I just got a new Adco cover for my bus and I love it. It actually fits properly as it is for a 43 foot motorhome, which is the length of my bus. I should have spent the extra for Adco in the first place. The Adco cover has straps instead of needing to tie it down. I think the Adco will last a lot longer because it has like ten straps going underneath and it fits properly so wind isn't getting in an open zipper.
I paid $299 for the first cover and it was for a 42 foot motorhome. I couldn't zip it all the way up because of the length issues. This cover got destroyed in a storm. I then ordered a Cover King cover for $320 and this one also didn't fit properly. This one was destroyed on a windy day because I didn't realize that several of the ropes had worn through and broke.
Brian, This post is no good without pictures. Merry Christmas.
It sure cost a lot more to buy cheap and then finally figure out it is cheaper to buy the right one the first time even though it cost more. I try to remember this but guess what I am so hard headed I will still forget and buy cheap then expensive.
One day I may learn
It turns out that this Adco cover is a complete hunk of junk. It has holes all over the place where it is rubbing against things on the bus. Previous covers didn't wear through from the same things. One of the seams on the side has come apart too. I have no idea what to do next. I don't know if spending $600 for the most expensive Adco cover would get me a better product or not.
The best option would be building a permanent structure for the bus to be stored under, but FEMA redrew the flood maps for our area last year and now all of the previously buildable land on my lot is in a flood zone and I can't build anything in a flood zone.
Why do you need a cover? Buses are built to be outside.
JC
what about a carport style with sun screens on the side
In my old career and even more now, though in a bit different way I try to see when personnel would be around to monitor covers on equipment.
This sometimes can help estimate a need, and heck its tough covering construction and marine so trying to figure some of this can be a tough nut.
Some items on equipment will need different and more material for sure, surprising how some corners are tough to deal with. Then there is the wind always tough from a particular side.
hope that helps cool things
Floyd
Quote from: lostagain on July 07, 2016, 07:37:20 PM
Why do you need a cover? Buses are built to be outside.
Because the roof leaks. I have tried just about everything within reason to stop the leaks. The bus leaks at the seam between the rear fiberglass cap and the aluminum roof for sure. I have caulked it so many times I have lost count. The caulk eventually cracks and starts leaking. I have tried cheap caulk and stuff that cost $20 or $30 a tube. The fiberglass and aluminum do not expand/contract at the same rate.
I hate having to cover the bus because it limits using the bus or even doing any work on the bus. It is a total pain to remove and put on any of the RV covers by yourself. I live alone so I have nobody to help me.
For your leak at the cap i would remove all traces of silicone and use eternabond. Also known as stick-n-bond. Will stick to anything but silicone, and works very well. I have used it many times on end caps on stick and staple units with good results.
On my bus, the only place on the entire bus where there are rivets (as well as adhesive) is the joint between the fibreglass caps and the aluminium roof panels. As well as the fibreglass-aluminium panels themselves overlapping, the joints are also covered with quite a heavy (maybe 4mm thick) aluminium strip on top, which is riveted-down maybe every 150mm or so into the steel frame below.
Got to be significant that they went to that amount of trouble on those particular joints when every other join on the body is just stuck together with adhesive.
Jeremy
Quote from: thomasinnv on July 07, 2016, 08:29:26 PM
For your leak at the cap i would remove all traces of silicone and use eternabond. Also known as stick-n-bond. Will stick to anything but silicone, and works very well. I have used it many times on end caps on stick and staple units with good results.
I don't think I've ever used a silicone caulk on this. I actually have a roll or 4" or 6" Eternabond that I bought in large part to put on this crack, but never did.
I know I have a few other leaks I need to fix which is why I just cover the bus. Some day I need to fiberglass the big hatch in the rear closed, but it has to be done when it is over 65 degrees at night so the polyester resin cures properly.
It looks like Adco is going to replace the cover due to the seam coming apart. I still need to deal with the roof leaks so I don't have to worry about a cover.
Brian: FYI There are 2 Adco covers that I'm aware of. 1 is for summer only, not MN weather and a 2nd winter version. Glad to hear they are going to replace your cover since it fits, but if you continue to tie it by the underneath straps, you will just rip it out again. Think of it as a 43ft bag of wind/boat sail (when the wind blows) The amount of stress on everything is tremendous. I tried regular 350ftlb nylon rope, broke it, then super expensive 1000ftlb sailing rope, broke it, then 1 " 1500ftlb cargo strap, didn't break it, but ripped a seam out. THEN I FIGURED IT OUT. I took 2"x27' cargo straps over the roof from bottom edge to bottom edge and divided my 40' bag of air into 5 - 8ft bags of air. HUGE DIFFERENCE. I still use a couple of nylon ropes (3) underneath to keep it tight to the body, but there's no huge stress anymore. Menards has them now for a little over $7 ea. Buy 5 and divide yours into 6 short bags. I also got some thick flexible rubber (3"x5"x3/16") to line the cargo hooks with to protect the cover material from the metal edges of the bus. I've had no issues with my Cover King since I changed my way of baggin' it. This won't help your leaking issue, but should stop you from shredding another expensive cover. I put this on and take off completely by myself. Attached photos Good luck Gerry H
The problem I had with my Cover King was my own fault. Some of the ropes going underneath had snapped and I was lazy and didn't replace them in time. I had ropes wrapped all the way up and over the bus. I think it was your suggestion.
I can get the cover on and off by myself, but it is a huge chore. The wind has to be almost perfectly calm to put on or remove the cover by yourself or it turns into a sail.
With all the problems of tying down the cover and the wind flapping the cover, I have to wonder if the paint on the coach is being chafed or even worn through to primer. If that is the case, it might be better to not cover, or build a garage for it.
I understand the problem that the local authority will not let you build on a flood plain. I have seen people getting around building restrictions by building tent structures that appear to be exempt from various codes. They even are made with I-beam construction and called permanent tent structures.
For a temporary building, consider a bow-type greenhouse made with galvanized pipe, covered with plastic. I use one that I bought used from a closing garden center that is 66' long and 20' wide. Very wind resistant, and if you use greenhouse plastic, it will last 4-8 years. I put a layer of shade cloth on first, then clear or white plastic.
Brian
Find a company that does spray on bed liners. Talk to them about doing your roof. IF and please note that is in CAPS you find a good company they can do your roof so it won't leak. Then you can stop with the covers and trying to find a way to build where you can't build. I hope this helps.
Melbo
I had a small leak at my fiberglass and aluminum cap junction so I just went on the roof on a hot day and pressed down some peel n seal from lowes. Awesome stuff. Killed my leaks
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Don't know how long it will last but Flexseal will dang sure plug up a leak .According to their hype,it is supposed to last for years.
Unfortunately, the spray-on bedliner for a roof is $3,000 minimum. I have checked into it previously. There is a company that does just RV roofs with a bedliner type material, but they are $5,000 plus travel costs.
My long term plan was to build a garage for my bus, but that will probably never happen now. I would probably have to move again to build a garage for my bus. I wasn't aware that the property I bought was on the edge of a flood zone. There are no lakes, rivers, or streams even close so I never looked into flood zones. There is a nature area nearby that is full of wetlands and apparently those wetlands are at risk of flooding. I am on the very edge of the flood zone so I doubt I would ever get any damage. My house is outside the flood zone.
You can ask FEMA to remove existing structures from the flood zone, but I don't know that you can get permission to build in a flood zone.
There is no federal law denying you the ability to build a bus port in a flood zone, are you sure it's not a floodway?
Quote from: niles500 on July 10, 2016, 03:47:48 PM
There is no federal law denying you the ability to build a bus port in a flood zone, are you sure it's not a floodway?
It may simply be a local rule that nothing can be built in a flood zone. I have not pursued the matter beyond city hall since I don't have the money saved to build yet anyhow. The 40x50 I wanted to build was quoted at $55,000 by three different places. I'm thinking about just doing half as wide and a little longer to save money, but it will still be $30,000.
Flex seal now comes in a can so you can paint it on. Also Pep Boys sell Herculiner which seems to work well. I used it to coat the whole inside of my house battery box with satisfying results.
Quote from: chessie4905 on July 10, 2016, 06:07:16 PMPep Boys sell Herculiner which seems to work well. I used it to coat the whole inside of my house battery box with satisfying results.
That's a good thing to know, Chessie - thanks!