I have been wanting to convert my wipers to electric for a long time my pass has not worked for years and it finally started leaking so conversion on.
I have seen a few on here and they have did a good job of it but I think people need more details. So after 3 days of rev eng and cad I have chosen a design
that I think most diy can do. I will post part# and drawings as I go, just bear with me it is summer and I have a lot of camping to do so I might not get this done till fall. this is my first post so please bare with me. this is not a post about air verses electric this is for the diy people how wants eletric. the design I chose uses 3 x 3 x.125 box tubbing 13" long
her is the layout this is just a rough form once I build and fit it I will post the box tubing drawing
Quote from: doublee on May 28, 2015, 05:53:59 AMher is the layout this is just a rough form once I build and fit it I will post the box tubing drawing
Hey, EE, looks like you have a good setup but do you need the rigidity of a 1/8th" thick square tube? I'd think a thinner "U" (3" X 1/4" x .074 thick) would be plenty and it would save "lots" of weight.
I need a little help pics are to big to share?
when its a done it will be swiss cheese I used the box because it is easy to get for every one and the box make it easy for drill press work
my design I had that liked the best and was the lightest the diy would have to outsource it all and I just wanted to keep it simple for everyone
Everyday when I look at the wiper set up on my Humvee's it sure seems like those would work on a bus without much work involved
new wiper motor
the old wiper was all most froze up in the pivot and had broken the pivot of from the bracket I had to tack weld it back on to rev eng
cut out old pivot and removed bushings and seal decided it was to rusty to reuse and made a new stainless one and ordered new rulan bushing and square o-ring from McMaster-carr will be here tomorrow I may need to make a new shaft but that will have to wait
here is the 3" box tubing housing had to weld in a pc of 1 x 1 3/4 x 4" angle to support pivot. tubing still needs more trimming after seeing it machined
well it was going to good I did not realize that I grabbed the drivers side model when I programmed the mill I have been working on the pass side.
so it looks like I will be making the pass side next week. I wasn't going to do the driver side until I winterized it and could pull it out and make sure it was a mirror image.
new bushings are here they will work just fine the head is about .025 thinner than the brass one but should work all the same I ordered longer ones because of the material I went with and my shafts had some wear on them
McMaster carr
Rulon LR Sleeve Bearing for 5/8" Shaft Diameter, 7/8" OD, 1" Length part# 6362k156 $7.17ea
Rulon LR Sleeve Bearing for 5/8" Shaft Diameter, 7/8" OD, 1" Long, 1" Flange OD
part# 6362k222 $10.31ea
Square-Profile O-Ring Oil-Resistant Buna-N
part# 4061T23 $8.07 for 50
Made progress tonight got the pass side done.
the bushing in the stock connecting arm needs turned 180 degrees
need to make new idler shaft this week the tip is gone
I the power connectors came in if you don't get the wipers used with the wiring you will need to order the following parts from mouser electronics
2)12084891
2)15324857-B
10)12015284
10)829-12176388-L
does any body have a picture of what the seals should look like for outside body mount for the wipers my just had a bunch of silicone and a spanner nut on it
mine had thick aluminum spacers .around 3/16.i put silicon on them . to seal them. good looking job on your brackets.
Thanks biff,
did it also have silicone around the idler shaft as well
yes. ;D
I might not have been clear. but the idler shafts had spacers too. not as thick.
Do you know what the spacers were made of?
I don't know what my driverside looks like yet maybe it will have them when I rip it apart
aluminum. if you have a way to make them stainless would work good.
Does anybody know if there should be a snap ring or 2 and a washer on the grooves
Mine just had a snap ring. it keeps the shaft in position when you push the wiper arms on.
If you need new bushings or springs for your wiper arms luke can fix you up. ;D
just 1 snap ring I wonder why the have 2 grooves
I dont think it is for a snap ring. i think it has a radias at the bottom. i would say its a path to keep water off the shaft!!!! :-\ also your not going to like the driver side.its a problem child.lol
don't leave me hanging what's so bad with the driver side
The drivers side has a air vent,a dash suport ,airline plus wireing thats all in the way.but its doable.just a pain. ::)i did a littel wright up when i did mine look on page 6.have fun 8)
I didn't realize that was your write up. I had seen that up a few weeks ago you did a good job on them.
I did not get much done tonight
got the idler made out of stainless
got the hole in the bracket drilled in the right location, welded in a 1/2 x 3/4 shoulder screw.
manually moved the motor, ended up with a 34" straight line from start to finish on the arc
going home to see what I had marked on my windshield
If you use ss acorn nuts it gives it nice look. theres a guy on you tube showing how to use delayed wiper switchs off 1980s ford trucks.lot cheaper than aftermarket and smaller to boot.if you want the delay option. ;D
the local hardware store has chrome ones that I used on the wipers I just need to remember to get 2 smaller ones.
but that was the reason I did thread my new idlers instead of the hole and cotter pin.
well 34" looks pretty good do you know what yours sweep is?
34"worked for me.have you opened up the drives side yet LOL. :o
no I looked under the dash last night. I don't know what to think about it yet
I wasn't going to do the driver side until winter but I may start sooner
this weekend it took the driver side about 3 miles of fiddling with before it took of working
do you know if you put the r&m fiberglass front on it you can still use the fresh air duct
Sence i don't know what that is.I haft to say i dont know. ??? are you going to drill and tap for grease fittings. or are the bushings you used run dry? :)if i were you ide do the drivers side now wile everything is fresh in your head.and you will be so happy when it is behind you.i think your going to be impresed with your new wipers. ;D i know i love mine. ;D
The r&m fiberglass Renaissance front end kit, no grease fittings I'm just going to use green marine grease those bushing do not need hardly any thing.
Well I bench ran it last night with the arm on and it looks way to fast in low and high but ran really smooth. I'm going to try to install it tonight and run it at the same time as the driver side air unit to see about the speed. and as far as controls go I'm using a plc and a touch screen to run the wipes and everything else.
this is what my drives interface program is looking like so far
well had a little problem on the first fit up. I will have to cut a 1/4 chamfer on the upper rh corner of the bracket so it will fit the radius on the cutout off the bus.
I was not able to bolt it all the way down because of that but I did get to run them. I'm hoping that is why my stock connecting rod was rubbing a little on the inside rail of the bus, worse case I will have to make a straight connecting rod.
the motor speed was good and had no problem running the wiper.
so the wiper motor I ran was
motor no. e-008-163
assy. no. e-006-213
those numbers where for a paccar and I purchased them on ebay for $35.00 + shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/Windshield-wiper-motor-assemy-Paccar-E-008-163-E-108-010-12v-Peterbilt-New-246-/221474857693?hash=item3390ee22dd&vxp=mtr
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Windshield-wiper-motor-assemy-Paccar-E-008-163-E-108-010-12v-Peterbilt-New-246-/221474857693?hash=item3390ee22dd&vxp=mtr)
when I move the paccar sticker I found another number 14sw60-12v a search result show a early 2000ish Volvo vnl
I will modify the bracket corner and try it again tonight
well it worked. the connecting rod is close to rubbing the bus frame about a 1/16" to 1/8" in one spot a little grinding on the connecting rod will get more
and the door handle rod is about as close. if I rotate the motor down a few degrees that will get more clearance for the motor.
but that rod is leaving as soon as I get my door latch mounted anyway
the motor arm needs to have a 1 3/4 throw with the stock pivot linkage to get you a 34" sweep
Looks like you got a good handle on it.fun job just time consuming. you got most of the enginering out of the way.so the drivers side SHOULD go smother. lol looks like your going to be under 200.00 bucks also. good job."love it when a plan comes together"lol ;D
If work wood just quit getting in the way I could play more.
I do have the drivers side bracket done (by accident) but we are going to be using the bus way to much in the next 6 weeks to start on it.
the drivers side acting up anyway and I don't want to make it worse and not able to leave because I broke it completely right now I just plug the hole in the pass side
and go.
I will post the drawings for the pass side next week when I finish detailing them.
I'll probably jump to my door latch, that way I can just leave the inner panel off and work on it as I have time and can leave when ever I want I just wont have a trim panel for the summer.
should I do a thread on that latch retrofit?
fuse box just showed up for my wipers/door lock. this is a neat little box fully configurable. littlelfuse http://www.littelfuse.com/products/dc-power-distribution-modules/hard-wired-pdm/hwb60.aspx (http://www.littelfuse.com/products/dc-power-distribution-modules/hard-wired-pdm/hwb60.aspx)
I got a breakdown of the factory wiper if anybody needs them