Bus skin, that is!! :D :D :D
I was just lookin at Gary's pix - thanx again Gary!!! Fantastic job!!! - and I was wondering about a new skin for my 4108.
Now, it is just something that crossed my mind!!!!!!!! I am not really thinking about doing it.... at least not for a long time..... But I was wondering how someone goes about getting the skin? AND, if it was possible to get stainless instead of aluminum? Is there any reason why someone shouldn't use stainless as opposed to aluminum? I work with metal everyday, and as far as I can tell, there wouldn't be any reason as far as the metal goes. But........ always open to learning something new.
Just wondering,
Chaz
The GMC's use monocoque building technique that, as you probably know, relies on the skin of the bus for its' structural support. Stainless, aluminum, fiberglass can be used on the Eagles, since they have a tubular frame work that does the supporting and the skin is just that, non supporting. Personally, I'd leave well enough alone! The GMC engineers really knew what they were doing when they made the over the road buses, like what you have. They created some of the lightest weight buses made that have out lasted most other buses life cycle. You can try polishing the aluminum (I think a big mistake, then you have to keep polishing it, and that eventually thins the metal), but a really nice paint job would be the best. Just remember that the bus is aluminum skinned so that you don't mount steel onto it for galvanic oxidation. On my bus, it is aluminum skinned with steel structure that the engineers took great pains to keep the two separated. Hence, my 30 year old bus has no serious rust (has some minor surface rust). I just wish that GMC had made a 35ft'r that was 102" wide with 6'10" of head room.! Good Luck, TomC
chaz I have alot of brand new GM skin
drop me a note
Tom, so you think that s.s. would alter the structural integrity of the bus?? I know the weight would increase, but I could live with that. Stainless is just so dang pretty!! ;) I use it whenever I can. Especially when I replace bolts.
I don't think I would have any issues where the stainless mates up to the aluminum, but if it is deemed so, i could always isolate the two.
Again........ I was just thinking out loud about it. Not that I was wanting to do it, but then again, I DO have access to sheets of 19 ga. mirror polished stainless!! ;) I would just have to roll in the beads.
Thanx for the insight!
Always thinkin,
Chaz
Tekebird,
Really. That is cool. Is it something you made or had made? My aluminum is in good shape sans the "dullness". I was just thinking the s.s., when polished, looks really cool. And easier to upkeep. Hence the reason I want s.s. simulators instead of Alcoas.
If I would ever reskin the top, which is steel, I would do it in stainless. Like I said, I love the stuff and work in it all the time.
What do ya think about polished copper for skin?? JUST KIDDING............ just kidding. I have a bunch of that too. ;)
Better quit thinking,
Chaz
Chaz:
You know thinking gets you in trouble, at least it does me.
ED
MCI 7
Ya ain't wrong! ;)
Thread HIJACK
Tom, they did, they are called RTS's ;)
Frank
Chaz
A couple of years ago I talked to the guys at IBP and they would "form " complete sheets of"GM "alum -then I could cut to length for big bay -little bay deal-batt door etc. sounded like a good plan to me :)
Thanx Jim, Tekebird has some oem skin, but I was just just thinking about stainless. I love the stuff and it is as maintenance free as you can get!!
Just tryin to be lazy,
Chaz
Chaz,
You talk of low maintence. Look at how much work is involved in replacing the skin. Then compare that to the look of polished alum. I saw a 4104 in Arcadia that was polished a year ago & still lookes GREAT.
If your heart is set on stainless, you may need to consider another bus that is already stainless. A few years ago I priced ss for my scenicruiser from IBP . . . $30,000+
Pat McNeil put polished stainless on his customized 4501 & it looks great, but then again, Pat has changed lots of things on his when he lengthened it to 45 ft & raised the roof. So anything is possible with enough time, talent & $$$$$$$$$$$$$
Have fun!
kyle4501
Kyle,
Like I said in the first post, it was just a thought. "IF" I would ever do such a thing, I was curious about what it would effect, if anything.
I work in stainless, copper, bronze everyday and can weld anything weldable. And you are 100% correct...... the price is WAAAAAAY out there!!! Sad isn't it. Takes allot of the fun out of my chosen profession, for me.
But, IF it was ever necessary to skin my bus, I think it would be pretty trick -IF- it would not have any other adverse effects. The structural integrity being #1. I love my Buffalo and think it would look pretty cool all polished out on the bottom with stainless. (That sweet Scenic Cruiser comes to mind :o ;D) Plus, I am notorious for keeping my toys. (Whoever dies with the most wins!! ;D) I have had my '56 Chevy -daily driver- for 27 years, my '46 Harley for 26 years, etc........
Polishing is another question: mine is definitely a bit on the dull side, and I think I read in another thread that if I "had" (cause I'm not going to do it! ;)) it polished out, I would be asking for even more issues with keeping it nice. ie. I kind of understood it to mean that there was an anodize coating or something on it. If it doesn't, I will probably have it polished later on.
Definitely havin fun, hope you are too!!
Chaz
Quote from: Chaz on January 08, 2007, 06:52:02 AM
I work in stainless, copper, bronze everyday and can weld anything weldable.
How about the
crack of dawn? LOL
Richard
Chaz -
Your Buffalo's aluminum skin is anodized, which helps protect it from corrosion.
To polish it to a mirror finish required buffing thru the anodization, which eliminates the corrosion protection.
Not sure if you'd want to do that, living in the Rust Belt like you do. . .
IIRC, I believe the polished '04 that was in Arcadia had clear coat over the polish, which helps some.
Have a friend here locally that you'd swear his 4905 was fresh out of the factory, the skin looks so good. Get up close and you can see why - it's been painted! He took the fuel door off, cleaned it up real thoroughly, took it into an automotive paint supplier, and they matched it perfectly. So that's another option - and a less expensive one, too!!
FWIW & HTH. . .
;)
prob is with clear coat or paint.
when it gets boogered up it looks like crap.
Quote from: tekebird on January 08, 2007, 07:53:58 AM
prob is with clear coat or paint.
when it gets boogered up it looks like crap.
Same is true for anodized Alum. Especially if the wrong stuff is put on it! (But that's true for everything)
With all those rivets, ain't nothing after market gona easily beat the factory job. Pat built a frame for his 4501 so the skin isn't structural. Pat used adhesive to apply the polished SS skins in such a way that you see no exposed fasteners. Very slick job.
As far as using ss for the skin, you need to consult the galvanic corrosion chart to determine how much of a problem you are looking into creating. It wouldn't be a good thing if the structure became the sacrificial anode.
QuoteIt wouldn't be a good thing if the structure became the sacrificial anode.
OH, so true!!!!!!
QuoteHave a friend here locally that you'd swear his 4905 was fresh out of the factory, the skin looks so good. Get up close and you can see why - it's been painted! He took the fuel door off, cleaned it up real thoroughly, took it into an automotive paint supplier, and they matched it perfectly. So that's another option - and a less expensive one, too!!
That's interesting!! I have buddies that have a gun that "shoots" a pic of your paint and then matches it. I hadn't thought of that. But, I would still like to get away from paint and polishing. But then, I would also like allot of things!! :D
QuoteHow about the crack of dawn? LOL
Nope, but that's where I wake up........... oh, oh, wait a minute, nope, thats Linda. ::) LOLOLOLOL ::) ;D ;D
QuotePat built a frame for his 4501 so the skin isn't structural. Pat used adhesive to apply the polished SS skins in such a way that you see no exposed fasteners. Very slick job.
Man, that would be slick!!!!
Like you said, havin fun,
Chaz
Theres nothing like the look of the polished stainless on a coach. There are (20+) sitting in front of me on any given day. When you set them side by side with a non polished coach the difference is remarkable. The "curb appeal" & resale value go up as well. many times friends have told me that there coach sold itself just on it's exterior pictures because of the polish.
Polishing a GMC is a whole nother ball game........The anodizing is the tuff nut to crack. One day I tried for 1/2 hour to polish through anodizing. No Way. Then i got (800) grit sand paper - no way.... Then 400 grit - no way. Then 200 grit & cut right through it.
Aluminum is MUCH easier to polish than stainless. But the anodizing is a tough coating................Aluminum does not hold it's finish, E.G. - Ramco Mirrors. But will polish back to bright pretty easily.
Rich