I've run into a few engine issues (a chain of events) that I'd like to get your thoughts on.
Issue 1: Starting. We were preparing to leave. It was a cold morning (~42) and we went through the usual cold startup routine. Turn the engine over for several seconds (15-20), about three times. To which it putters but refuses to start. Then on the 4th start attempt, give it a quick burst of zero start. Engine lit right up but was running pretty sluggish. Let it sit for about 30 seconds and eventually it did the one last puff of smoke but ran... smoother. But it still wasn't running as smooth as I usually remembered. So I got out and went to the back to check it out. Within a few seconds of my being there I heard a metallic... slap? Click? It sounded like it might've been from under the lower valve cover, but I'm not certain of that. It only did it the one time, it was extremely brief, but as soon as that happened, everything was a smooth as I remembered it running. I thought it was odd, but there was no indication anything else was wrong and everything sounded perfectly normal.
Issue 2: We drove about 300 miles that day. We stopped once for lunch for about an hour. Everything was normal. The engine was running at ideal temps, the pressure looked good and the trans temp was essentially negligible.
Just west of Des Moines, about 10 minutes from our stop for the night, I noticed a... wobble from the back. I couldn't tell what it was, and thought I was driving over uneven pavement. Not pothole type bumpy, but fast wobbly if that makes sense. I ignored it at first thinking that it might've been the pavement. Then I noticed it return again. And again. Both additional times it happened as I was trying to accelerate above a certain speed (~53MPH). We were near our exit anyway and I had no time to investigate, so I slowed down and took our exit. At the light nothing sounded out of place. Engine was smooth and nothing was wobbling. Temps, pressure, etc looked good. Engine sounded as it always does.
Accelerated from the light, hit 55 MPH and no wobble. Everything seemed fine. I was not able to go faster than 55, so not sure if it would still do it again above 55. But everything again seemed normal. We got to our spot and parked and setup as usual. It was dark, and cold, so I just left it as is.
Issue 3: Got up this morning and did my usual walk-around and to try and look back there to see if I could find anything out of place. Everything looked normal. I didn't see anything lose, or broken/cracked. I did, however, notice a pool of what looked like coolant. It was a very tiny amount of coolant, but it pooled into a spot about 8 inches wide on the ground. After spending about 30 minutes trying to figure out where it was coming from (there was no clear indication of a constant drip or large amount of fluid anywhere) I finally found what I believe is the cause. It looks like the hose piece (attached with 2 hose clamps) that goes from the radiator line (big ~3" diameter metal pipe) back to the engine has developed a leak around the bottom of the hose piece. It's a fairly minor drip (maybe a drop every 15-30 seconds), but definitely noticeable. It seems pretty tightly attached (I didn't want to mess with it too much) but jiggling the hose piece seems to make it slightly worse, and nothing makes it stop. The piece of hose doesn't look particularly worn, at least from the angle I can see and it feels like it's on the metal pipe (radiator side) pretty snugly. But there is a little dip/bow in the hose-piece on the bottom, like what happens when you squeeze a rubber hose unevenly. And the coolant is dropping from the bowed out part.
So that's over the span of about 12 hours. I'd like to get your thoughts on what the causes might be for issue 1 and issue 2.
Issue 1, if I'm guessing, it might've been a stuck valve or rod, or something similar, but I'm not sure.
Issue 2, couldn't be sure, but maybe the transmission couldn't decide on a gear? Would it oscillate like that?
Issue 3, I could probably replace that hose piece myself, but I'm concerned by how much coolant will leak out if I remove that hose clamp. Also the connection between the return line and engine is pretty tight. There doesn't seem to be a lot of (or any) movement in between there. The metal pipe to the rad is pretty solid and obviously the engine block won't budge. Would I be able to squeeze in a new hose piece? Is there a special trick to do so? What kind of hose and size (diameter) should I be looking for?
Is it safe to drive it? I'm concerned that if that piece gives out completely, I'm basically hosed since that will certainly starve the engine of coolant.
We're fine where we're at the moment and this is not a pressing issue right now, but we had planned on heading back to KC next week. We can certainly take a detour to a mechanic if someone knows of a good DD mechanic near Des Moines (I really don't have one in KC either for that matter). We're at a state park and I don't know how keen they're going to be on me screwing around with bucket-fulls of coolant; but what must be, must be.
Your thoughts and help on this are appreciated as always.
Thanks
George
I spent a good deal of time trying to figure out a heating problem on my 8v92 and luckily found a simple solution----the impeller on the water pump was loose. Getting to that solution required several sessions of draining the coolant. Be ready to accept about 15 gallons or so of coolant if you disturb the hose you mentioned. As you describe it, the leak doesn't sound too serious but I'd recommend that a qualified DD mechanic do the fix. Jack
If it is on the top you lose hardly any antifreeze on a GM
Closely inspect the leak area to be sure that the leak is not coming from further up and not just runnung down to the drip point. Does the engine have jake brakes?
Hey George, #1 might be or have been a stuck injector especially if in cold country. Sounds like it unstuck its own dam self.
#2 check your wheel or lug nuts. Might be some missing or coming loose. Had it happen and just retorqued them all and problem stopped.
#3 yep kids small blowup pool under engine drain what you need to just below the leak. Get some gates green strip hose and new spring clamps whatever size it is at truck place.. It may not be bad now but could be soon.:'(
Dave
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
The small 9 gals mortar mixing from HD for 6 bucks is the handiest thing a bus owner can buy IMO
George
My name is Brian from American Fleet Inc in Springfield MO.We are a Detroit Diesel engine facility that specializes in bus engine re-manufacturing, as well as engine repairs. We only work on buses, so if that gives you a little confidence I hope that helps.
Thanks
Brian Stanton
Sales Manager
American Fleet Inc
417.865.4420
www.americanfleetinc.com (http://www.americanfleetinc.com)
Quote from: luvrbus on November 02, 2015, 05:04:42 AM
The small 9 gals mortar mixing from HD for 6 bucks is the handiest thing a bus owner can buy IMO
Why ? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???
Why ?
Thanks all for the info.
Here's the latest, well I went back out there to measure the diameter so I can have some new hose ordered from orielly's and I guess I must be blind. It's not the one on top, but the one on bottom (coming from bottom of rad back to block) that's leaking. I suspect that one is quite a bit more involved, with I'm sure copious amounts of coolant.
So I decided to see just what condition the hose was in. The front of it didn't look that bad, but I could not see the back. I got my phone out and took a video of the back of the hose to get a better look. It looks like it's in pretty good condition as well. I got out a 4" hose clamp that I had with me and tightened it next to the existing clamp, as a back-brace. That actually stopped the leak, which gave me the confidence to loosen the original and rotate and move it a bit to see if it could get a better grip and retightened it.
So far it appears to be holding and the leak has stopped. I left both hose clamps on there.
I'm not sure I'd be able to get a new piece of hose back on there, let alone remove the current piece. There is zero play between the rad return pipe and the block. I felt around the hose and there's maybe an inch gap at most. So I'm not sure how the current hose is on there, but I think it was put on at the same time the rad was. So I'm pretty sure I'll need a mechanic to finish this.
We'll see if this hose clamp movement gets it to the point where I can drive it to a mechanic.
I suspect that whatever caused the wobble (assuming it's not tires as Dave suggested) might've worked that connection slightly loose?
Anyway, I've got to find someone I can bring her to, to have that and a couple of other things looked at. So my search for a good/reliable/trustworthy/etc mechanic continues :D
If anyone knows of a good place, close to Des Moines, I'd appreciate the info.
Brian, thanks for your info. Are you guys pretty much an engine shop, or do you do general bus work like brakes, suspension, lube, etc work?
Quote from: eagle19952 on November 02, 2015, 08:48:29 AM
Why ? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???
Why ?
It is just handy it is only 6" deep x 27" long x 18" wide you can toss in the bay and fill it with stuff till you need to use again beats the hell out of bucket that cost you 6 bucks.I have a couple of the 21 gal size it's on 7" deep fits perfect under a old 2 stroke oil never reaches my floor
I use a blue plastic 55 gallon drum bottom for my antifreeze and or oil drain. Easily cut to height for your particular coach.
Quote from: luvrbus on November 02, 2015, 11:02:54 AM
It is just handy it is only 6" deep x 27" long x 18" wide you can toss in the bay and fill it with stuff till you need to use again beats the hell out of bucket that cost you 6 bucks.I have a couple of the 21 gal size it's on 7" deep fits perfect under a old 2 stroke oil never reaches my floor
;D ok i'm chuckling now... i read your post and my one working brain cell saw a bag of readymix...enuff for one posthole ... lol ;D :o ;D ;D
i have a few tubs myself, and a bundle of oil absorbents that i bought 10 years ago...used about 1/2 so far.
Are you kidding me 15 gal in as tube! How are you suppose to get it back in the system, I use 4 5 gal pails, easy to siphon or pour back in system.
Quote from: Bob Gilbert on November 02, 2015, 03:25:26 PM
Are you kidding me 15 gal in as tube! How are you suppose to get it back in the system, I use 4 5 gal pails, easy to siphon or pour back in system.
if it's antifreeze/coolant... i use a pump. (https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthumbs.ebaystatic.com%2Fd%2Fl200%2Fpict%2F171899883278_1.jpg&hash=36f0f5558254befbfcda5dfeebbc5c46a019af41)
Quote from: Bob Gilbert on November 02, 2015, 03:25:26 PM
Are you kidding me 15 gal in as tube! How are you suppose to get it back in the system, I use 4 5 gal pails, easy to siphon or pour back in system.
Tube ? it's pan or tub I just use my electric FLO/Jet pump to refill the cooling system from the pan and don't even need a ladder Bob ;D fwiw I use a old DD gear fuel with a drill to pump oil into the cans for recycling it takes me about 5 minutes to fill 2-5gal cans
Took me a few minutes to figure it out also and i've got 3 or 4 laying around :-\
George
I'm glad you were able to trouble shoot your issue and save a few bucks! American Fleet is pretty much a engine shop. But with that said, if a bus was here for engine work and there were other items that needed to be addressed, we could handle that as well. If we put ourselves out there as a facility that will do anything on a bus just for the sake of getting our hands on a bus, its takes our focus away from doing what we do best, which is reman engines. Make sense? :)