I am looking at a high efficiency mini split ac to cool/ heat my GM 4106.
I am planning on running it off of a 220vac inverter with solar assist like the off grid tiny house guys do.
My GM 4106 will have 3.5" of closed cell spray foam and double pane argon insulated windows / skylights.
The biggest loss will be the front windshield / driver passenger side windows.
Any one have experience on what is the minimum BTU Mini Split for a GM 4106 in Florida?
I am looking at the fuji 33 SEER 9,000 BTU with possibly a second head in the bedroom area.
http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/wallmountedRLS3.htm (http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/wallmountedRLS3.htm)
As high as 33 seer. Would question that. I use 120 volt. Key factors. Inverter type--I like Toshiba compressors. I have 2ea 9,000 and a 12,000. Keep it simple. My 9,000 pull 6 amp at 120V constant.
33 seer > http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=most_efficient.me_cac_ashp (http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=most_efficient.me_cac_ashp)
Quote from: robertglines1 on June 14, 2015, 11:56:15 AM
As high as 33 seer. Would question that. I use 120 volt. Key factors. Inverter type--I like Toshiba compressors. I have 2ea 9,000 and a 12,000. Keep it simple. My 9,000 pull 6 amp at 120V constant.
You are using 2 x 9,000 + 12,000 in your bus? Are these split systems? If so what efficiency?
Most of the 120v units are low efficiency is why i am asking..
i think 3/4 ton will need to run full time to maintain any tolerable condition...imo etc.
15 seer verified. The requirements of local power company says 15 or better to qualify. Further research yielded most roof tops are unrated and if they were would be under 10. Asuli is a roof top in europe that uses inverter technology. The rest of the world has embraced the technology for 15 plus years. I have splits in house also. Both under 20 seer . they do a fantastic job. I like duplicate units in case on fails. After cooled down one 9,000 did maintain inside when it was high 90's outside in sun. 45 ft coach with tall ceilings plus 3 slides. Lots of extra insulation over the stock 2 inch Prevost foam from factory. Biggest problem people have had in is cracked fittings mostly at flares. I still would recommend 2 separate 9,00 units instead of one larger one. anchor the lines and units. Plus every where I could added more insulation to freon lines. Just paid $644 for 9000 delivered to house with line kit. 1 more thing use teflon paste to flare fittings to help in leak prevention. My only failure was a cracked flare that I did when I did flare. I have a total of 5 units running now. 31,000 btu cools our home with 2625 sq ft on main level also heats it. Bob
Thanks Bob - that is good information!
I will try it with one 9,000 BTU split but go ahead in build in a second line set in the bedroom incase a second 9k is needed.
The only mobile AC I have done I used flex adapters and mounted the AC on rubber mounts and so far no leaks or broken fittings > http://www.unisource-mfg.com/products/oneproduct.php?categoryid=50&productid=203 (http://www.unisource-mfg.com/products/oneproduct.php?categoryid=50&productid=203)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.unisource-mfg.com%2Fimages%2Finventory%2F203%2F1.jpg&hash=8ceab09fab6a079d17148ab435e7275777f3b507)
I'm thinking about installing a 24,000 btu mini split in our truck conversion. As a wise friend told me just recently, you can turn a large one down but you can't turn up a smaller one! Food for thought!
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Just that 208 or 220 will be required for anything over 12,000 that I have seen.If your races our like our tractor shows there is often 120 V 20 amp service available. our 24,000 208 V in house is prob 3ft Long and 16 inches high . The 9,000 is about 30 inches by 10 inches(inside unit). Been waiting for roof shaker in toter to quit so we can put split in it.
Too large a system may not run enough to dehumidify. So I've been told by my HVAC tech friend.
Ted
Ted, this is true for most a/c units. My dad has done a/c all his life in Arizona, and he has told me this. Rule is, match your tonnage to your needs. Buuuuut, modern mini splits (Fujitsu specifically) have a "dehumidify" feature that solves that problem. So, overbuying your btus isn't as much of an issue now. That being said, unless you purchase the higher end variable compressor units that actually wind up or down depending on the cooling needs, then you may be drawing more power than necessary.
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What some of the heat pumps do in dehumidify mode is to alternate between heating and cooling the air. I know that is what my Atwood RV heat pump seems to do when I have it in dry mode which is their name for dehumidifying.
Bob the 24,000 unit is 40.5x8.5x12.50 and it has a toshiba comp. it's powered by 220 which is ok because our races don't usually have hookups so the genset comes into play. Almost all campgrounds we go to are 50amp.
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LOL it's 108 degrees here in AZ @8PM and feels like a 102 with 11% humidity,starting Monday it's going to be 116 all week with 20% humidity.
You guys bring on the 9000 btu mini splits 2 or 3 if you don't roast like a hot dog by 2 PM I 'll jump on the mini split bandwagon.At 90 degrees I would not even worry with AC ;D
I am leaving town Mon am people will be ringing the phone off the hook with AC and generators problems. I have 67,500 btu's of AC and love every BTU when needed.
I had my son calculate the BTU's to cool a bus 8 ft wide,45 ft long and 6.5 high inside with normal insulation he came up with 31,470 btu per hr or 9,222 watts cooling from 90 degrees ambient temp to 75 degrees inside I checked him on a site and he is not far off
:) that's what I was told too! The more, the better. Besides you can always add more!
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There is nothing more miserable than a bus with marginal cooling, with cold weather you can add clothes BTDT
True story ^. Typically we've only seen 80-90 degrees ambient living in our bus. One summer we were in Wisconsin and it was 104 for a couple of weeks. Up until then, we only had one 13,500 BTU rooftop. It was doing the trick. Then those 100+ degree days showed up. Needless to say, we have two rooftops now. And that's plenty for our needs. But it's still 27,000 BTU combined. I can't figure out how you could go less than that and keep a bus cool in the summer heat.
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Mumsywumsy was not a happy camper this last weekend, only one air conditioner that wouldn't stay running in the day time because it would overheat and shut down.
Is lower cost to run the inverter types the only reason to buy one? Since it will only be run when I plug into power that I paid a flat fee for at a campground, what makes the difference? My understanding is that they run all the time, just at different levels, do they always put out cool air just different amounts? That does seem like it would be a plus.
Bob, where did you get your latest one at that price?
Just as a rough guess would two 9's cool this? Mounted on very front and rear walls. Forty feet long, 1 inch Styrofoam in walls, 1/2 inch in ceiling, 2 inch in floor?
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi69.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi79%2Fsomewhereinusa%2FOur%2520bus%2Fweb-bus-rt-side7266.jpg&hash=cd99eabe9fba9e7a9e789af060a51b4379681c93) (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/somewhereinusa/media/Our%20bus/web-bus-rt-side7266.jpg.html)
Dick
All I know is 3 (14,000) Cruisair's running at peak will get you hot in my coach on anything over 95 degrees days. Gotta have a fan handy for sure. Put a 2 ton Mitsubishi Mini in my man cave last summer and that thing is solid. How do you duct the exhaust air on the condensing unit from bus bay?
The mini's have their own fan and their vented through a louvered or screen door on a bay door
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If you'll notice, most motorhomes are back to using roof tops. They are relatively cheap, easy to replace. I have three 13,500btu old style Colemans that have been flawless for over 20 years. Not as quiet as I'd like, but the performance out weighs the noise. I use two going down the road.
Mini-Splits sound good on paper, but are a bugger to work on. And how do you replace one on the road? Roof tops, any RV supply store will have them. Good Luck, TomC
Quote from: TomC on June 15, 2015, 07:41:33 AM
If you'll notice, most motorhomes are back to using roof tops. They are relatively cheap, easy to replace. I have three 13,500btu old style Colemans that have been flawless for over 20 years. Not as quiet as I'd like, but the performance out weighs the noise. I use two going down the road.
Mini-Splits sound good on paper, but are a bugger to work on. And how do you replace one on the road? Roof tops, any RV supply store will have them. Good Luck, TomC
I have a commercial/residential AC system, Once AC techs get past the idea that it is planted in a bus, I have no trouble finding a repair person.
RV AC tech's seem much harder to find (based on my experiance with others in parks) that actually know what they are doing. Mobile RV techs seem to do rooftop AC's as an after thought...
i am all in favor of some type of non rv rooftop AC.
Tom I like the rooftops on my bus but in the case of my truck I don't have enough clearance on top of the box so I have no other choice than to go with a mini split or a cruise air type AC unit.
The minisplits seem to be cheap enough that they're almost comparable to a rooftop that when one goes bad you can almost afford to replace it rather than repair it.
This ads a new twist to the plot..
I have a friend who is using a 48V DC mini split.
I was planning on having a 48V battery bank anyway.
It would be pretty cool to be able to run the AC even if for limited duration without shore power or generator.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Home-off-grid-dc-compressor-48V_60161414956.html (http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Home-off-grid-dc-compressor-48V_60161414956.html)
I will not lead anyone down the mini-split road! Just hate noise of roof tops. It really screws my hearing up. I have a vacum pump and recharge kit ($65) that comes with fittings and gauges. I do my own hvac work. I have 3 separate units so if I loose one there is backup. Total 30,000 btu. Bus in shop today 96 F outside I turned 1-9 and 12 on 45 minutes later they we cycling at 72 F inside. Not for the weak at heart ...No comparison in noise factor...It is a busnut thing to do different. I swore off discussing them in public forum because of mixed results by others. I like them enough I now own 5. Bus was first now have 2 in house.
Ace-the same reason I converted two Duo-therm Penguins (roof top 15,000btu cool only units) to basement. But, as I understand from Clifford, the Penguins have been cheapened up. For A/C in the cab, I bought a Duo-therm basement 8,500btu cool/heat unit (heating coil). I think with 38,500btu of cooling, I'll be fine considering as I'm working on it now, I have a 10,000btu portable for A/C that keeps it cool enough to work in. Good Luck, TomC
Two questions:
1. TomC, I've seen/heard of people converting roof tops to basement units. Is there something more than fancy ductwork to make this work? Can you elaborate?
2. Concerning mini splits flanges cracking or coming loose, is there a way to just solder all the copper connections to prevent connection leaks? I don't know much about HVAC, so maybe I'm being naive here.
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Scott, you can solder these inline at the unit to keep the lines from cracking due to vibration ( http://www.unisource-mfg.com/products/oneproduct.php?categoryid=50&productid=203 (http://www.unisource-mfg.com/products/oneproduct.php?categoryid=50&productid=203) ) . In addition if you mount your unit on Isolators it will last much much longer ( http://www.vibrationmounts.com/Products2.htm (http://www.vibrationmounts.com/Products2.htm) )
Not to throw this off the rails but I am planning on using a 48VDC 12K BTU DC compressor + a Vintage Air IV Magnum in the dash of the bus for driver AC/Heat/Defrost.
Im starting to wonder if this ( or a second one) could be used as a primary AC if the bus was insulated well enough.
http://www.masterflux.com/ (http://www.masterflux.com/)
http://www.vintageair.com/2014catalog/Pages%20from%202014%20VintageAir%20Cat%20rev%208-15%2044.pdf (http://www.vintageair.com/2014catalog/Pages%20from%202014%20VintageAir%20Cat%20rev%208-15%2044.pdf)
It seems the Masterflux would be an option for use with the OTR driver a/c unit. Interesting.
Yes that is one of its uses.
SIERRA Compressor
• Robust rotary design ideally suited for mobile & transport applications
• 400-15,000 Btu/h (114-4,400W) capacity range
ALPINE Compressor
• 11,000-34,000 Btu/h (3,200-10,000W) capacity range
http://www.masterflux.com/userimages/Brochure/MX_Catalog.pdf (http://www.masterflux.com/userimages/Brochure/MX_Catalog.pdf)
Quote from: robertglines1 on June 15, 2015, 12:26:45 PM
I will not lead anyone down the mini-split road! Just hate noise of roof tops. It really screws my hearing up. I have a vacum pump and recharge kit ($65) that comes with fittings and gauges. I do my own hvac work. I have 3 separate units so if I loose one there is backup. Total 30,000 btu. Bus in shop today 96 F outside I turned 1-9 and 12 on 45 minutes later they we cycling at 72 F inside. Not for the weak at heart ...No comparison in noise factor...It is a busnut thing to do different. I swore off discussing them in public forum because of mixed results by others. I like them enough I now own 5. Bus was first now have 2 in house.
Sorry for the late reply, but I had a thought today when looking at the dimensions of Fujitsu RL2 series 12K 115V minisplit condensers - can you mount them canted over at about 45 degrees from vertical, or do they only work when vertical? The reason I'm asking is because I have an almost-perfect space under the bus for the condenser, but it's less high than the condenser's 22" height. All the installation specs I've read don't mention anything about needing to be vertical, or is that just automatically assumed?
Thanks, John
If the compressor is in there, you may have issues with compressor oiling if off level.
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Rubber (or synthetic) Hoses have been used in ac systems for years.
Been thinking About rotating compressor 90 degree for yrs. from others more knowledgeable that I why not/ I just have 1 many projects to do to try. Also not interested I developing new product . FWIW have friend that uses a box fan to aid in condenser air flow.
Guys
With regard to the masterflux and the vintage air, they may not be big enough capacity for you. I previously looked at those but discounted them for driver's air and heat. The reason for me was my prevost has a driver's a/c of 44K BTU and heat of 38K BTU neither of which the masterflux or vintage air could supply. This maybe overkill but that is what prevost engineered when my bus was built in 1991. Would be nice to know if this much capacity is really needed. I know there is a way to figure it but not sure how. Don't know what you need for the 4106 or other buses.
Rob
91 Prevost
Missouri
Quote from: Darkspeed on June 16, 2015, 09:11:20 AM
Yes that is one of its uses.
SIERRA Compressor
• Robust rotary design ideally suited for mobile & transport applications
• 400-15,000 Btu/h (114-4,400W) capacity range
ALPINE Compressor
• 11,000-34,000 Btu/h (3,200-10,000W) capacity range
http://www.masterflux.com/userimages/Brochure/MX_Catalog.pdf (http://www.masterflux.com/userimages/Brochure/MX_Catalog.pdf)
Has anyone priced these components. I thought that Red Dot looked good for some special purpose units until I looked at the price tag.
Red Dot components are easy to find used, they are in heavy equipment,farm equipment,off road vehicles you name it you will find the Red Dot units
I purchased a complete unit even had the hoses from a farm implement dealer once still in the box for 500 bucks lol I never did install the unit finally sold it for what I paid
Quote from: Oonrahnjay on July 01, 2015, 06:38:37 AM
Has anyone priced these components. I thought that Red Dot looked good for some special purpose units until I looked at the price tag.
you can contact Vintage Air http://www.vintageair.com/ (http://www.vintageair.com/) they use the Sierra DC Compressors with their Universal AC systems they could give you a complete kit price.
My plan it do this for in dash air conditioning and run it off my battery bank.
The published an article on DC hot rod AC > http://www.vintageair.com/Tech%20Articles/Electric%20Compressors/Electric%20Compressors.pdf (http://www.vintageair.com/Tech%20Articles/Electric%20Compressors/Electric%20Compressors.pdf)
So, I'm getting ready to mount my condensers, should I mount it solid or use some sort of rubber isolator? They came with some rubber feet that you bolt through, but that wouldn't really isolate it unless I use some sort of rubber under the bolt head too.
Quote from: somewhereinusa on July 17, 2015, 06:39:44 AM
So, I'm getting ready to mount my condensers, should I mount it solid or use some sort of rubber isolator? They came with some rubber feet that you bolt through, but that wouldn't really isolate it unless I use some sort of rubber under the bolt head too.
The condenser should always be mounted on isolators if used in a vehicle to isolate the condenser from the vehicle harmonics which can cause fatigue failure in the unit - as told to me by an ac engineer.
He also said the lineset connection to the unit should have a short flexible section to allow the condenser and the line set to move / vibrate independent of each other.
Will it work without these two items .. yes, but he said it will last a lot longer with them.
I have done two ac units this way and both have been in operation for an extended period of time.
The isolators he suggested need to be:
1. Low durometer - soft
2. Captured - so in a hard stop / collision your condenser stays put.
This would be a good place to start on isolators > Extreme-Temperature Bolt-Down Vibration-Damping Mounts on http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-vibration-damping-mounts/=y3brr6 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-vibration-damping-mounts/=y3brr6)
I'm leaning toward two LG Mini Splits. A smaller one for the bedroom and a larger one mounted up front. The question I have is when I remove the OTR AC compressor in the back, would there be enough air movement in the engine compartment for one or would it be too hot and inefficient?
Bruce
Man, I don't know about you, but when I open the side door engine compartments in our buses, it's stinking hot in there...I can't imagine that would be good for the unit...
Quote from: Scott Bennett on July 17, 2015, 02:35:15 PM
Man, I don't know about you, but when I open the side door engine compartments in our buses, it's stinking hot in there...I can't imagine that would be good for the unit...
Sort of what I was questioning but when the bus is moving there should be sufficient air movement. I'll have to figure out how hot it actually gets in there. I suppose I could partition off an area back there? It's just such a great place with tons of room.
Bruce
I know many do not like the look of roof top airs. But-they are the most efficient way to get cold into the bus. We have 3-13,500btu Colemans. Since I don't have dash air (the transmission did not have the PTO for A/C, nor room for the compressor on the engine), I mounted the front roof top towards the front. Have the front half aimed down at the driver's seat and also have a 12v dash fan blowing on me. Have always been comfortable when driving with the roof tops running off the Diesel generator. Roof tops are easy to service, but more noisy. Good Luck, TomC
Prznbus the four units in my bays are vented through the floor and sealed off from the rest of the bay, the heat has no effect on them.
Quote from: digesterman on July 18, 2015, 06:56:56 AM
Prznbus the four units in my bays are vented through the floor and sealed off from the rest of the bay, the heat has no effect on them.
I was talking about mounting them in the rear engine bay where the factory AC compressor was.
Bruce
Sorry I see Scott had mentioned the heat in the bays
Prizn, you know, it's funny though that you mention how that space could be so useful. I've often thought about partitioning it off and insulating it from engine heat. The only issue I think we should try to solve is a way to have the "compartment" partition swing open or removable because when you need to service the engine, you need access on both sides. If you are forced to take your partition apart or remove the minisplit every time you want to change the starter or anything else, that would be drama
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I got the rear unit operational yesterday and couldn't be happier. Still have some final dressing up to do. It wasn't really all that hot yesterday, but I did get the bedroom down to 65 in a couple of hours. It was cool enough this morning to test the heat, made it toasty in the back. This thing is QUIET, if nothing else is making any noise, when I first start it up, I get a sense of the outside unit more than being able to hear it. When it's running the only thing I can hear is the inside fan, which is very quiet. It blows very cold or hot depending on the setting.
I hooked up my Kil-a-watt, on start up it VERY slowly climbs to 7.3 amps, then falls to 2 to 3. I just checked and while on high heat it was at 10 for a few seconds then fell again.
Condenser unit mounted in original condenser space. I will put the original screen and trim back on. The frame is the original, that never seemed to have been damaged, I also mounted a second rock guard in front. (the white one)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi69.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi79%2Fsomewhereinusa%2FwebRearCondensor5815_zpsyfwvcxtd.jpg&hash=ddb742e8c4e6edf6d0e642bac688e329a33b5d0f) (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/somewhereinusa/media/webRearCondensor5815_zpsyfwvcxtd.jpg.html)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi69.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi79%2Fsomewhereinusa%2FwebConnections5820_zpsbfczjlu9.jpg&hash=3310331ab4f5203bd8b488c784ba0d164197db00) (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/somewhereinusa/media/webConnections5820_zpsbfczjlu9.jpg.html)
There was no way I could get the larger line routed around all of the corners, I tried, without kinking. The smaller of the rubber refrigerant lines from the original factory air was the right size, so I had new flair ends put on it and it worked perfectly, I'm hoping this will also alleviate the problems some have had with line breakage, the 1/4 inch line is much more forgiving. I then insulated the rubber line. When I pulled a vacuum, I was a bit surprised to find that it stayed exactly all night, I figured it would change some because of the temperature change. The sun was shining on it when I did it and it was cool the next morning.
The condensate tray on the evaporator had provisions for a drain at either end so I put a T in and used them both. I painted the inside unit so it wasn't that ugly white, I may do some sort of enclosure to hide it later.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi69.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi79%2Fsomewhereinusa%2Fwebinside5812_zpsajuh9lgh.jpg&hash=e6d5ca5e0ba214260390e4882ebc8f7c123a50ce) (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/somewhereinusa/media/webinside5812_zpsajuh9lgh.jpg.html)
I'm a little concerned about how the feet are fastened to the body, just two spot welds. I also made an upper mount to help control movement at the top, hoping to reduce stress on the bottom feet. I made the bottom rubber mounts more to keep from crushing the feet when I bolted it down than anything else.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi69.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi79%2Fsomewhereinusa%2FwebMountingPad5823_zpse3f9xa3z.jpg&hash=e42460a523ed7a5a85fbb74bc6121841fafa2430) (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/somewhereinusa/media/webMountingPad5823_zpse3f9xa3z.jpg.html)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi69.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi79%2Fsomewhereinusa%2FwebFootDetail5819_zpsze8p23lr.jpg&hash=7f4aca1e740069b3ba7a3dda868da26848135a15) (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/somewhereinusa/media/webFootDetail5819_zpsze8p23lr.jpg.html)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi69.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi79%2Fsomewhereinusa%2FwebTopMount5822_zpsujxxagqe.jpg&hash=a236e151831da96b8f66f08cf36226c01a8311c3) (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/somewhereinusa/media/webTopMount5822_zpsujxxagqe.jpg.html)
Only time will tell if this was really a good installation, but right now I am extremely pleased.
Dick
Hi Dick, looks good!
You said you used one of the old rubber lines? Was the old system R12? 134A?
Not to freak you out but a lot of the rubber R12/134A lines wont survive R-410A chemical / higher pressure.
You may want to check the part number on the rubber hose and find out.
R-410A can have a high side pressure of 410+ psi and a low side 130+
R-12 is less than half that.
R-410A hoses have a burst rate of 4000psi and a operational rate of 800psi.
The good news is you are using a R12? high pressure side hose as the low pressure side hose of an R-410A system so it may last longer than expected.
How do guys handle the water those mini splits are so efficient removing the humidity,the complaint I hear from 2 friends that have those is the water problem dripping or blowing from the evaporator and yes they have the drains hooked up going to the bottom of the bus
Going to be interesting how good the unit in the photo works picking up 140 degree heat from blacktop mount that low
Quote from: luvrbus on August 07, 2015, 08:00:21 AM
How do guys handle the water those mini splits are so efficient removing the humidity,the complaint I hear from 2 friends that have those is the water problem dripping or blowing from the evaporator and yes they have the drains hooked up going to the bottom of the bus
Going to be interesting how good the unit in the photo works picking up 140 degree heat from blacktop mount that low
luvrbus, I think the reason people are blowing condensate is they are not mounting the unit on a flat wall. If you tilt them forward like the curvature of a buss shell then they dont drain properly and water pools in the condensate catch. Also im sure they have a convoluted path for the drain line causing some restriction.
They have no problems with condensation when parked only when traveling and running the units
Quote from: Darkspeed on August 07, 2015, 07:18:53 AM
You said you used one of the old rubber lines? Was the old system R12? 134A?
Not to freak you out but a lot of the rubber R12/134A lines wont survive R-410A chemical / higher pressure.
You may want to check the part number on the rubber hose and find out.
R-410A can have a high side pressure of 410+ psi and a low side 130+
R-12 is less than half that.
R-410A hoses have a burst rate of 4000psi and a operational rate of 800psi.
I'm pretty hard to freak out, good information, if it fails, I'll know where to start looking.
I know R-410A is supposed to be non toxic but i dont know what effect a leak would have on a bus of sleeping campers? Just something to think about..
I'm glad someone else is experimenting with this. Do tell us how it works longer term. We have already made up our minds to install mini splits in our new bus. the only difference is we won't use the interior units. They are huge and ugly. I will buy the ducted mini split units and duct them throughout the coach. Still quiet, just better air dispersion and no massive inside unit.
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I been reading about these units seems like condensation can be a problem,the better units have shut offs for high levels of condensation and they sell pumps to compensate for it.
I have a pump for a mini split I tried to giveaway here , as I had no idea what it was for after reading I see the pump is a kit wired to the Mitsubishi or other units.
Lol when you live in AZ the AC is a very important part of your everyday life I am sure if anybody can work it out you guys can
I have used mini splits in mobile applications and I have never had an issue with water / condensation. I always upsize the drain tube to account for bends in the run. The most important thing is to elbow the end of the drain tube and aim it towards the back of the bus / truck so it functions like an eductor when the vehicle is in motion. If you just blunt cut it at the bottom of the vehicle it will create eddies of air in the end of the tube which can keep it from draining or forbid aim it toward the front of the bus which created a positive pressure in the drain tube causing water to blow out of the head unit when in motion..
LOL my friends found out real fast you don't use the clear tubing that came with the unit for drains that stuff will grow tomatoes on the inside
I got the front air conditioner finished today, ;D it's not really all that hot today, but they cool things down nicely.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi69.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi79%2Fsomewhereinusa%2FOur%2520bus%2FwebFrontEvaporator5845_zpsvlcd7ts7.jpg&hash=9288f2e7d26026ce23f231882e2691cde181d799) (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/somewhereinusa/media/Our%20bus/webFrontEvaporator5845_zpsvlcd7ts7.jpg.html)
The condensor is nestled between the frame rails in front, not sure if I will have to do some extra ducting to get the air flow right. These things don't really seem to move all that much air, even when things are running hard after the initial slow start. Time will tell. Have I mentioned how QUIET they are?
This view is from in front of the right front tire, pretty open to the fan, there is quite a bit of air movement out this general direction.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi69.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi79%2Fsomewhereinusa%2FOur%2520bus%2FwebFrontCondensor5831_zpsljvrb0mm.jpg&hash=30a0e08a36e28bb08a6404fe04cd1510dba7996d) (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/somewhereinusa/media/Our%20bus/webFrontCondensor5831_zpsljvrb0mm.jpg.html)
Same side viewed from the front.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi69.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi79%2Fsomewhereinusa%2FOur%2520bus%2FwebFrontCondensor5828_zpstcl1rfx9.jpg&hash=423a32ac053945195fd69dce20aab07a79ca6874) (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/somewhereinusa/media/Our%20bus/webFrontCondensor5828_zpstcl1rfx9.jpg.html)
Other side viewed from the front. It doesn't hang down as far as the front entry step and is farther back.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi69.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi79%2Fsomewhereinusa%2FOur%2520bus%2FwebFrontCondensor5825_zpsqf4e3yhv.jpg&hash=95ff26ed3a1a01f6c198e27479dd270bec624767) (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/somewhereinusa/media/Our%20bus/webFrontCondensor5825_zpsqf4e3yhv.jpg.html)
I was able to use the larger copper line this time, I slit the insulation lengthwise, then but it back on after I had it installed. Looking back I probably should have done this onthe rear installation. With the insulation on I couldn't get a good "feel" when I was bending the line and kinked it. I also didn't plan well enough for the line routing in the rear and changed it a number of times. I would recommend using some sort of hose for a test fit to see if your routing is what you really want. If I have trouble with the rubber hose in the back I may go the same route. Lines go around the windshield on right side. Overall I am quite pleased with the whole thing. Measuring the power required to run, they could both be run on one 20A circuit. Only time will tell if things hold up in the bus environment.
Looks good!
As I understand your captions, it seems the lines are facing the front of the coach. I'm the paranoid type and would probably construct some sort of guard around the front of the installation to protect from possible road debris. Just a thought.
There is a guard, just not in place in the picthre. I've been thinking about making a larger one though.
How do guys lower the head pressure on a Fujitsu and what type fan would you use.I have friend his air intake is from the bottom of the bay and they are supposed to work with a ambient temperature of 120 degrees.
They do fine parked on gravel but won't work will driving in the AZ heat.Could it be the vacuum created by driving over powers the condenser fan we tried to buy a larger motor to no avail he is stuck with his motor.FWIW his will kick out even parked on blacktop at 117 degrees he went through that all last week having to soak the area with water around his bus
luvrbus, I helped install one of these on a mobile split as a supplement (1870 cubic feet per minute)> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBP5A6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=6WD6XSYQYTIJ&coliid=I2QOD11WZMOI8D (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBP5A6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=6WD6XSYQYTIJ&coliid=I2QOD11WZMOI8D)
You may need a puller or pusher depending on application - sounds like a swarm of bees but it did the trick.
The OEM split fan is not designed for any static positive / neg pressure caused by a moving vehicle.
That is what we have on the units now they help but he would like 120v fans
Quote from: luvrbus on August 23, 2015, 07:48:54 AM
That is what we have on the units now they help but he would 120v fans
You tried a Spal high pressure fan? or just some aux fan?
Are you saying he need a 120vac solution?
If 120vac he could use a big squirrel cage fan on the exit side of the unit.
I use a 10 " fan like this with a dimmer switch to control the speed
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00070KIFK?psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00070KIFK?psc=1)
ducted after the split unit then through the floor . works great and has for years
dave