Hey Guys,
Been pretty busy this spring. This is the first time since January that I've had any time to work on the bus.
I need to get the beltline fixed up and had a few questions -
Anyone have a part number for the rivets used on an Eagle Model 10 beltline?
Also - It looks like it used to be some kind of rubber gasket under the belt line. Do I need to replace that gasket or can I just use some 1" eternabond on the seam and button it back up?
If I need a specific rubber gasket ... what's the part number or where can I find it?
Thanks.
-Sean
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F15%2F06%2F20%2Fbdf91a730bed0b1f014c5bd360645bd8.jpg&hash=103592178d4989375696e522e563d18260ad89d5)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F15%2F06%2F20%2F64719167ef3956b8584a0a9252fc2312.jpg&hash=7cfbc64ab0797314cf0d1915ac7ab6e78f4388cf)
I use the Eternabond EB-6D020 with primer I buy it local at Best Materials in Phoenix buy the wider then trim it with a razor knife.
I use the scraps for each screw head if you don't seal the screw heads you are wasting your time because that is where the problem starts on a Eagle fwiw Best Materials will have the best price and you can order online,depends on what shape your belt line is in you may need to double the tape for a good seal
good luck
Are you saying to use screws to reattach ... like the drip rail ?
Perhaps a phillips head self drilling ? a bit over sized ?, and a counter sink bit ? ...stainless ?
My inquiring mind wants to know too :)
Sean's should be screwed on already you see them both ways but mostly S/S screws a few had rivets
Cliff - mine are rivets. Should I be using screws? I think Id prefer screws.
Quote from: Seangie on June 20, 2015, 11:45:13 AM
Cliff - mine are rivets. Should I be using screws? I think Id prefer screws.
Mine (below window line) are philips screwed, counter sunk... I saw where yours are rivets that's why I asked.
The lower belt to bay line is rivets. I think it is structural.
Rain drip is screwed, I have "tightened" it up with some hex head self tapping self drillers (not stainless).. but you really can't see them.
I'm thinking 2 inch wide would make a better seal/seat.
This outfit has free shipping over $300 and comparable price..
https://www.bigrocksupply.com/DoubleStick.html (https://www.bigrocksupply.com/DoubleStick.html)
The Phoenix outfit wanted 37$ shipping on 4 rolls (if double taping)
Thanks for posting, I need to reseal mine too :)
Sean, I use counter sunk S/S (oval) screws when I remove the belt line trim ,you cannot get behind it now to buck the factory rivet so you have to use a cap on the rivet or a shaved head and it's more trouble than it is worth using rivets plus the rivets leak.
I use a 1/4x1in and install a wide flange rivet in the existing holes and drill it out because most of the holes are going to be rusted out then the screws are tight,S/S screws don't cost that much if you buy in the box of 100 something like 6 to 10 bucks a box depending where you buy from
Sean, Fastenal may be your friend in finding the right size, length, and style of your screws, but they mark everything up. I was ordering rivets from them and saw the company logo and name on the box everytime I picked up my order. Finally contacted the company directly and they sent me the same rivets for literally half the cost. That being said, your Eagle is one of the cleanest I've seen in terms of lack of rust so you may not have to drill out your holes too much. I have worked with eternabond tape a ton during our conversion and I will say this: the stuff is awesome, but don't go so wide that you have a ton of extra because trimming it with a knife in warm weather isn't an easy task. And when you use it to seal the screws, your drill bit will get crazy nasty. The stuff is a blessing and a curse.....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Must have a little rust to pull the rivets with the trim IMO
Good point cliff...didn't catch that..