I know this has been covered a thousand times. But, somethings are worth revisiting.
I'm considering pulling a trailer. Fully loaded between 6000 - 8000 lbs. What things do I need to consider?
Also, do weight distribution hitches help with a bus hookup?
Thanks,
Dave
Good question Dave! I have been pondering this as well.
We have a KIA sorento and would like to keep it but it seems this vehicle can not be towed at all and has to go on a trailer.
The problem I see with pulling a trailer is we will always have to find pull thru sites or park the trailer and car in an overflow area, which I am not to keen about and then hooking the darn thing up when we leave. And I am sure it will dig into the gas mileage....please correct me if I am wrong.
It sure does seem like allot of work, but then again, you can't have everything. At this point we have to decide between a trailer and keep existing auto or purchase a jeep we can flat tow........
Mike
I currently flat-tow and prefer that, but I'm going to need the trailer for business (the car will go on the trailer too).
Since it's business I can justify the inconvenience of unhooking, or pull-through sites.
And there are a thousand answers, one or more per person... ;D
I have an MC-5C. I have a 20 foot box trailer (25 feet ball to bumper) trailer that loaded is between 6000 and 8000 lbs. I also have a car that, on it's dolly, is around 3500 lbs. I have a hitch that I got here: http://www.busrvparts.com/Towing%20Hitches.htm I rarely, OK never, take the bus on a trip without one or the other towed behind me. I use a dead weight hitch for the dolly and a equalizing hitch for the trailer. The point of the equalizing hitch with the bus is not to restore ride height or to transfer weight, it's to remove the twisting torque on the hitch and mounting points that you get from the tongue weight. I use a Prodigy brake controller for the electric brakes.
So from a guy who's been there, done that, did the math and is satisfied with the engineering, I do indeed tow a trailer. Yes, the engine subframe might crack. Mine is fine. Part of my thought process was the significant weight reduction on the same frame that supports the trailer hitch from the removal of the ac compressor, the substitution of a muffler that weighs 100 lbs less than stock, the seats and passengers that aren't in the bus over the engine bay, and the lack of the factory lavatory with it's weight. That all probably adds up to the tongue weight of the trailer.
Brian
good timing !
I am planing to pull a 16' beaver tail aluminum car trailer ( aprox. 1500 lbs ) + a 2015 colorado at 3900 lbs so total pull weight of aprox. 5400 lbs . I have not tried the set up yet but other then the extra weight of the trailer I think the drag will be less with the trailer , truck then with my old flat tow ranger that was 3600 lbs . + the trailer has 2 axles both with brakes , + now I will be able to back the trailer up if needed .
so has any one done this and am I right about the less drag because of the trailer ?
thanks dave
We have a MCI 7 with a 8-V92 and 740 Allison trans we pull a 24 foot box trailer with a Honda Trike and a Jeep Rubicon in it. Have towed it probably 10000 miles or more and have never had a problem. The trailer is a 3 axel with breaks on all wheels. What is nice when we get to some where we unload the jeep and use it to put the trailer where we want it if we are going to be there a few days and then we have a garage for the trike. Don't have to worry about the trike in the open as it is in the portable garage.
Works for us
ED & Janet
I have a 74 MC 8 with a 8v71n and Allison 740. I pulled a car on a dolly a couple of Jeeps 4 down a pop up camper and now I pull a 20 foot enclosed trailer. It can be a little tight getting around sometimes but I really enjoy having the extra space. I haven't put the car in the trailer yet but have pulled with the motorcycles in it. I have put air-conditioning a bathroom with a small sink a refrigerator and fold down bunks off the sides and a queen size off the rear door. That gives me sleeping for 6 more. As far as aerodynamics it's a 102 wide between 65 and 70 miles per hour I can't feel it but I can see it buffer in the draft.
Dave -
IMHO, one of these is cheap insurance that you won't end up with coach chassis issues from the instantaneous dynamic loads placed on the hitch from the trailer bouncing up and down on the super slab:
www.trailertoad.com (http://www.trailertoad.com)
Not needed if you're flat towing, btw.
FWIW & HTH. . .
;)
I have 2 factory installed 10,000# hitches from MCI's they were removed because they would drag coming out of the barn in Laughlin.
I think they came off the A models maybe the C's not for sure but they are MCI hitches,I plan on using 1 on the DL
Hey clifford is that the kind that bolt on at the bumper mounts? Will that bolt up to my mc8? If so can I buy it from you?
^ curious too
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It goes behind the bumper the best I can tell it has wedge shape plate on each end with 5 bolts and 1 bolt in the center for the bumper mount bolt it doesn't look to me like it ties into the engine cradle unless it is missing some parts
For what its worth, I've pulled a Ford Mustang thousands of miles on a dolly and I've pulled the Harley on a 10 foot Aluminum utility trailer. So I've never put any significant tongue weight on my MC-5. Both times I've pulled the engine, the point where the left hand sub frame attaches to the square vertical tube was cracked. First time, we plated over the entire area and welded the sub frame to that and it still cracked. Not sure what is going on there but I'd be hesitant to put any tongue weight on an MC-5.
Fred
Hey clifford do you wanna sell one of those? Are you guys at home I been wanting to come by and visit with you anyway.
It sounds just like my hitch pictured in the link in around post 4, up there somewhere. With mine you have to cut off 1" of the lower lip of the bumper, so it sounds like it has been raised a bit compared to the factory job.
Brian
Any more thoughts on a weight distribution hitch?
Brian,
I just looked at that hitch that you have. It looks real nice as far as being easy to attach to the cradle. But I am really surprised to see that it does not reach up towards the front and attach up ahead of the engine also.
On your '5 can you inspect the area up by the alternator where the cradle attaches to the vertical 4" square tube? That's where mine cracks.
Fred
Not sure I know where you mean. You mean by the stock 50DN alternator, which is hung off the engine cradle at the rear of the engine (towards the front of the bus)? What I am now thinking of is my 1980 MC-5C probably used the whole rear framework from the MC-9, and it's mostly stainless steel. There are only a couple of little mild steel tubes in back there. I can imagine a whole lot of small improvements in the frame from when your MC-5A was made. I wonder what the weight difference between an 6V-71/Spicer or a 8V-71 Spicer and a 8V-92/Allison 740 would be. I would think a fair bit, and the MC-9 was engineered for that heavier engine package. Maybe that makes a difference, I don't know.
Brian
Fredward, Mine was cracked at the bulkhead also. I assume that is what you mean. Hears a pic of mine with the engine cradle off.
Dave my 102A3 has a crack on the support for the engine cradle. I would give your engine structure a good once over before adding the trailer. I have been wrestling with whether I want to tow a trailer or just flat tow a vehicle behind, I have been leaning toward flat towing a vehicle. I spoke with a couple a while back, and they told me they went and purchased a car trailer to tow behind their coach and they decided to give it. The reason was that it limited the places they could go, they would have to leave the trailer outside of most parks and find a place to leave it. Just a few thoughts you may want to consider. I thought it would be nice to have one to keep a vehicle, golf car and possible a laundry as well, I am just concerned that will be too much weight.
Tom,
Yes that looks similar (but different). Probably the same difference though. It might have gone a long time, but it is concerning that the second time I had the engine out the entire repair we did first time had a crack in it as well. So I'm not going to put anything more than the light weight aluminum trailer with minimal hitch weight behind our bus. Too bad because I have a nice 18' flatbed and an enclosed 16' too. But afraid to hook them up.
Fred
Just a thought. it could be that with a tag axle, the rear of the MCIs are stronger, just for the tag and that may make a difference. I have an mc5 and an A2. I have a dolly with inertia brakes and a tow a little tacoma and sometimes my dodge b3500 church bus. Ive seen guys pull some heavy trailers, 15k plus and claim no problem, but my guess is they never look.
Quote from: Tikvah on October 22, 2015, 10:38:43 AM
Any more thoughts on a weight distribution hitch?
Yes:
http://trailertoad.com/id79.html (http://trailertoad.com/id79.html)
Much cheaper than repairing a broken cradle.
FWIW & HTH. . .
;)
QuoteAny more thoughts on a weight distribution hitch?
Yes:
http://trailertoad.com/id79.html (http://trailertoad.com/id79.html)
Much cheaper than repairing a broken cradle.
FWIW & HTH. . .
That rather eliminates the ability to back up.
I think some of my question has been answered. First, I already flat tow. But I need a trailer for business, that will also include my toad. But the trailer won't have much more weight than the aluminum trailer and my toad anyway.
I see the frame cracks, and I'm sure I have some too. But, I doubt the risk is very high. Stainless tends to crack often but it appears to maintain some strength.
The topic seems to be a lot like my mini-split topic. Lots of folks said it couldn't be done or shouldn't be done. But a few of us are doing it and loving it.
I appreciate the feedback. and I'll be getting my frame closely inspected and maybe reinforced.
But, I don't think my main question was answered..... would a wight distribution hitch be of any value?
Dave
From my first reply...
"I have an MC-5C. I have a 20 foot box trailer (25 feet ball to bumper) trailer that loaded is between 6000 and 8000 lbs. I also have a car that, on it's dolly, is around 3500 lbs. I have a hitch that I got here: http://www.busrvparts.com/Towing%20Hitches.htm (http://www.busrvparts.com/Towing%20Hitches.htm) I rarely, OK never, take the bus on a trip without one or the other towed behind me. I use a dead weight hitch for the dolly and a equalizing hitch for the trailer. The point of the equalizing hitch with the bus is not to restore ride height or to transfer weight, it's to remove the twisting torque on the hitch and mounting points that you get from the tongue weight. I use a Prodigy brake controller for the electric brakes."
Yes, a WD hitch has value in this application. I would not tow my trailer without one.
Brian