My Grandparents converted a Silver Eagle bus in the 80's. Put in a re-manufactured 8v71T and an automatic transmission. Drove it about 3000 miles and then it was parked. They started it for a time (until the batteries went bad) and they moved to a condo in another state. Grandpa now has Alzheimer to some degree and I'm left to figure out what to do with the bus. We had it towed to a storage facility for now. First time working with a diesel engine. I am not familiar with all of the controls required to start this beast. While I am not a mechanic by trade I can rebuild a gas engine and an automatic transmission.
It looks like it could be started from just the back using just this panel?https://www.dropbox.com/s/muraiw83acenmwo/Engine%20Panel%20Crop.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/muraiw83acenmwo/Engine%20Panel%20Crop.jpg?dl=0) What do these controls do? Starting from top to bottom? Do I need to do anything at the front of the bus? When it was towed (about a mile from where it was parked) the driver pulled one of the drive axles out. Is it okay to start with that pulled? How can I tell if the transmission is in neutral or park? I am assuming that it is an open differential so the bus shouldn't go anywhere with the axle out. But, I would hate to mess up the anything else by having it rotate without the axle in place.
Many projects to do to get it up to par. Some of the cabinet doors will require some work as the glue dried out. Some rivets on the sheeting have failed. It is a pretty daunting project and while I am capable of most of the things myself I don't want to end up upside down with repair bills. Any advice is appreciated. Here are the pics I have so far.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pfzr1hyqgx3z4xi/AADFHHRgttpGALK3h64GgDJca?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pfzr1hyqgx3z4xi/AADFHHRgttpGALK3h64GgDJca?dl=0)
STOP!!!! Don't turn that engine over with 20 year old fuel in it. You're gonna have to drain that somehow and the oil will have to be changed as well. I wouldn't do anything with that until after you've done those two things. If you just want to see if it will run, change the oil, replace and reprime the filters with fresh diesel and run it using a five gallon bucket as your fuel supply line. If you suck what's in those filters into that engine you will be sorry you did.
Best advice I've got
Rick
Your bus is a model 01.
Someone will be able to give you some history if you post the serial/VIN #.
Those are your battery master switches. without new batteries can't say much other than they are in the on position.
In all likelihood, you would need the key on the dash in the on position to negate any obligatory shut downs in order to start in the rear.
The toggle in the picture may be a rear start sw. if it is a momentary spring loaded type, I am not positive as so many conversions are not "stock"
There are more than a few 'busnuts" in Oregon.
There is every possibility in the world that your motor is "unharmed" 20 years idle, DD's are resilient.
You/I would not try to run the fuel that is in it nor the fuel filters.
Re priming them will be your first "hard" lesson.
Were I you I would do a complete suspension inspection before I put a dime in it.
There are a few Eagle Facebook pages that will also become an asset if you are FB savvy.
PS Nice Coach any idea who did the conversion ?
Just please please please video the startup!
Always great to hear old diesels come to life again!
Before one of the other members chimes in with one of our frequent suggestions, please add your location (see my signature line as an example). It's quite possible one of our members lives close enough to give you a hand -- one of the great things about the folks on this board.
Arthur
I completely agree about the fuel being very suspect. But ... would one be able to save a buck by first having the oil analysed before dumping it? It might be full of smog monsters and cooties ... or it may just need new oil filters?
Also I would inspect EVERYTHING in and under the Bus Conversion. This would include looking inside the intake and exhaust systems. Probably also a close inspection of the various belts and hoses might be a good idea.
As far as the coolant, again take a sample and have it analysed. Anti freeze is spendy. All you may have to do is change the coolant filters. As far as the actual start up, make sure the rack is in the "stop" position first.
Then consider placing a strain on the starter and new batters cranking the engine up for about 30 seconds or so or until the oil pressure gage shows that the engine has been "pre lubricated" before firing the old girl up.
Hope this helps some. It might be fairly cheap to get the Bus Conversion running. Also good advice about the suspension and other specific stuff. Might be a good idea to find a Bus mechanic with specific knowledge. HB of CJ (old coot)
Went down and investigated a bit more, the toggle seems to head off towards the generator panel but, it goes into a loom about half way there. Checked the fuel level to see how much would have to be drained and of course....full....right to the top. I'll need to find some barrels. Fuel looks and smells like diesel. I need to take a day to clean up all the battery terminals and pick up some batteries for it...out of time for this week. Thanks for the feedback. I am in Albany Oregon.
Wondering some more about that 20 year old diesel fuel. It would probably be high sulfur which is bad. Even it it checks out OK, the legalities of being caught with stinky fuel probably would not be worth the risk.
But ... having said this, a hundred plus gallons of fuel is still very expensive. Before I would dump it, is there any way it could also be analyzed? Does it have any value? Dunno. Can it be filtered? Bartered? HB
I wouldn't worry to much about the old fuel,get sample kits from a Cat dealer and take samples of the fuel and oil, real diesel didn't go bad all that much if it is bad someone in your area can come out and polish it or you can do with a house water filter and a 12 volt pump
Your biggest concern is going to be if the racks are frozen pull the valve covers to be sure they are free they should move freely by hand and turn the engine over by hand to be sure the plungers on the injectors are not stuck in the down position
Diesel fuel doesn't go stale like gasoline does. With a full tank, the moisture and or algae in it is probably negligible. I would run it with it. Just have a couple of sets of fuel filters with you. Take the valve covers off to make sure the injector racks are free and can return to no fuel position. Oil doesn't go stale either, I would start it with the oil that is in it, unless it looks really bad. You can change the oil shortly after. Make sure it is getting air (birds nest in air intake?). I would also take the oil feed to the turbo off and fill it with oil, then replace oil line. You don't want to run the turbo dry. I wouldn't fuss with it too much, just start it.
JC
PS I see luvrbus typed at the same time as me and is saying basically the same thing.
Over the years I have read many "start up after sitting for years" stories. It always amazes me how many of them are fine and the new owner just takes off on a 1500 mile trip home in the thing. If there is a fuel wholesaler near by you might be able to tell something about the fuel condition if you can get them to do a flash test on it. If you can find a bus nut in your area they would probably love to come assist. There is a wealth of info from the members on this board. Good luck and keep us posted!
I too would not worry about the fuel, especially at 3 bucks a gallon; use it. You might crack the plug in the bottom of the tanks to see if any water comes out, but other than that, change filters, check for stuck injectors like luvrbus says, and go for it. I would also crack the pan plug and have a sample tested. FWIW, I recently started a 6-71 with 30 year old fuel, sitting without moving and burned every drop of it without a problem.
now knowing the tank is full i am less concerned... does the coach have a generator....try starting it first. :)
We started one that had been setting for 15 years without any problem. The only thing we did was confirm that the rack was not stuck.
Good luck.
Tom Caffrey
I'm the "see if it is seized, make sure the injectors aren't stuck, and crank it" camp. May not even have to prime the fuels system!
Brian
Just know how to shut it down if for some reason it wants to run away, know where the air or fuel shut off is just in case
We have a board to cover the air inlet in case of runaway. I will try to find someone to test the fuel.
In this part of Oregon, we don't have to deq/EPA test for licensing. So I don't think the fuel smoking a little is an issue. If the injectors are still working like before, it never had an issue with excessive smoke.
The speedometer/odometer on the dash shows 3347 miles. I believe that it was new when the engine was remanufactured. While there is some surface rust on the engine there are no oil leaks visible.
I still need to find some batteries. Still can't look at it until next week.
I found the Detroit Diesel v71 service manual in the bus so I have some reading to do.
There is a video on Utube starting an 8V-71 compressor after 20 years. Lots of cranking (get new batteries), lots of white smoke, then just started as though was running yesterday. Old high sulphur fuel just doesn't go bad easily. I had the fuel in my truck polished after 10 years. Make sure the rack is loose, put in new batteries and try it out.. Good Luck, TomC
What we have here, is a wonderful opportunity, should you accept the challenge. Too bad about grandpa's health, but I bet he'd be thrilled to see you
bring that bird back to life.
Quote from: gumpy on June 05, 2015, 03:53:43 PM
What we have here, is a wonderful opportunity, should you accept the challenge. Too bad about grandpa's health, but I bet he'd be thrilled to see you
bring that bird back to life.
Ditto
Managed to get a couple of Group 31 batteries. Cleaned all the terminals and had to replace one of the battery cut-off switches because a nut was stripped. Replaced the ignition switch ($10.00 from O'reilly Auto Parts with 4 keys) as it was cheaper than having the locksmith make a key. Had my son get at the back of the engine and be ready with a board in case of runaway. He was also told to video the start. I was expecting this to be a real pain to start...hit the key and it started before my son could start the video. He said it didn't turn 3 cranks and it was going. One puff of black smoke about 4 feet and then no smoke at all. As far as I can tell it runs like new. https://www.dropbox.com/s/7jb3sypctg1ylh7/20150622_150836.mp4?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/7jb3sypctg1ylh7/20150622_150836.mp4?dl=0) Idled right down to 600 rpm and was rock steady. I didn't run it very long as the gauges weren't working. So I have video of it about 5 seconds after it started and then then we restarted it about 10 minutes later to see where an oil leak was coming from. Had to shut it off with a board because it didn't turn off with the key. How is it supposed to shut off?
Second video is shorter but it includes the whole start sequence. https://www.dropbox.com/s/xaz0hpgjzt9m9xl/20150622_152757.mp4?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/xaz0hpgjzt9m9xl/20150622_152757.mp4?dl=0)
This is off the side of the Allison 5 speed transmission. Not sure what model it is. Anyone know what the part hanging from the red cable does? what it's called? https://www.dropbox.com/s/gvbq0dbjnx8d856/Transmission.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/gvbq0dbjnx8d856/Transmission.jpg?dl=0)It looks like it was threaded to the transmission and it pumps tranny fluid out of the hole that it went into quite efficiently. Whats the best way to get to the transmission? I'm not a small guy so I need to figure out the easiest way in. Pull a tire from the tag axle?
I am also having a heck of a time trying to find the VIN. Grandparents can't find the title so I need find it to get the title transferred.
? is your grandad Steve DeMarco,the VIN should be on a weld plate either on the cross brace above the bumper or on a up right brace on the passengers side
luvrbus - Sent you an e-mail.
Had to shut it off with a board because it didn't turn off with the key. How is it supposed to shut off?
an eagle shuts down normally with an air activated slave on the governor.
it needs a minimum of 30 psi.
next time charge the air system with a portable compressor.
start from the rear.
the key switch often has also a secondary run switch toggle...it must be on too.
show a picture of your dash and switches.
I'm pretty sure I agree with the above post, it won't shut off until you build some air pressure. The shutoff air cylinder needs air pressure to shut off.
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You need (also) to build/make/bend a 1/8" or 3/16" rod about 2" long and learn which lever on top of the governor is the fuel shut off, where to hook it and how it works.
Probably as important as the air suffocater board...maybe more.