Trying to remove drivers side motor so I can rebuild it. Can't get this outer notched ring loose no matter how hard I hammer the notch with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer. Soaked in PB blaster and no dice. Someone lead me down another path please.
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You may be better off with a toothed socket ( Pin Wrench Socket, ball joint socket ). On mine I just bumped it with an impact wrench and it came flying off. You can also make your own with an old socket and a grinder. Or in a pinch you could use a hook wrench...
All I ever use is a spanner wrench they are cheap at Harbor/Snap
Thank you again! I didn't realize these existed. Thanks so much. I have a hefty impact gun that should make light work of this as soon as I get a socket on it. Thanks again!
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Quote from: Scott Bennett on August 24, 2015, 05:54:07 PM
Thank you again! I didn't realize these existed. Thanks so much. I have a hefty impact gun that should make light work of this as soon as I get a socket on it. Thanks again!
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Sure, hope it works out!
Scott, you will need a deep tooth socket before you spend the money on the one shown the shaft sticks out too much on a MCI for the shallow socket that is why I use a spanner wrench fwiw Snap/On wants to much money for a set of deep well spanner sockets for my budget ;D
Ok, so if I use a spanner it's basically grunt force?
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Quote from: Scott Bennett on August 24, 2015, 07:50:58 PM
Ok, so if I use a spanner it's basically grunt force?
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You are young ;D ;D ;D once it move it comes off easy
you can adjust the fulcrum on the spanner wrench with a pipe... ie: cheater....if necessary :)
If it's too frozen and bunged-up could you not face drill into the nut with a series of small drill holes 180 degrees apart and then chisel axially (from the side into the bolt) and split the nut.
Ok. Cheater pipe and spanner it is. I don't think it's that frozen brassman. I guess we will find out tofay
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That one maybe a little tough looking at the rust streaks I always try to tighten a frozen bolt or nut 1st works 90% of the time
Quote from: luvrbus on August 25, 2015, 05:43:53 AM
That one maybe a little tough looking at the rust streaks I always try to tighten a frozen bolt or nut 1st works 90% of the time
ps an old dirt bike shock absorber adj wrench might fit...
never understood spanner wrench its like saying dog dog ;D or even worse a crescent spanner wrench. "Pass that adjustable crescent spanner wrench" would have resulted in my mentor throwing a tool box at me ;D
What's wrong with saying spanner wrench lol you not going to remove the packing from a excavator cylinder with a tooth socket (spanner socket) you are going to use a spanner wrench either the pin type or the slot type
I always called them a castle socket. Is this not the same?
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Castle+Nut+Socket&FORM=RESTAB (http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Castle+Nut+Socket&FORM=RESTAB)
Quote from: luvrbus on August 25, 2015, 10:29:20 AM
What's wrong with saying spanner wrench lol you not going to remove the packing from a excavator cylinder with a tooth socket (spanner socket) you are going to use a spanner wrench either the pin type or the slot type
O' nothing, I was just piping off ;) Every region / country will have a different name for it.
Quote from: IMABUSBOY on August 25, 2015, 10:48:42 AM
I always called them a castle socket. Is this not the same?
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Castle+Nut+Socket&FORM=RESTAB (http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Castle+Nut+Socket&FORM=RESTAB)
[/qu
Castle nuts are different than the spanner nuts you use a cotter pin with castle nuts
Quote from: IMABUSBOY on August 25, 2015, 10:48:42 AM
I always called them a castle socket. Is this not the same?
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Castle+Nut+Socket&FORM=RESTAB (http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Castle+Nut+Socket&FORM=RESTAB)
If you were in Japan! Most Japanese / Asian cars / motorcycles have castle nuts that look exactly like his nut on the windshield wiper.
Used without cotter pin as a jam nut.
Depends how old you are .... and how old your mentor was.... mine was born prior to 1900....
whatcha call this.... (https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.wmsopko.com%2Fimages%2FP-10859.jpg&hash=0e7b2c65c4ae5c821e9719b6952e497f613e003c)
or this ... (https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.directindustry.com%2Fimages_di%2Fphoto-g%2Farticulated-axial-pin-wrench-169-2575761.jpg&hash=ff125ae0cc215a8579c8052a8d8eaf28f451efc4)
or this ... (https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.practicalmachinist.com%2Fvb%2Fattachments%2Ff38%2F7548d1226263752-making-spanner-wrench-dsc02576.jpg&hash=2965f44c0a54a595c92af007cbd4a266d870f258)
;D
Haven't saw the one on the bottom since the moon was golf ball size someone told me they were making those again
Those are pin spanner or pin wrenches. Different dealio
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lvrbus, you're right hmm
Darkspeed, good call. I was a mec-tech at a Dotson dealership (now Nissan) back in the 70's, That's where I was introduced to the castle nut.
eagle19952, the top one looks like the one I use to change the disk in my 4 1/2" grinder.
The crescent wench deal, I've never seen.
Danny
Im guessing the crescent was made by someone who can either fly a plane or a helicopter or both... just a guess..
When you get them out find the nearest trash can.lol thats what i should of done when i rebuilt mine.i went to eletric. much better. ;D
And so I got so tired of all this spanner wrench talk, I just used my brute force strength and a vise grip. Done :) rebuild kit ordered from Luke and on its merry way to me as we type. (https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F15%2F08%2F26%2Ff4033377f1f9b01fa6982b1b75e43848.jpg&hash=955d0e487a96af8cac515c168aab6189cd25af0a)
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Can't beat good old American made Vise/Grips :D
my dad use to say .... all you need in a tool kit is 2 pairs of vise grips a slot screwdriver and a hammer
dave
Scott, I hope you have better luck than I did. I rebuilt both my air motors and I haven't had wipers since. I won't have wipers until I get back to the Chattanooga garage this winter.
Very simple they say! Yup, it was simple...
They are......mark location of lines and ports, do one at a time, parts go together in a particular way, and have a factory service manual if you are planning on keeping coach more than a week. Some people think only idiots need service manuals, they are a costly luxury, they can figure things out without them, or jump on the forums every time they are stuck.
I'm still waiting for my rebuild kit to arrive from Luke. Once it comes I'll be carefully rebuilding. I'll let you know how it goes Dave. I sure hope I don't end up with dead wipers
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I rebuilt both of mine. Used pipe wrench on outside nuts. Take your time, test fit the pieces, try it mechanically prior to air valve. Then be careful, slip in the air valve, the bench test. Take pictures as you take it apart. Good luck.
Allan
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Well, Christmas came for me today! I'll be working on this tomorrow. Wish me luck. I'll take your advice and take plenty of pictures
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Scott - let me know how it turns out. Ill do mine in Texas in February 8)
-Sean
I accidentally posted this in Dave's thread...I meant to put it in mine. ::)
Ok. In Dave's defense, (Tikvah), I very carefully and slowly (this project took most of my day today) took photos of the assembly, and disassembled it. Replaced plungers/o-rings, and air manifold. Put it all back together...and it was jammed up. Same problem he had. The problem is that you can't easily mark the gear/track locations to each other so when you put it back together it's easy to guess and mis-align them. That being said, I'm going to call Dave here in a little bit because I think he posted that he has the gear in the dead center of the track. This isn't correct, I had to pull everything apart all over again and using the photos I took earlier, positioned the lever arms in the "parked" position, and then moved the track to place the gear at one complete side of the housing. This proved to be the issue and I have a wiper that once was completely dead, and now lives! And really operates smoothly...wow...no jerky movements, just smooth and I like that I can slow it down or speed it up with the knob. I'm a believer in air wipers again. Mine are dated 1982, so they are the same age as me...33 years out of a wiper motor ain't too bad in my opinion. Here's some pics of my mess and a video of success!
VIDEO OF SUCCESS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2hftXtkUak (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2hftXtkUak)
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I see that the new front assy has brass threaded bushings now. Mine are the old style with small cracks like your's, but not as bad. in the back ground.
If anyone wants my old o-rings and plunger inserts etc, I can send them. You could probably buy o rings locally much cheaper. Between the plastic manifold and the oring and cork gasket kit, I was out $130. That's too much money in my opinion
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