I'm now adjusting (or at least trying to) the valves on my 6V92. I rebuilt the Jakes on one side so far, found several bad O-rings and a broken oil supply tube so it's obvious why they weren't working, and am now attempting to set all that side's valves to 0.016" Some are much too tight, a few are slightly too loose - who knows when they were last adjusted? I need to get the valves correct before the all-important Jake adjustment to 0.059".
The Detroit book says to adjust valves at the pushrod, using a 5/16" wrench on the pushrod and a 1/2" on its locknut. Are there special angle-head wrenches for this? Regular straight wrenches are almost impossible to use in the tight space there. It took me ages just to get one cylinder's valves done, and the next ones will be even more difficult to reach due to the DDEC wiring. It's a pity one can't adjust them by the easily-accessible screwdriver slot and locknut on the valves' bridges in the front, instead of having to do contortions at the back!
Also, the book says to adjust them so a 0.015" gauge is a loose fit and a 0.017" is too tight. OK, I get that, and I got the first valves set that way. However, at the end of the chapter the book also says that 0.016" +/- 0.004" is satisfactory. That doesn't sound right to me. What gives?
I'm a noobie at this, so any advice from folk who've done this job would be well-heeded!
Many thanks, John
Takes 2 of the wrenches John, Snap/On M3518 and M3517 adjust with a go/nogo feeler gauge .015 will go, .017 will not then you have .016 you can find all 3 on Ebay if not drop me a address and you can use mine just return them.On the jumper tubes just tighten by hand on the seal side of the housing or they will break again I use a 0.010 feeler gauge there JMW
OK, thanks, I'll look for them first on eBay - I always like having tools, even if they're not going to be often used!
I tightened the jumper tubes as Jake said, snugged up to the housing then backed off 1/3 turn before tightening the locknut. That seems too tight - I think they should allow some slight movement or expansion between housings, so I'll try your suggestion. I think that when the locknut is tightened it draws the tubes back out as much as the 1/3 turn they were screwed in, so there's probably still metal-to-metal contact between the housings and tubes. I'll reset them to 0.010" final clearance.
I'll ignore that mention of +/- 0.004" for the valves - it's a pain in the tushy to set them to exactly 0.016", but that's what you and the book say, so that's what I'll do.
As always, thanks so much for your advice.
John
http://www.ebay.com/itm/J-24790-C-Kent-Moore-Detroit-Diesel-tune-up-kit-for-53-71-92-series-/121743305595?hash=item1c58776b7b&item=121743305595&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/J-24790-C-Kent-Moore-Detroit-Diesel-tune-up-kit-for-53-71-92-series-/121743305595?hash=item1c58776b7b&item=121743305595&vxp=mtr)
for example. Note the wacky wrenches, the cut-out socket for the fuel lines, all the injector timing pins. Not sure how important the two missing wrenches are. It seems to alxo be missing some feeler gauges. Anyway, there is that and this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-Diesel-Tune-Up-Set-2020GDSB-Detroit-Mechanics-Tool-Box-Find-Truck-Boat-H/271964049053?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33278%26meid%3D84516517cf5e41b5b8cab72080fdd917%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D121743305595 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-Diesel-Tune-Up-Set-2020GDSB-Detroit-Mechanics-Tool-Box-Find-Truck-Boat-H/271964049053?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33278%26meid%3D84516517cf5e41b5b8cab72080fdd917%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D121743305595)
Just to give you an idea. My kit is one of the Snap-On ones, I just like red tool boxes I guess...
Brian
if i could find my "wacky wrenches" you can have them... they are the most cumbersome wanky excuse for a tool ever made... imo :)
a good sturdy 5/16 wrench heated and bent about 40 degrees makes a much better tool... again imo :)
Quote from: eagle19952 on September 02, 2015, 12:28:12 PM
if i could find my "wacky wrenches" you can have them... they are the most cumbersome wanky excuse for a tool ever made... imo :)
a good sturdy 5/16 wrench heated and bent about 40 degrees makes a much better tool... again imo :)
Yes, the same thought had occurred to me too. I could demote my cheapo-but-still-OK wrenches to this, and just bend their heads over enough. Definitely worth a try if I can't find a good price for the two Snap-Ons that Clifford recommended.
Darn, Detroit couldn't have made it much more awkward if they tried. What a design!
Thanks, John
cheapo's usually are worse... unless by cheapo you mean vintage Craftsman or Proto or SK Wayne...
I just bought two Snap-On wrenches from eBay. I'll see how they work, but they can't be any worse than what I'm doing now!
Not that I'm going to touch them now, but when would you ever adjust the slotted adjuster on each valve bridge? Is it only for when valves are replaced, or what? It's almost like Detroit put them there in the front to taunt you while you faff about with the pushrods at the back.
Thanks, John
Setting up the valve bridges is only done when you install the bridges for the first time, or after a valve job. Or similar to that. It's a bit of a pain.
Brian
LOL and yea some people cannot stand the temptation they adjust the clearance and here they come saying my engine has miss after I adjusted the valves