I am trying to figure out how to tell where my fuel solenoid is on my bus. I have 2 2 way switches in my engine bay that have to be on to start the bus. If I only turn one on the starter will only click. Any ideas why? My bus will only start from the front switch if the rear switches are also on, but the run switch will not turn the bus off. I am not sure where the front run/stop button wires should run to so that I can stop the bus from the front? Can I simply install a key switch to start and stop my bus? If so why do you all have the switches instead of a key? Anyways back to the fuel solenoid how can I locate it on my bus? Is there a book for the wiring on our buses that you guys used when you built yours, so I can learn about all the different wiring and how it works? My bus has to me complicated wiring, for example it is a 12 volt system, but has a 24 volt inverter that has it's own battery bank that is wired through solenoids to power the inverter, which I don't understand? Ok I'm sorry for rambling and jumping from one question to another ::) Any help and or direction would be greatly appreciated.
it's right on top. and its not a solenoid it's an actuator. its the little cylinder that pushes the fuel cutoff lever.
Right on top of what? Can you post a picture?
Quote from: harleyman_1000 on November 05, 2015, 12:40:01 AM
Right on top of what? Can you post a picture?
what are you calling a "fuel solenoid".... there really isn't such a thing...
shut down actuator... slave...
skinner valve....
high idle ...
Hayley man,
Do you have a operators or service manual for your bus? I can't see signatures in tapatalk so I don't know if you identified what bus and engine you have or not.
Eric
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Quote from: daddyoften on November 05, 2015, 07:25:43 AM
Hayley man,
Do you have a operators or service manual for your bus? I can't see signatures in tapatalk so I don't know if you identified what bus and engine you have or not.
Eric
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
1958 GM 4104 Extended 2 feet, with a 6v92 and 5 speed automatic
http://s783.photobucket.com/user/harleyman_1000/library/Gm4104%20bus?sort=3&page=1 (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/harleyman_1000/library/Gm4104%20bus?sort=3&page=1)
Scott, if you trying to do away with original rotary just buy a universal key switch with a start position ,wire the starter relay to S terminal the hot feed wire to the + then the rest of the wires go on the I terminal on the switch.
Is the rotary switch bad sounds to me like it is a bad toggle switch on the rear panel.It would be nice to have a photo to see which shutdown system you have the electric solenoid type,the air skinner valve with the air cylinder type or the electric over air all in one type
Quote from: luvrbus on November 05, 2015, 08:48:50 AM
Scott, if you trying to do away with original rotary just buy a universal key switch with a start position ,wire the starter relay to S terminal the hot feed wire to the + then the rest of the wires go on the I terminal on the switch.
Is the rotary switch bad sounds to me like it is a bad toggle switch on the rear panel.It would be nice to have a photo to see which shutdown system you have the electric solenoid type,the air skinner valve with the air cylinder type or the electric over air all in one type
most of these pieces will be found on top of the governor housing... with wires and/or air tubes/hoses coming from them...
I just want to be able to start and turn my bus off from the front. Currently I have 2 2 way switches, and they both have to be on to start the bus from both the front and the back. Can I install a key switch in front and also have the start switch in the back? Sorry but 12 volt wiring is not my thing. I can wire a whole house but don't understand this 12 volt stuff.
I will post some pictures tomorrow
My coach will start from the seat or the rear....but, I very seldom start it from the seat. I rather be back there looking things over every time I start it...JMW .... YMMV etc...
btw. the bus cut off only works with air. on my buses anyway. no air , no cut off. and the master switch and rear switch are supposed to be on and set for rear or front start. The bus should shut off if you turn off either front or rear run switch. They did that so later when you convert it, your grand daughter cant start it from the front while your working in the back.
Clifford -
No rotary switch on a 4104, that's on the 4106s and transits.
Scott -
Do you still have the stock 4104 dashboard?
Do you have a multi-meter with a tone generator? If so, time to dig it out and start tracing wire circuits.
I don't have an '04 wiring schematic here at the house, but IIRC, with the OEM dash, when you flip on the upper left run/stop switch, it becomes "live" only if the engine compartment switch for front/rear start is in the "front" position. Once the dash switch is "live", then there's power to the momentary "start" switch.
FWIW & HTH. . .
;)
RJ remember this bus was the one that the early owner of bus conversions mag had.
It had some bad rigs the time I saw it at Daytona bike week quite a few years ago.
uncle ned
There is always that.
sounds like you need 4 pictures.
1, your dash
2. your governor area
3. your rear start select switch
4. your skinner valves.
Quote from: uncle ned on November 05, 2015, 03:11:06 PM
RJ remember this bus was the one that the early owner of bus conversions mag had.
It had some bad rigs the time I saw it at Daytona bike week quite a few years ago.
uncle ned
Bad rigs?
Here are some pictures
looks like they bypassed your low oil shut down. that is also hooked to the shutdown actuator. its controlled by a relay if the switch is bypassed it may not let the shutdown work. hope you can read a wiring diagram. need a better second pic. more of the area of the first one. we already have fuzzy vision. thanks
Quote from: jackhanow on November 08, 2015, 05:16:17 PMlooks like they bypassed your low oil shut down. that is also hooked to the shutdown actuator. its controlled by a relay if the switch is bypassed it may not let the shutdown work. hope you can read a wiring diagram. need a better second pic. more of the area of the first one. we already have fuzzy vision. thanks
Sorry about the thread drift ... but it seems to me that having "low oil", "low coolant" and "overheat" shutdowns WORKING is a good idea. Am I right about that? If someone is afraid that they'll be suddenly shut down in the middle of road and they've disabled the shutdown, is a bright warning light and loud horn a good idea? (Actually, I'm in the middle of rewiring my bus and I'm going to have both.)