I'm getting close to ordering a new inverter and a battery pack. But I'm currently very rural, so I'm wondering where to get my 6v golf cart batteries. I'm assuming I can't get them local?
Also, I don't know anything except that I want 6v golf cart batteries... what else should I know?
Sams Club or Costco their prices are good on golf cart batteries and always fresh
Thanks, I see Sam's carries Duracell GC2 that has a 20 amp hour of 215 for $84.52 each
Dave - That's spot on for batteries. You won't find them much cheaper than that.
And I think this is my inverter....
http://www.theinverterstore.com/3000-watt-pure-sine-inverter-charger-24-volt.html (http://www.theinverterstore.com/3000-watt-pure-sine-inverter-charger-24-volt.html)
Tikvah,
Holy Moly! where'd you find that inverter. That is one heck of a deal on a pure sine wave 3000 watt. Nice sleuthing around for deals. The battery price is great too.
RB
Thanks Rick, but somebody is going to tell me I should spend a lot more money. But unless I can see a really good reason, I think I'll keep my money.
Some of the fancy inverters will share external and inverter power to make up for power shortage, but that's a luxury I can live without.
I haven't figured out yet how to automatically switch from pole to inverter without shutting off my power, but again, I'd be cautions spending extra cash for that feature too.
I'm really happy with simple. I like quality, but someplace there's a line we must all draw.
Dave
If you don't have core batteries they will charge you a extra 12 bucks for each of the batteries. I usually pay 5 bucks ea from the local wrecking yard and trade them in they don't care about the size lol I have traded the small lawn mower batteries in before they never said a word
Quote from: Tikvah on June 29, 2015, 03:39:01 PM
And I think this is my inverter....
http://www.theinverterstore.com/3000-watt-pure-sine-inverter-charger-24-volt.html (http://www.theinverterstore.com/3000-watt-pure-sine-inverter-charger-24-volt.html)
You may want to research other users' experiences with AIMS inverters. For around that same price range you should also look at inverters made by Cotek in Taiwan, such as Samlex and other brands - Cotek-made inverters have a good reputation, and they are repairable just in case the magic smoke escapes.
Another idea is a factory-refurbished Magnum inverter - for $1,000 I got a Magnum MS2000 inverter/charger from Wholesale Solar, complete with built-in transfer switch (which I won't need) and an efficient 100A charger, made in USA, completely repairable and field-serviceable, and built to a very high standard of design and quality. I was originally thinking of getting a Cotek inverter and Samlex charger, but the Magnum was less money overall. Brand new they're $1700-ish, so a factory-refurb is a good value. For my modest AC needs I think it will work well for me.
Just a thought.
John
I just put together an entire new system. Got the Sam's Club 6 volts. SO far so good but it's brand new.
https://goo.gl/photos/Xmi9eaaHQDcdCFVP9
The primary reason I've ignored the Cotek brand is they are inverters without chargers. My current system has a 2000 MSW unit without a charger. And my experience has proven that external chargers seem to loose interest when significant DC loads are present. So, when I need DC power the most, the chargers fail.
My chargers (I have one smart charger on my 24v and one smart charger on my 12v) work wonderfully when there is little or no load on the DC. But when I run my fans, lights, pump, etc... they go into some kind of pause mode.
So, I'm figuring that the inverter/charger will be smart enough to keep charging and providing DC voltage even when I'm on the pole.
Let me know if I'm not right about this ? ? ?
Brett, What are these?
(https://photos-2.dropbox.com/t/2/AAC9JsURflPb2BrdrIoU9HfK-Frwc2Qj5VrsjG11LSHRQQ/12/31679284/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/IMG_20150525_161426_Fotor.jpg/CLTGjQ8gASACIAMgBCAFIAYgBygBKAI/7_eAHH7kkmIUzywdP0bGOOZi8rePA8EvzI8xz_amH0c?size=1024x768&size_mode=2)
I would seek more info regarding the item in red...(pasted from the cited URL)
Is that switchable, adjustable, a dual output unit ? 50Hz. and /or 60Hz. ?
Inverter Output Specifications:
Continuous Output Power: 3000 Watts
Surge Rating: 9000 Watts (20 Seconds)
Output Waveform: Pure Sine/Same as input (Bypass Mode)
Output Voltage: 100-110-120Vac
Nominal Efficiency: >88% (Peak)
Line Mode Efficiency: >95%
Out Frequency: 50Hz +/- 0.3Hz / 60Hz +/- 0.3Hzutp
Typical Transfer Time: 10ms (Max)
THD: < 10% DC
QuoteI would seek more info regarding the item in red...(pasted from the cited URL)
Is that switchable, adjustable, a dual output unit ? 50Hz. and /or 60Hz. ?
Donald,
I called them and they say there is a DIP switch to choose between 50Hz and 60Hz. Default obviously is 60Hz.
Just as a data point, I have the 6v Duracell golf cart batteries from Sam's like you're talking about and they're working great. I've had them about a year with no problems. Clifford makes a good point about the core charge though. Take something with you or they'll charge you the extra fee.
Sams club here too, I have only used them a short time but for the price and no shipping it was the only way to go at this point. I also bought a Progressive dynamics 70 Amp charger/Converter and a Xantrex Pure Sine 1000 Watt inverter, together they were around $500. So far I am happy with the setup, running the two TV's and media servers, WiFi router, and refrigerator I can go at least 36 hours and probably more without recharging. I think I spent around $1200 including relays, wire, breaker, etc for the setup.
They wanted $16 each for core charges, I brought in 4 very small batteries from a PC battery backup that I was getting rid of any way.
I got my hands on a roll of 4/0 copper wire (welding cable). How do I connect the ends? Do I need to buy a hydraulic crimper? Should I crimp AND solider? Heat shrink or tape?
I guess you've done your research :)
One other point, I would consider is a secondary method to do an equalization charge if in fact the unit does not have that capability.
Crimp. look around to borrow one. these work well too.
http://www.grainger.com/category/cable-and-wire-crimping-tools/crimping-tools/hand-tools/ecatalog/N-c2x#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fcable-and-wire-crimping-tools%2Fcrimping-tools%2Fhand-tools%2Fecatalog%2FN-c2xZ1yzvzdr (http://www.grainger.com/category/cable-and-wire-crimping-tools/crimping-tools/hand-tools/ecatalog/N-c2x#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fcable-and-wire-crimping-tools%2Fcrimping-tools%2Fhand-tools%2Fecatalog%2FN-c2xZ1yzvzdr)
These work very well too.
There are a few vendors/manufacturers, some better some average.
[/u]]http://www.remybattery.com/Compression-Connectors-C1384.aspx (http://www.remybattery.com/Compression-Connectors-C1384.aspx%5Bu)
(https://static.shop033.com/resources/74/162420/Image/Comp_Display.jpg)
I bought all premade interconnect cables and made the longer ones using this crimper and a vise.
Crimper.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VU5WX8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VU5WX8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00)
These are very nicely made cables for the price.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JGJGIKW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JGJGIKW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00)
QuoteSams club here too, I have only used them a short time but for the price and no shipping it was the only way to go at this point. I also bought a Progressive dynamics 70 Amp charger/Converter and a Xantrex Pure Sine 1000 Watt inverter, together they were around $500. So far I am happy with the setup, running the two TV's and media servers, WiFi router, and refrigerator I can go at least 36 hours and probably more without recharging. I think I spent around $1200 including relays, wire, breaker, etc for the setup.
They wanted $16 each for core charges, I brought in 4 very small batteries from a PC battery backup that I was getting rid of any way.
Hmmm, a charger/converter and a separate inverter ? ? ? Interesting concept.
That seems like there could be some advantages.
Oh, and I called sam's...
$18.00 core charge! and they must be full size automotive batteries! I never dreamed
When I got my group 31's, the Interstate dealer accepted one 8d as two cores and gave me cash for the other 8d.
Some states do add a disposal fee (tax) on top of the core charge we don't have it here and they take any battery,the retailer here goes from 5 and no more than 15 bucks for a battery core
Quote from: Tikvah on June 30, 2015, 12:49:17 PM
I got my hands on a roll of 4/0 copper wire (welding cable). How do I connect the ends? Do I need to buy a hydraulic crimper? Should I crimp AND solider? Heat shrink or tape?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-OF-5-NOS-PNL-500-COPPER-WIRE-LUGS-T-P-U-4-500-/391178717672?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b141189e8 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-OF-5-NOS-PNL-500-COPPER-WIRE-LUGS-T-P-U-4-500-/391178717672?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b141189e8)
This is what I used for terminals on my 4/0 welding cable. My batteries have a stud that pulls the flat surface down on a flat lead circle about one inch in diameter. I used a piece of copper tubing over the end of the cable to distribute the load from the screw.
The major downside of a separate charger/converter and inverter is you can, if you're not careful, get into a loop where you are running the charger off the inverter and charging the batteries that you are using to charge the batteries. Ways around that, of course. :) Converters definitely have their place, they are usually biased towards being a stable DC power source for an RV rather than being an ultimate charger, but some have both modes and are programmable.
Brian
I like the converter charger,and separate inverter.Wouldn't have it any other way.
Quote from: Tikvah on June 30, 2015, 12:49:17 PM
I got my hands on a roll of 4/0 copper wire (welding cable). How do I connect the ends? Do I need to buy a hydraulic crimper? Should I crimp AND solider? Heat shrink or tape?
Ideally all lugs should be crimped on with a good circumferential crimper that evenly compresses the lug around the cable strands so tightly that it effectively cold-welds the cable and lugs into one indivisible solid mass of copper. The phrase for this is "gas-tight" - if your connection is this solid, you wouldn't even be able to wick any solder into the joint at all. The concern with soldering is that if the lug overheats, the solder could melt out and create a fire hazard (or worse). The least expensive crimper I've found that will make good connections like this is the FTZ 94284, available from K.L.Jack for only $170 - it makes perfect four-sided crimps on all thicknesses and sizes of lugs, and when I cut one joint apart to check it the strands and lug had fused into one solid mass of copper. To cut 4/0 cable without splaying out the strands (which makes it impossible to fit into a tight lug) you need a BIG cutter like a TEMco TH0003 - they're only $39 from eBay, and plenty good enough for occasional use like what we're doing.
The small Chinese hydraulic lug crimpers, such as the Harbor Fright one, are good for up to about 4AWG, but even though their dies are marked 0AWG there's no way they can crimp that large without making rabbit ears on the lug. However, the FTZ isn't so good on the smaller sizes, so having one of each crimper works well. They'll make a good hexagonal crimp, again gas-tight, but only if you can work out which darn size of dies to use!
Making cables is fun, especially when you can make them exactly the right length and lug orientation, two things that ready-made cables usually won't be. I've found the best price for tinned 4/0 lugs is from Northern Arizona Wind & Sun, and 4/0 cable is available for $4 or less from eBay sellers, so it's not too expensive to make your own cables. And when you're done, use some good heatshrink, then you'll have cables as good as, or better than, most ready-made cables - I've seen some "professionally-made" cables that I wouldn't trust at all !
John
We have been buying batteries from a recycler. This guy gets take out batteries from fork lifts. These companies change all the batteries even if only one is weak. Usually they are less than six months old, have never been outside and look like new. We have two years on a set of twelve now and paid $40 each for them. There is probably somebody like this in most areas.
Don and Cary
TEMco seems to endorse this one...
http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/products/Crimpers/TH0007.html (http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/products/Crimpers/TH0007.html)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.temcoindustrialpower.com%2Fcontent%2Ftools%2Fhammer_crimper.jpg&hash=a6fab6e9b0782b9f2c220176d79423997a130e7b)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.temcoindustrialpower.com%2Fcontent%2Ftools%2Findent_crimp_xsection.jpg&hash=47a7d5a72505d63c79bbc2d7bea57b80a9941320)
Switching inverter to shore power, I am just going to use a 120 volt relay that is energized by shore power. Unplugged from shore power the iinverter power goes through the normally closed contacts and energized shore power goes through normally open contacts. The relays I have are Potter Blumfield, one type I have has 2 sets of contacts and the other 3 all rated at 10 amps each @120 V AC with both normally open and closed contacts. Depending on inverter size you could gang up the contacts. Plug will be dead when on inverter.
Hydraulic crisper is nicest, we have a good one at work. You can even get like a loctite for the cable before you crimp, oxygen can't get to the copper strands, supposed to stop corrosion. I have a bottle from Wurth and its called electrical contact enhancer. Add a little heat shrink and your done!
Cary and don, where in the country are you?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Tikvah on June 30, 2015, 06:34:02 AM
Brett, What are these?
(https://photos-2.dropbox.com/t/2/AAC9JsURflPb2BrdrIoU9HfK-Frwc2Qj5VrsjG11LSHRQQ/12/31679284/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/IMG_20150525_161426_Fotor.jpg/CLTGjQ8gASACIAMgBCAFIAYgBygBKAI/7_eAHH7kkmIUzywdP0bGOOZi8rePA8EvzI8xz_amH0c?size=1024x768&size_mode=2)
http://m.samsclub.com/ip/energizer-golf-cart-battery-group-size-gc2/prod6750008?navAction=push
Quote from: eagle19952 on June 30, 2015, 06:03:46 PM
TEMco seems to endorse this one...
If the crimps actually are as good as in the picture, they'll be fine. The reason I'm wary of them is because one of my non-original starter cables was made that way, and its lugs got noticeably warm when starting the engine - high currents through poor connections can be a big problem. There are also times that you simply cannot use a hammer crimper, such as when making cables in situ when you have to crimp the second lug on the end of the cable that's already run in place. I'm also curious what size of lug is pictured - can these crimpers make equally good crimps on all sizes and thicknesses? These crimpers are cheap enough that it's probably still worth buying one, even if only because it's fun to sometimes thwack the living snot out of things with a BFH. Besides, man is a tool-using animal, so the more tools we have . . .
John
Some thwack those hammer crimpers too much, others not enough. That's the big problem with them.
QuoteBrett, What are these?
http://m.samsclub.com/ip/energizer-golf-cart-battery-group-size-gc2/prod6750008?navAction=push (http://m.samsclub.com/ip/energizer-golf-cart-battery-group-size-gc2/prod6750008?navAction=push)
Brett, your link didn't work
I've got one of those hammer crimpers,
They do work good if you hit them just right ,,
What I've been doing is set it on my 20 ton shop press and mash it with the press ,,I get a good uniform press that way each time ,heavy duty heat shrink with adhesive seals the ends,
Also been looking at a new set of house batteries ,,Does anyone have any experience with the 8 volt golf cart batteries? would only need 6 instead of 8 and less cabling ,
Any pros or cons about the batteries ,,Pete
TEMco and others state 4 0000 cable with the hammer crimp.
I have both, the hammer and an adjustable... that way I don't lose any dies.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.temcoindustrialpower.com%2Fcontent%2Ftools%2Fth0012_step1.jpg&hash=7cfe0e1394fc93ec618633ba4b49dabe3967b9f6)
Hammer Crimp
Product features
Black oxide crimp ram won't chip or flake. If you've ever used a chrome-plated socket on an impact gun, you know how old style chrome-plated models can chip and peel.
In-stock, ready to ship.
Get it fast. Most orders received in 1-3 days.
Uses Hammer, Vise, or Press to apply crimping force.
Produces perfect, solid crimp terminations every time.
Designed for 8 Gauge through 0000 Gauge (4/0)
Perfect for battery and welder cables.
Use with all crimp terminal lugs, including heavy cast lugs.
5 Year Warranty from an American name. NON-GENERIC