Our new to us 102C3 has a feature that we don't have in our mechanical 6v92 MCI 9. DDEC II status lights on the dash. Previous owner has done some wiring work for various issues (removing kneeling feature, installing electric air assist wipers etc) so I noticed three dash lights really dimly lit all the time:
Starter alert
Check trans (Allison 748 push button)
Stop engine
These are always dimly lit as if is just a grounding issue or something. The actual lights that are supposed to lite up like "parking brake lamps" etc are much brighter when lit. Do I ignore or chase down why the other three are constantly dimly lit up?
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this may sound like a smart @$# answer...but it isn't
it can only get worse left unattended too... ???
My gen light was dimly lit when i bought my 4106, and was like that for 15 years prior apparently.
Turns out the gen was rewired and not done properly causing it to cook batteries from erratic charging and created tons of starting issues.
I would say look into it for peace of mind to know you won't have any electrical fires from someone else's mistake/electrical skills.
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Eagle and Andy, thanks. I'll look into this more. Wasn't sure if it were typical in these old buses to see warning lights maybe dimly lit because of old wiring, but now you both are making me think I should chase this down. Thanks
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On an MC 7 I owned once, I had a couple of indicators that looked like that. It turned out that the sockets/bulbs had come out of the "hole" in the back of the indicator pack. One had partly melted the plastic. Turns out the partly glowing indicators were from a loose/hanging bulb. Other that than I would suspect a bulb ground issue.
Don & Sheila
Thanks Don. I already looked at the back behind the panel and they are seated properly. Next step is for me to see if the ATEC is throwing codes. I'll check fluid level too. Since the previous owner removed the kneeling feature, I figured the ATEC was fritzing because of that....
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Not sure what "starter alert" is though. I know cliff mentioned to dave rush (tikvah) a while back that "starter alert" meant one of the rear switches was flipped but mine are all in their correct positions to start coach from front. Honestly not worried about that one cause of those rear switches are thrown, she don't start. And that's the first thing I always check :) so, just need to figure out why "check trans" and "stop engine" lights are always on...
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You are probably going to find the problem where a splice was made or a pin is broken off inside a connector
When you press the test bulb switch are the lights the same brightness as the others?
Jack
When I press the test button the three lights in question actually go out and the entire right side panel of lights light up
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Did you try switching with other bulbs that you know burn bright to see if it may only be the bulb?
Now that I didn't do.... Hmmmmm
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I mixed up some of the warning light bulbs in my bus once. I had put 24 volt bulbs in the turn signal indicators which are supposed to be 12 volt so they were dim. I don't know if this will help you or not. I suspect a 102c3 would be pretty much all 24 volt bulbs, but what do I know?
Well, I know the instrument bulbs are 24..... The coach lighting headlights tail and brake and clearance and turn signals are 12 volt
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You have to be careful with the 12Volt lights on a MCI. They sometimes use a resistor to lower the voltage. If you try to use a 12 volt LED they will blow because they don't load the resistor. If you need a wiring diagram for your bus MCI will send you one by email. They will need the last 4 of the vin number.
Jack
I noticed about 12.8 volts going to the tail lamps, I assume that would
Be fine?
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Did you read the voltage with the bulb out of the socket?
Jack
Yes...was that bad?
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No that was good, I checked the voltage on my front turns with the bulb in and got 12 volts. When I replaced it with a LED the LED melted with the 24 volts. The 102C3 that I have has a resistor in line to drop the voltage. The LED didn't put any load so no drop in voltage.
Jack
Ok. Got it. I think I'm ok then because it was 12 volts without the bulb in so it must be true 12 volts. I want to upgrade to LED rear lights so this is good to know
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