We are ready to wood out the inside of the bus. The curved section of the ceiling is proving to be a challenge. We tried bending 1/4 inch plywood around the curve. We cut relief cuts in the back and all we ended up doing is breaking the plywood. Any thoughts on how to best get around the corners?
Hello, the small conversion company in Coburg Oregon uses bendable plywood. It is specifically made to be bent. There is a retail lumber company in Springfield Oregon that stocks it.
Bandsaw
There is plywood made as 2 way and 4 way to be bendable. But-it is expensive and not necessary. What I did-
After stripping the bus down to the metal, I screwed lengthwise 1x3 fir strips-6 evenly spaced to the width. Where I was going to hang overhead cabinets, I used 1x4 ash double screwed into the roof bows. Then had insulation sprayed in even with the surface of the strips-ultimately 2.25" sprayed insulation. Then screwed 1/8" plywood to the fir strips-since 1/8" plywood bends pretty well. Mind you, I have a transit that has a flatter roof then some buses. Then painted the plywood white, and ran 1.5" finished oak strips also lengthwise to cover up the screws holding the plywood. This also helped in holding the 1/8" plywood. Has held up well for 21 years. Did exactly the same construction on my truck conversion I liked it so much. Good Luck, TomC
You can buy concrete form bendable plywood at masonry supplies it's not that expensive,you buy the radius type for cabinets now that stuff is expensive
I kept all the original curved pieces. After I insulated the bus, I reinstalled these by drilling through them and then using a stainless screw to fasten them to the 3/8" plywood that was installed everywhere else.
You can use a product called "wigglewood", which is a plywood where the grain runs the same direction in all the plys, but it is very expensive.
To make the panels look less original, I sanded them to rough them up and then applied the thickest semi-gloss latex paint I could find(which is actually for outdoors). The joints are yet to be covered by thin wood strips stained to match the cabinets and floors. Because I have LED lights facing up above the windows behind a curtain valance, I am using the white panel to reflect the light for an indirect lighting effect.
Steve Toomey
PAbusnut
We didn't do any relief cuts...just use a floor jack and a 2x4 to jack up the center of the plywood piece until it's tight up against the ceiling and screw it in with self tappers or predrill. Wasn't too bad.
Many different products made that are designed to bend and mold easily to curved ceiling and high wall surfaces. We experimented with the various types and colors of very thin plastic wall board designed for high moisture spaces like marine and shower room applications. Glues into place. Fire resistant. Some types look like wood.
I used 3/4" ply with the relief cuts on the back side on the curves , then used 2 x 3/4 " ply in the middle of the ceiling so the curve of the ceiling was less , then used 3/8 ply to cover it all . used a jack post to hold it up , then used pl premium and self tapping screws to hold it on . this way I got a lot more spray foam in the ceiling for more r value . but it did drop the side edge of the ceiling 3/4" and 1 1/2 " in the centre of the ceiling . was well worth it for the heating , cooling
edit.. 3/4" x 2" strips of ply not full sheets
dave
1/8" plywood is all you need to cover the ceiling. With 1x3 strips under, you can anchor anything you want. 3/4" plywood is just plainly too heavy. Plus all that weight up at the ceiling level will make a difference in handling. I know when I put the three A/C's on the roof (about 350lbs) I could feel the difference in the ride. Good Luck, TomC
Just curious compared to our 9, what does your coach weigh Dave? I haven't weighed the 9 since we outfitted with kitchen cabinets but we were right around 32,500ish
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when we left on our last trip full of fuel 196 gal. 35 gal. of water all our stuff , my wife , my self , 2 dogs
total on the scales 34,579 lbs + pulling my old ranger at 3,561 lbs
dave
Ok. You have the 8v92? Does your bus pull pretty good on the grades?
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Quote from: flynbanjo on December 22, 2015, 01:25:56 PM
We are ready to wood out the inside of the bus. The curved section of the ceiling is proving to be a challenge. We tried bending 1/4 inch plywood around the curve. We cut relief cuts in the back and all we ended up doing is breaking the plywood. Any thoughts on how to best get around the corners?
I went to a woodcraft and ordered 1/8" birch plywood in order to get large enough sheets at this size I had to order door skins. I installed it my 67 Dodge Travco, it was very flexible over the 5' span. (https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi116.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo17%2Fjnorgaard%2F1967%2520Dodge%2520Travco%2Fcabroof_zps4e8bf140.jpg&hash=47d4460b15f7062f061de57a898c412f0812d2c0) (http://s116.photobucket.com/user/jnorgaard/media/1967%20Dodge%20Travco/cabroof_zps4e8bf140.jpg.html)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi116.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo17%2Fjnorgaard%2F1967%2520Dodge%2520Travco%2F3_zps967950ca.jpg&hash=3efdc58ad6091db85e9825143dc96ced77e93293) (http://s116.photobucket.com/user/jnorgaard/media/1967%20Dodge%20Travco/3_zps967950ca.jpg.html)
Best way is with a picture