I'm seriously considering getting a Wabasto system for my '86 MC9. I have a bunch of questions I'd like to ask face to face with a dealer, however the closest dealer is 196 miles away!
My first question for those who know, which model would you suggest? I need to pre heat the engine and also warm the cabin. Can the coolant lines be run and tied into the front heater core so the driver heat and defrosters still work?
Also, how would I disperse the heat into the rest of the interior, baseboard heaters, forced air or what. Can the main heater core be removed or is this still the best way to get cabin heat with a smaller fan to move the air? Don't want to do the in floor radiant heat because of the head room issue, I'm 6'5".
Any thoughts or input would be helpful.
Bruce
I'm 6'3" and can barely clear in a 9. I bought a transit since it has 6'10" headroom. I know the 102C3 also does. Good Luck, TomC
Quote from: PRZNBUS on October 11, 2015, 05:29:57 AM
I'm seriously considering getting a Wabasto system for my '86 MC9. I have a bunch of questions I'd like to ask face to face with a dealer, however the closest dealer is 196 miles away!
My first question for those who know, which model would you suggest? I need to pre heat the engine and also warm the cabin. Can the coolant lines be run and tied into the front heater core so the driver heat and defrosters still work?
Also, how would I disperse the heat into the rest of the interior, baseboard heaters, forced air or what. Can the main heater core be removed or is this still the best way to get cabin heat with a smaller fan to move the air? Don't want to do the in floor radiant heat because of the head room issue, I'm 6'5".
Any thoughts or input would be helpful.
Bruce
The go to model is generally the DBW2010. You can tie into the front heater core. I have 5 radiators with fans in my bus.
Here's a pic with 3 of them. There is a smaller driver heater and then the two cores for the defrost/heater in the dash area.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jVEYQFqLKWs1pByA2FVitZrqcq--510RLMQTsuInA0LTVdpvuZ1RP03Y7PUgYqpBvo24wW2xXdb6o81yMLnKlqRh2mn1GJpWmMexWjBaq0nXJwnn60JF5c0fuj6f-sEfLQ-4m0BPdRzQclPOdBLC2zK7zAyplFYMTLD9ZU9Pzn_ElTPF4SJlmJKBDkOn1fMKRNABBQqlE9i72cLE-T_bbsCT1S3xR8Dx2bxyQgLOgMwHtG5aNKLjGkI2Xocf1dKyKkVlPQlqCF8G8uycpkGCk_gjLkoViiYsaH_L6xCa55CgG1mjWudQ42nWmqVEsbegcud47fT6qk8z61k7f9-SU4mDe8zZsFuS8WOekXLlXqtRWvZn00vwFVPwS_kPKnKaevd4Y0WpgSawQnM1ZRPEQaWRILmG2SBOhP3E6IZkIOKrmMeod6MHf5Yj098ikfbVoBd-LMRZey4dDngBqTmp1t9hEemkZx0IQ3kPkAi_Oc-dWWTAnyvdOAjp08vwxOJamOT-Np3_9goqDzHT6xgz7EKoSD6DCsMTFptL9nzwQv_8=w1212-h909-no)
Don't know where u r located ,but Williams in Greer S C is a dealer so I am assuming that all the Williams shops are.The DBW 2010 is what is in my Prevost Conversion and it is plumbed the way u say u want yours.Wonderful when they r working ,can be a royal pitr when they don't.
Quote from: bigred on October 11, 2015, 08:00:53 AM
Don't know where u r located
Rapid City, SD so SC is a bit far ;D. Interstate in Sioux Falls, SD or the one in Gillette, WY are the closest to me.
Bruce
You're in SD, hook up with Roger Burke. http://www.rvhydronicheaterrepair.com/ (http://www.rvhydronicheaterrepair.com/)
ck spare parts section there is a guy down by Nashville that has one for sale. We go down once a week to Vanderbilt med center. Bob Also nick badame (one of the moderators ) deals in that sort of thing. FWIW
Bruce, there are several places to pickup a Wabasto Heater and parts in the Twin Cities. I happen to know JD with Buses and More has several take-outs he is selling cheap.. Google "buses and more" to find his number. I have had really good dealings with JD and his brother Matt.
Give them a call and tell them what you want.
SolarDude
To give you another option the Pro/Heat made in Canada is IMO a lot better and more trouble free unit than a Wabasto parts are cheaper and tech support is direct from the factory not a dealer MCI is Pro/Heat only now.I am not a huge fan of diesel fired heat but I have one so I live with the problems they can be expensive to maintain
Quote from: PRZNBUS on October 11, 2015, 05:29:57 AM... I need to pre heat the engine and also warm the cabin. Can the coolant lines be run and tied into the front heater core so the driver heat and defrosters still work?
Also, how would I disperse the heat into the rest of the interior, baseboard heaters, forced air or what. Can the main heater core be removed or is this still the best way to get cabin heat with a smaller fan to move the air? ...
Most people find that it's best to use a manifold or similar switching valves for the output of a Webasto or ProHeat. That way, you can direct all the output to pre-heating the engine, or (if you're parked for a few days) isolate the engine and send all the heat to the interior heaters or defroster. You can also arrange your manifold or valves to switch between full interior or driver's heat/defrost. It is also possible to have a coil in your water heater so you're making domestic hot water off the output. It's all a matter of valving and where you direct the hot water/antifreeze output from the Webasto/ProHeat.
My experience with Webastos was when I worked for a car company that used them. I agree with Clifford - they can be touchy and troubleshooting/repair is tricky sometimes. But it sure is nice on a frosty morning to get out of bed in a warm bedroom, take a hot shower, throw a valve and have a warm engine in 30 minutes for startup, then turn another valve and have immediate defroster/driver's heat as you drive away.
Good idea on manifolds for isolating zones. I'll check out Pro Heat as I'm not tied to anything right now.
Bruce
Just looked at the Proheat X45 and I kinda like this unit. I haven't fully designed my electrical system yet, my electrical genius friend says to wire the bus like a yacht. So probably order a 24 volt model if I decide to go Proheat. Does this unit need an enclosure if it's mounted in the engine bay on a MC9?
Bruce
Quote from: Oonrahnjay on October 12, 2015, 05:13:57 AM
Most people find that it's best to use a manifold or similar switching valves for the output of a Webasto or ProHeat. That way, you can direct all the output to pre-heating the engine, or (if you're parked for a few days) isolate the engine and send all the heat to the interior heaters or defroster. You can also arrange your manifold or valves to switch between full interior or driver's heat/defrost. It is also possible to have a coil in your water heater so you're making domestic hot water off the output. It's all a matter of valving and where you direct the hot water/antifreeze output from the Webasto/ProHeat.
My experience with Webastos was when I worked for a car company that used them. I agree with Clifford - they can be touchy and troubleshooting/repair is tricky sometimes. But it sure is nice on a frosty morning to get out of bed in a warm bedroom, take a hot shower, throw a valve and have a warm engine in 30 minutes for startup, then turn another valve and have immediate defroster/driver's heat as you drive away.
The way mine is set-up. Plus I have a heat exchanger between the engine loop and house loop so I change coolant in either without having change both. Also I use different coolant in each loop.
Quote from: Lee Bradley on October 12, 2015, 08:08:48 AMThe way mine is set-up. Plus I have a heat exchanger between the engine loop and house loop so I change coolant in either without having change both. Also I use different coolant in each loop.
Yes, very good design plans. If you have damage to part of either loop or need to do work on one of them, that minimizes the amount of coolant that you lose/have to drain and it also gives you some protection from catastrophic failure. Pretty much the only drawbacks to this are a little additional complexity and perhaps the need for additional circulation pumps; the benefits far outweigh the drawbacks in my opinion. And if the worst happens and you have a big failure, you should be able to isolate problem areas from the engine portion using the manifold valves, refill the engine circuit and limp to where you can get to a safe place or where you can get a proper repair done.
+1 for the proheat. I have an x45, it is powerful and the design is very simple, basically a little blower furnace. Nothing to go wrong really. Website has install, parts and troubleshooting guides, and you can order parts from them. Also Canadians know about cold, i have heard that the proheat heater/PU/AC is not very good. Have repeatedly heard Webasto is fussy. If the proheat motherboard goes you are f****ed, but as long as you follow instructions you will be fine, and everything has a motherboard these days and they rarely fail. Pretty soon the manufacturing sector will probably start writing hiden failure programs so we replace our dishwashers every 5/years.
Quote from: zubzub on October 12, 2015, 01:17:03 PM
Pretty soon the manufacturing sector will probably start writing hiden failure programs so we replace our dishwashers every 5/years.
Naw, they wouldn't do anything like play with the programming, would they Ferdinand?