryan
is your air dryer working? Do you hear it blouse normally? it could be froze too. Yeah it is always good to know how to shut your engine down manually! been there done that.>>> John.
Hey George, Just this week our air dyer purge valve on the bottom caught open with grit and would not close. We just took the incoming line and out going line lose and connected then together with some 1/2" DOT plastic line and a few compression fittings. our gauge was at "0" also and then up to 120 after we did that. Another place to check would be your compressor governor and unloader valves to make sure they are working on top of your compressor under the incoming air line to the compressor. But probably just iced up line like you were thinking.
If your power steering is frothing then there is air in it and probably just needs bleeding. If you have been sitting for awhile there may have been condensation in the system somewhere that could have frozen also enough to block a valve in it and pressured the line somewhere where it is not able to move along.
Dave
George,
Been there done that, with the air. Your air dryer is frozen. Our AD9 had a heating element in it, that needed to be replaced. Take the dryer apart, get it clean. If you have a good source of heat, warm that sucker up. I have used anything from a big propane heater, to a long flexible tube from the exhaust (when I needed to thaw something in the engine bay). If you don't have any air, my money is on the air dryer.
Good luck,
John
Hmm sorry, Missouri will be a bit warmer tomorrow I heard.
That dryer is probably way up front, and brakes set, and no bag air so while considering all things can one check a relay stud for voltage going to the dryer.
I have had a lot of air govenors freeze also so consider that sometimes.
That exhaust pipe trick John mention might be the hot ticket if able to muster up equipment.
Good luck there
Floyd
A small space heater will provide a suprising amount of heat - if you can keep the wind out. We left one in the engine bay over night and used cardboard to limit the wind - morning temp was 30F. The engine fired right off & heater provided warm air almost instantly.
A hair dryer works too for providing heat, 1500 watts is 1500 watts.
Coach didn't shut down cause it's an air cylinder that moves the shutdown lever. No air; no shut dowb
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Thanks all for the advice,
I'm pretty sure that we don't have a line dryer, at least I don't know where it could be.
From the compressor, the line goes directly into the air muffler, and the. out of that straight into the line running to the wet tank in the "air bay". According to the manual there's an optional "moisture ejector valve" in the air bay, but we have no such animal onboard.
I am curious though, so even with a line dryer, this issue would've happened because I strongly suspect the frozen spot is between the compressor and the wet tank. For some reason I thought a line dryer would be further back in the system, and closer to the compressor.
There is also an optional alcohol evaporator assembly that can be installed and its job is to inject alcohol vapor into the intake side of the compressor. We don't have that either, and I'm not sure how else to inject alcohol (or any antifreeze) into the air system. I'm hesitant to take apart the air intake and expose it to just regular (unfiltered) air.
I'm curious if anyone has a trick to get alcohol into the system some other way.
Dave, thanks for the bit on the power steering. I sure hope you're right. Because for the life of me I can't figure out what the heck is wrong with it. It was clearly compressing the power steering reservoir enough for it to spurt power steering (hydraulic) fluid out the top fill hole (screws in with a rubber gasket). I suppose it's possible the pump flow control is stuck and is pressurizing the system thinking that steering was being actuated. It seems to have worked for a little while, but I didn't test it once I noticed the air issue and the pressurized power steering reservoir, and just focused on shutting the engine down :)
I'm now also thinking since I removed the power steering filter assembly, (to see what was happening) I've definitely introduced air into the system. I suspect some was already in there and is likely responsible for the sqealing we've been getting occasionally. I don't have the ability to jack the front up to bleed the system (as the book instructs) so I'm hoping it'll be functional enough to get us to the mechanic :/
Anyway, it is supposed to be warmer tomorrow. I'm going to fire the engine up again and give everything a look over and see.
Hopefully whatever is blocking the air lines will thaw by then and we'll see what the PS system does as well.
Thanks again,
George
I'm a bit curious where the dryers generally are on a PD 4107 and others in the series.
The dryer I'm wondering about a model on the PD series are they Ad-4 models possibly or a previous one.
Was gandering around early looking at pics in some of the projects area but didn't catch up to a photo yet.
Had wondered a bit does the compressor inlet have the 3" air filter mounted on it style, or have a pipe or hose going to the big air cleaner.
I am hoping for a quick sunrise for you, so firing up the coffee to get it started good luck.
Floyd
GEOM:Most buses {vehicles}with air brakes there should be a connection for feeding air to a disabled vehicle for towing purposes. On my Prevost it is on the passenger side of the engine compartment.You should be able to inject alcohol into this port .
George, don't know where yours is or if you have one. Mine is all the way up front next to the wet tank. The air goes there first and then to the wet tank. If you don't have one then it goes right to the wet tank.
If you have a shop compressor you may have a air fitting up front in your tool bay. Probably is a Schrader valve like a tire valve. If the wet tank is not getting any air then this one will fill your bags and tanks if the blockage is before it. Take awhile but it will fill them up to be able to run stuff that needs air. Don't go to far unless it hold air well and just for emergency repair or to get it off the road.
If you need to pour in Dryer alcohol you can also take the big line at the compressor head off and pour it in there and put it back on. It will go through the system fast.
Dave
Quote from: Dave5Cs on January 24, 2016, 02:08:48 PM... If you need to pour in Dryer alcohol you can also take the big line at the compressor head off and pour it in there and put it back on. It will go through the system fast.
Dave
If you do it this way, be sure that you don't have an air dryer. With most air dryers, if you put alcohol in the system and the alcohol gets blown into the air dryer, it will turn the filtering material to mush and plug up the passages in and after the dryer. Nothing is ever simple, is it???
I was just going to say what he said ^ you'll be sorry if you find out you did indeed have an air dryer!!
Don't sweat the power steering bleed too much. Mine did that too until it self bled all the air out of the line. Then it never did it again. Drove it 1500 miles without issue after that :)
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Nope majority of the time it blows right out the purge valve and desicant is a dryer anyway. Inever had any problems with it until this week and that was 4000 miles ago. A trucker was the one who told us to do it and it worked well and very fast and we had an airdrier.
Dave
I was hesitant on the mention when I ask about air compressor inlet, if small air filter there or hose to big air filter. But I think unless someone put a dryer on it didn't have one from oem.
They kinda started in 70-71 with some new air brake regs. with these new fandangled systems they only optioned dryers mostly, and use the "sniffer" bottle as I was taught to call it.
So any way I would use a cap full in inlet hose slowly or better yet a close connector pushing at the outlet close by possibly.
It sometimes has to run through 40' of trailer to get that system moving, and it doesn't take much really. I think its great and kept it on my truck.
Bendix says use the alcohol after the air drier fwiw,if it's freezing up with a air dryer,then you need to check the heater and the voltage on the dryer they are supposed to come on automatically when the temps drop to freezing.
I never had a air line freeze before I kept my tanks clean and the dryer in good working order the coldest weather was around -25 in WY and Idaho in the 80's the wind chill was -45
Quote from: Dave5Cs on January 25, 2016, 02:50:35 AM
Nope majority of the time it blows right out the purge valve and desicant is a dryer anyway. Inever had any problems with it until this week and that was 4000 miles ago. A trucker was the one who told us to do it and it worked well and very fast and we had an airdrier.
Dave
Like Dave never hdad any ruinations from using it, we used HEET gas tank additive... and sold cases and cases of it too.
drillers bought the most, but in the arctic it was considered a must have for air systems of any kind.
Thanks all again,
Here's the latest update.
We tried to fire her up Sunday morning after temps have been holding above freezing for a while. On initial start attempt, I had my beloved use the ignition while I was back by the engine bay watching. I noticed that she had been cranking for an awfully long time. When I checked in with her by radio, she said she had already released the ignition key, but yet everything was still cranking. Oh crap! Another problem. So in another moment of impromptu analgrabnometrics I remembered that we have a master chassis switch that kills the battery negative terminal. I immediately got to that and it stopped the cranking. :-\
So I continued looking around to see if the starter relay was somehow shorted or wet or ... ??? Nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I had her turn the ignition key on and off several times just in case something there was stuck and all was well there.
So I felt brave enough to turn the chassis switch back on. This time I could hear that whirring sound I mentioned in the first post. Thinking it was the starter I immediately turned off the switch and continued groping around trying to find a short, or exposed cable or anything. I turned the switch back on several more times, and all with the same result, whirring sound. Then on the last attempt it whirred, stopped, then spup up, whirred again, and stopped, one more whir, and then it stopped for good. :-\ ??? ??? :-\
After checking things again, we decided to try starting one more time. This time the instruction was to turn the key for a second and back off. As soon as she turned the key, the starter was turning over the engine, and as soon as she let go, everything stopped (no whirring). Repeat, same result. Repeat again, same. Repeat, cranking a bit longer, same. So we decided to go ahead and complete starting up.
With a bit of hesitation and some smoking, and a burst of zero-start she came to life. But was running pretty rough. We've had it run rough before when it's cold out, initially, so we just left it alone to warm up. Eventually she went through 2 stages of "better". Less smoky, at first, but still anemic and then much less smoky and the usual purr we've always expected. It took probably 5 minutes to get to that point. It's probably good to note that during these rough areas the throttle (in the engine bay not the foot pedal) was unresponsive. Moving the throttle body changed nothing on the idle speed. We'd also had that happen before too, and until she reaches that last stage of "better" the throttle is not responsive. Once she's better, however, moving the throttle lever works fine and she purrs beautifully as usual.
After we were sure the engine was running, I began trying to compress air. So I closed the master purge valve by the muffler and was checking inside for pressure build up. Sure enough, as soon as I closed the valve she could see pressure building inside. Yay, finally something is going right! We watched the pressure gauge like a hawk to make sure the governor was working correctly and not over-pressurizing. In the meantime I went to dump the air tanks. The wet tank was redicilously full of water ??? (So clearly what I was doing wasn't enough). The dry tank had only a tiny amount of water. The tank in the tool area had very little misty water, and the emergency tank in back had none. By this time the bags were filling nicely and the compressor had been cycling on and off perfectly within 120psi.
We conducted the most through air/brake test we could or ever have. While she was inside, I was outside listening to each dd3 and brake chamber engage and disengage as normal. We tested the emergency brake on and off several times, and then retested the brakes. All seemed normal.
Feeling a bit more optimistic, we proceeded to test the power steering. I'd been watching the reservoir to make sure it wasn't spewing anything this time. And it hadn't.
So now we tried to move the wheel. First she tried to turn right and it was crazy difficult, like there was no PS. So I had her turn left, and poof, it worked like a charm. Then I had her center the wheels, still good. Now turn back right, and this time everything was fine :-\
So we tried the PS several more times and it continued to work normally and actually sounded better than it had in a while. It still squealed, just not as loudly.
Feeling more daring now, we decided "screw it" if we're going to go now is as good a time as any. So we prepped the inside for travel in a red-hot-hurry and got on the road. Before hitting the main roads I once again checked the brakes and watched the pressure while moving to make sure nothing had changed. Every thing seemed to work perfectly except when I tried to turn right to take the onramp, the power steering conked out and felt like I was rotating a boulder. Having driven non PS vehicles before it was a bit unexpected but not too shocking. So I continued the turn since I was comitted to it anyway by this point, just with a bit more gusto :). A little throttle to climb the onramp and the PS was back.
I drove it like a nervous hen, hawkishly watching every gauge and monitor and listening for any odd sounds. We drove a couple of hundred miles this way and everything was great. She'd been running perfectly well. We decided not to push it and stopped someplace in IL for the week, rather than push to Nashville and get there at night with dubious weather and road conditions on top of possible engine and PS issues.
So, that in excruciating detail, is the latest. And that's where we're at for now. We'll stay here for a week and then try again on Saturday to make it a few hours further.
This time I completely purged all the tanks and left the valves open. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to do that. But I plan on keeping them open for a day of so, then close them this afternoon or maybe tomorrow.
But now I'm even more confused.
What the heck was the sticking starter all about?
What was that whirring sound? I began thinking that it might be the fuel pump and not the starter after all. Is that possible?
Not sure what the deal was with the PS while I was trying to get on the onramp. Since then, though, it's been working great.
The air thing, I think, is self evident. Clearly my air/water purging procedure needs more work :) From now on, I'm going to just completely dump the tanks. Leaving them full of some air was a holdout from when we used a compressor to keep the bags full, while parked.
If/when we make it to the mechanic I definitely plan on having an air dryer installed and if they're still available, that alcohol injector add-on.
The PS will likely need some work. I suspect the valve responsible for controlling booster cylinder movement/direction is sticking.
Clearly there's also some electrical issue with the starting system. Not sure if freezing cold + humidity caused that. But it's of some note that once we got to our destination, and shutdown, everything worked perfectly normal. She shutdown as usual and there was no spurious sound.
Anyway, thanks all for the advice. A lot of it has helped me at least figure out which end is up and what I should be focusing on looking for.
I'm hoping with the warmer weather next week, it'll be less of an... Adventure.
George
The sticking starter could have been from low voltage.
Be careful with the battery disconnect switch under a load., It can cause a voltage spike and possibly damage some electronics. (I know you were in a panic at the time).
Drain your air tanks in the morning after the air pressure has come down. The fluids will collect near the drain and be quickly expelled. If you have a drain valve that can be left open, That's another option. Leave them open when you first start the engine, and the low pressure will blow out the tank without atomizing the fluids.
Many styles of air driers are available, I wouldn't recommend anything newer than an AD-9. The new driers are REALLY sensitive to air leaks and will likely cause problems on an older vehicle.
I hope better memories of Missouri in your future.
If you decide on some system accessories, just one of the choices is the best and do recommend the actual dryer instead of the alcohol sniffer bottle.
And agree the Bendix ad-9.
Something I found handy and like is a quick drain or pull style, with them having the key ring on it I can use a broom handle with a 1/4 bolt through the end at a ninety, so reaching under with that handle makes a quick drain routine better. The same stick or handle works great on reaching dump truck tarp tie downs that are way up there.
Have a great week
Floyd
I have always used the Bendix DV-2 on my tanks I never had a problem with those.They were standard on a Eagle Bus some heated some not,they would release the moisture every time there was a drop in pressure of 5 pounds I recall.They worked good for me as I didn't always remember to pull the cable on all 5 tanks
I'm pretty sure that an AD9 is likely the best option. For buying it, I'm seeing rebuilt Bendix units and new "Bendix style" units. Any advice there? Should I get a rebuilt actual branded one or one of these "Bendix style" ones that are new?
There was an optional "moisture ejection valve" that was sold an an option on these coaches (which we don't have). I doubt, however, that those were heated and are likely old relics :)
So I love the idea of the DV-2. I've added that to my shopping list.
A block heater is also on the list as well. I assume a block heater, is a block heater, is a block heater?
I still need to know WTH caused the electrical snafus, but that'll be for another warmer day, and a voltmeter.
Interesting point about low voltage possibly causing that. The battery seems strong and usually has no problem cranking that engine multiple times. Although on that day, it did seem to struggle a bit more. We were still able to get 3 or 4 more cranks on it though, before it fired up.
I've been looking at the manual trying to piece the electrical system together in my head.
I wonder if humidity could've shorted something in that electrical panel by the driver?
With that leaky-assed "toll" window right above it (that's been the bane of my existence when it rains) and the humidity condensing up front, is that possible?
I've put some plastic sheeting on the outside of that window to keep water out, but controlling humidity is a tougher nut to crack. I already have a bucket of damp-rid sitting on the floor in the driver's area.
While I don't plan on spending a hullva lot of time in the Midwest in the dead of winter, alas it will be unavoidable and I want to treat this bus/engine as best as I can 8)
I would lean toward a Genuine Bendix.
Check and see what the core charges are. It may be better to pick one up in a heavy truck salvage yard to use as a core.
Since it may not be easily accessed, I would resist the temptation to rebuild the salvage yard one. Plus, by the time you buy all the repair kits and a cartridge, The difference won't be that great.
FWIW I just checked the schematic on the air dryer heater for my MC-5c and it is powered up when the main OTR heater fan is turned on. So if you aren't using the ORT heater the air dryer heater won't work. I use the OTR heater in my bus, but if I didn't I would have to re-wire the power source for the air dryer heater. Just thought I would mention this little quirk.
I have had a solenoid stick on a starter motor. The solenoid does two things, one is kick the pinion out to engage the flywheel and the other is power up the motor itself. This one stuck in such a way that the pinion was not out, but the motor was still turning. I never took it apart to see what happened, since I had a spare starter on board.
Brian
Quote from: bevans6 on January 26, 2016, 03:46:59 AM... I have had a solenoid stick on a starter motor. The solenoid does two things, one is kick the pinion out to engage the flywheel and the other is power up the motor itself. This one stuck in such a way that the pinion was not out, but the motor was still turning. ...
Brian, would the lube on the solenoid pinion be thicker/stickier in very cold weather, making this more likely to happen?
Quote from: Oonrahnjay on January 26, 2016, 03:56:00 AM
Brian, would the lube on the solenoid pinion be thicker/stickier in very cold weather, making this more likely to happen?
^ Great question. I was thinking the same thing. I
think this might be related to our previous starter starting issue during the summer, if so. I was beginning to think that starter problem might be related to the lube sticking and restricting the pinion from kicking out (on start). The reason I think that is how we "fix" it when it happens, is to lightly tap on the starter nose housing (usually once) and it kicks right out and starts. I've never had to tap further back onto the solenoid itself.
So if the lube in that reservoir is suspect as is in warmer weather, it might explain this behavior in cold weather.
Brian, so if I understood the above correctly if the pinion is stuck out, it could keep the circuit for the motor still engaged and trying to turn? So does the solenoid actually pull the pinion back electrically or is it supposed to "spring" back when there is no rotation?
Also, great point about how/when to activate the dryer heat (and probably for the DV-2).
I'll have to come up with a way to activate that that would only be used in the winter.
We don't use the OTR heater. I'm pretty sure it's InOp. The floor was lowered on this coach many years ago and I don't think the coolant lines were replumbed. I haven't tried to open the valves in the engine bay, fearing I'd make a huge mess :) but in looking at the rear bay, it looks like there are cut lines that would've gone to the heater core up front.
In any case, I may just wire it to a switch in the cockpit. I have a couple of spare switch slots up there.
Excellent tip Brian, big thumbs up.
Possibly some means to still use the circuit wires if it is only used by the otr heat. Maybe use the ign to just turn a smaller relay on as the big one and or solenoid was removed probably. I might want to use it in the on mode more often though, like in wiper operations.
Sometimes them starters and their in housing, and case grounds are a pain.
good day
Floyd
Here is what I think happened inside the starter solenoid, emphasis on "think" as in WAG because I didn't take it apart to see what happened. The solenoid does two things. One is it is a big pusher to push the pinion out, against the pressure of a big spring that pulls it back in. The other thing is it pushes a copper disc against two big electrical terminals to complete the high current circuit to turn the starter motor on. What I think happened is the solenoid was energized, the pinion pushed out, the copper disc made the circuit and the engine started, then the solenoid was de-energized, the pinion was pulled back in to disengage but the copper disc stuck to the terminals, basically welded itself or there were worn pits that stuck mechanically. Hence the situation I had with the starter motor spinning merrily but the pinion not engaged and the engine was running. I still had the fuel pressure cut-off working then, so the solenoid could not have gotten turned on by mistake. It ran for around 2 hours like that and finally started to make the voltage meter bounce a bit, which is what I went back to check out (I had just finished replacing an alternator pulley that fell off, so I was totally paranoid about voltage fluctuations). I shut the engine off with the rear switch, the starter motor was eating itself alive, I shut it off with the master disconnect and "repaired" it roadside by hitting it with a big hammer. I had a spare so I got it changed that afternoon, but it worked fine for the two or three starts that I did in the interim.
Edit: there is no lube to speak of inside the solenoid, just a smear of grease, so cold temps would not be an issue. The copper disc sticking is known to be caused by age, pitting, starting with low battery voltage, cranking for long periods, and just plain wearing out after 30 years of starting that big engine. You can take the solenoid apart (on the engine with my bus and starter, probably not on a GM), get that disc out and rotate it so a new section of fresh copper is hitting the terminals, but that ain't a fix, it's a "get home and buy a new starter" bandaid. IMHO, anyway.
Brian
the lower the voltage the higher the amperage the bigger the arc...better to weld with...
What city you close too now? When headed to Nashville? Bob
Quote from: bevans6 on January 26, 2016, 08:02:31 AM
Edit: there is no lube to speak of inside the solenoid, just a smear of grease, so cold temps would not be an issue.
I wonder if different starters have different lube requirements.
According to the maint manual, the starter on this engine has 3 spots that require periodic application of SAE20 oil.
There are 2 areas on the starter diagram labeled as "oil reservoir".
They do look tiny, so they may equate to being just a smear of grease.
The larger looking "reservoir" is in the nose assembly, ahead of the pinion (coincidentally where we've been tapping to get it started when it acts up).
Edit: I also don't quite get what the book is saying, but it sounds like the shift-lever-housing has oil inside that is isolated from the field frame and solenoid by way of O-rings and oil seals.
Quote from: robertglines1 on January 26, 2016, 10:03:30 AM
What city you close too now? When headed to Nashville? Bob
Bob,
We're in Marion, IL at the moment.
We're going to try to head into Nashville on Saturday if all goes well.
It's supposed to be in the 50s on Saturday, so we should be good on the freezing front; and we're hoping the starter/electrical issue is transient enough to not get in the way of us leaving.
Just an FYI, if you know your power steering was burping out fluid, you might want to just check the level and top it off. Just a thought. I know you are working on other things right now, but just want to make sure the power steering did not get ignored :-)
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With a V730 you probably have to much oil,that is what I find on most GM with the V730 people don't replace the original starter with a sealed starter and they fill with oil YMMD